bandit01ws6

iTrader: (3)

Does anyone know what rearends fit under a 1st gen s10? Or where i might be able to find one. Preferably 12 bolt posi at least 3.73.

'JustDreamin'

Hey Boss...

What exactly are you looking for?
There are a number of vendors that can provide a 12-bolt (or 9" Ford or Dana 60) to fit your application, with gears & differential of your choice (locker, clutch type limited slip, gear type limited slip, spool, etc). But they will all set you back fairly big time money (like $2k+). But you'll have exactly what you want and know who put it together (might even have a warranty)

Or are you looking for salvage yard hardware?
If so, I think you can rule out a 12-bolt. I don' think any car that came with a 12 bolt will be narrow enough to fit an S10 without significant modification (I could be wrong here, just the S10 is pretty slim, especially a 2wd).

However, later model S10's (2nd gens starting in like 95 or 96 with 4.3l & 5speed manual) could be had with the 8.5" 10-bolt, which is much stronger than the 7.5" / 7.625" 10-bolt that came in every other S10. They can be had with drum or disk brakes and a variety of rear gear ratios. The "Posi" ones aren't my favorite, because GM uses an Eaton Gov-Loc, which is a POS differential. They're weak, and they require roughly 100 rpm difference in axle speed (which means 1 wheel must be spinning) before the clutch locks up and starts applying power to the non-spinning wheel. Not exactly what I'd call a limited slip, more like a limited spin! Expect to pay $600 to $1000 for a disk brake "posi" 8.5" 10-bolt from most salvage yards. You might manage to find one for less than that, if you shop around. As an FYI: drum brake non-posi rears should be significantly cheaper.

A 2nd alternative would be to go to a Ford Explorer rear. They are available with the 8.8" rear, which is pretty stout, and most run 3.73's, and were available with a limited slip of some kind (don't ask me about it, don't know anything about them). Width wise, they're close to a 4wd, which means they're probably 5" wider than a 2wd rear. They're available with disk brakes too. But you'll need to check the bolt pattern on the axles, because I'm not sure they're the same as on the S10. I know I've seen a web article on this swap, but I have know idea where I saw it. I ruled it out because the available ratios for the 8.8 and the 7.25" IFS diff in the front of the S10 don't match up (which would mean I would be limited to like 2 ratio choices).

Lastly, what width rearend do you need? There are at least 3 widths.
1.) 2wd. 2.) 4wd without ZR2 package, 3.) 4wd With ZR2 Package. The ZR2 is supposed to be 4" wider than the 4wd, which is 4" wider than 2wd. You'll need to figure that one out for yourself.

'JustDreamin'

Bigdeezs

iTrader: (17)

Thanks Justdreamin Thats super useful! Sounds like you've put alot of thought into this.

Insomnya3AM

I found the first option for a friend for $400 off of eBay locally in a matter of hours.. Just look around or find an unsuspecting junkyard owner, it's not impossible at all.

'JustDreamin'

The trick with ebay (or any other parts sourcing website) is that you've got to either make sure they're local to you or factor in the cost of shipping a large heavy item by truck (shipping a rearend from the midwest to the midatlantic would probably cost $150+). Just keep that in mind as you go hunting around.

Also, make sure you fully inspect your rear. You wouldn't want to pick one up from a junkyard only to find out its got a bent axleshaft.

'JustDreamin'

firefighter

Just my opinion here with a little bit of research alot of frustration and some experiance you'll likely never find a 8.5" with discs ever I looked for almost a year and had no sucess most of the wrecking yards have no clue how to identify a rear and anyways it's gonna have the crappy gov-loc with "stock" axels that are debateble on strength. My solution after much thought (I still got a headache) was to get a 8.5" out of a mid '90s Chevy 1500 P/U got one for about $300 (was damaged/I didn't care). I had it narrowed for about $150. I can get the axels for $300 the locker which you would've had to buy anyways for about $550 then I'm gonna change the brakes over from the Blazer rear. It's gonna run me about $1500 over all after gears/bearings and seals. Oh and don't forget the aluminum cover with the preload bolts for the main caps. The rear should be able to take a fair amount of power way more than the 7 5/8" but not as much as a 12 bolt but it's also at least $1000 less.

blazerman

ifno only the s-10 bolt pattern is 5 by 4&3/4 and the explorer is 5by 4&1/2 don`t know if it is help to you.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

Moser Engineering prides itself in quality components made for the high demands of performance racing. Our GM 12 Bolt is no different. Our GM 12 Bolt is the strongest replacement 12 Bolt on the market. The newly cast nodular iron housing unit is a direct replacement rear end for most leaf spring, coil spring and torque arm 12 Bolt General Motors OEM applications. The extremely durable housing unit has giant caps utilizing half inch Allen bolts, and may include a complete differential, perches, and brackets. Consumers also have the choice of axles with pressed on bearings, or OEM style c-clip axles with c-clip retention. The units can be set up for anti-lock brakes and work with many OEM GM brake setups. Utilizing new housing ends adds to the simplicity and ease of installation, which is unparalleled in the industry. Offered are four distinctive setups: Early model Camaros, early model Chevelles, late model Grand Nationals, and late model Camaros.
Pricing Bare 12 Bolt Housing $654
(This is the bare 12 Bolt housing w/ no ears, no brackets. Includes new tubes and ends)

12 Bolt Housing Only $739
(Includes 12 Bolt Housing with mono-leaf or multi-leaf perches installed and new housing ends)

12 Bolt Bolt-In Housing & Axle Package $1,135
(Includes 12 Bolt Housing with perches, new housing ends, M/E Custom Alloy Axles, wheel bearings, wheel studs, retainer plates)

Complete 12 Bolt w/Full Spool $1829
(less brakes) Mono or Multi-Leaf Cars
(Includes 12 bolt Housing, M/E Custom Alloy Axles, wheel bearing, wheel studs, retainer plates, full spool (30 or 33 spline). Pro Street gears, 1350 series pinion yoke, chrome cover and assembly)

*Add for performance Rearend cover $135
* Subtract for 1310 series pinion yoke -$35

Complete 12 Bolt w/Limited Slip (less brakes) $2069
(less brakes) Mono or Multi-Leaf Cars
(Includes 12 Bolt Housing, M/E Custom Alloy Axles, wheel bearing, wheel studs, retainer plates, Eaton or Truetrac Limited Slip (30 spline), Pro Street gears, 1350 series pinion yoke, chrome cover and assembly)

* Add for 33 spline Eaton Posi-Unit $100
* Add for 33 spline Truetrac Limited Slip $65

* Add for Performance Rearend Cover $135
* Subtract for 1310 series pinion yoke -$35

12 Bolt - F-Body and Coil Spring Rear

12 Bolt Housing Only $919
(Includes 12 Bolt Housing with brackets Installed and new housing ends)

12 Bolt Housing & Axle Package $1295
(Includes 12 Bolt Housing with brackets, M/E Custom Alloy Axles, new housing ends, wheel bearings, wheel studs, retainer plates)

Complete 12 Bolt w/Full Spool $2009
(less brakes) Torque Arm Cars & Coil Spring Rears w/ears Includes 12 Bolt Housing, M/E Custom Alloy Axles, wheel bearings, wheel studs, retainer plates, full spool (30 or 33 spline), Pro Street gears, 1350 series pinion yoke, chrome cover and assembly

* Add for Performance Rearend Cover $135
* Add for 4 channel ABS setup $100
* Add for new exciter rings $75
Installed on axles for 4 channel setup
* 3 channel ABS not available
* Subtract for 1310 series pinion yoke -$35

Complete 12 Bolt w/Limited Slip (less brakes) $2249
Torque Arm Cars & coil Spring Rears w/Rears
Includes 12 Bolt Housing, M/E Custom Alloy Axles, wheel bearings, wheel studs, retainer plates, Eaton Posi or Truetrac Limited Slip(30 spline), Pro Street gears, 1350 series pinion yoke, chrome cover and assembly

* Add for 33 spline Eaton Posi-Unit $100
* Add for 33 spline Truetrac Limited Slip $65
* Add for Performace Rearend Cover $135
* Add for 3 channel ABS setup $100
* Add for 4 channel ABS setup $100
* Add for new exciter rings $75
installed on axles for 4 channel setup
* Subtract for 1310 series pinion yoke -$35

Complete 12 Bolt w/C-Clip Axles (less brakes)
Torque arm cars & Coil Springs Rears w/Rears $2121.50

Includes 12 Bolt Housing, M/E Custom Alloy Axles, wheel bearings, wheel studs, retainer plates, Eaton Posi or Truetrac Limited Slip (30 spline), Pro Steet gears, 1350 series pinion yoke, chrome cover and assembly

* Add for Performance Rearend Cover $135
* Add for 3 channel ABS setup $100
* Add for new exciter rings $ 75
installed on axles for 4 channel setup
* Subtract for 1310 series pinion yoke -$35

Your Housing Includes:
8 ea - Housing End T-Bolts 2 ea - Inner Housing Seals 2 ea - 1/8" Shims

You Will Need These Items For Your Install
8 ea - 3/8" - 24 nuts & washers for the housing ends Gear Lube - Approximately 3 quarts Rubber or plastic vent hose/line

**If you are using a Limitied Slip Differential, you will need to add Limited Slip Additive to the fluid. **Other small parts may be needed based on each individual application. Please read furtherunder the particular application that fits your need.


ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Venting
Your M/E Bolt-In housing needs to be vented for proper operation. A hole has been provided in the tube and a 1/4" pipe thread air line fitting has been included. After installing the fitting, run a rubber or plastic line from the fitting to a suitable location on the frame. Allow enough line to compensate for suspension travel. MAKE SURE THE END OF THE HOSE IS HIGHER THAN THE VENT HOLE OR YOU WILL LOSE FLUID.

F-Body 12 Bolt - 1982 to Present Camaro & Firebird
Your new housing has larger tubes than your stock rear. Your stock sway bar mounts will probably not fit the tube. You will need to get muffler clamps made to fit either a 3" OD tube and adapt the sway bars to them or to get aftermarket sway bar adapters

Your new Bolt-In housing does not have the tabs on it for attaching the brake lines. The most common and easiest way to secure the brake lines is with cable ties.

If you purchased your 12 Bolt with a Performance Rear Cover with the load bolts to support the main caps, it may interfere with your panhard bar. If it does, simply grind the head of the load bolt for clearance.

M/E Ring & Pinion Gears Break-In Procedure
A new ring and pinon installed with new bearings will initially generate higher than normal operating temperatures. It is advisable to use whichever of the following break-in procedures that matches your application.

Street
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Drive vehicle approximately 10 miles at normal operating speed. Accelerate and decelerate several times conservatively, then let cool for one hour.

Drag Racing
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Pull to line.

Oval Track
1) With car still on jack stands and rear end filled with proper amount of Non-Synthetic lube, run in forward and reverse for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. **
2) Run several laps at slow to medium speeds; let cool.
3) Run several hot laps; let cool.

**WARNING: OPERATOR MUST REMAIN IN DRIVER'S SEAT AND ALWAYS MAKE SURE FRONT WHEELS ARE BLOCKED AND JACK STANDS ARE SECURED BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS PROCEDURE - NEVER EXCEED 2000 RPM WITH WHEELS OFF GROUND. FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS WARNING COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS DAMAGE, PHYSICAL INJURY, OR DEATH.

OEM Gears vs. Performance Aftermarket Gears
Our high-performance aftermarket gears are the strongest gears available. Made from 8620 grade steel, our ring & pinion gears have been developed for strength. Made for shorter patterns, our gears favor the 'toe' of the gear, which under load the gear pattern moves toward the 'heel' of the gear for strength. Each gear set is marked with a depth for recommended set-up. The marking is figured based on the wear pattern during testing of each particular gear set.

The two primary differences between OEM gears and aftermarket gears are as follows:
OEM gears are not made with as much nickel as aftermarket gears, which in turn does not make them as strong. Conversely, OEM may not be as strong due to the material make-up, but because of the lack of nickel in the product, the gears may be quieter.
The impact value is substantially lower for OEM gears, meaning they WILL NOT be able to handle the demands of excessive horsepower as seen in more advanced drag racing.

There is a trade off. If you do race and have excessive horsepower, you will need an aftermarket gear. But keep in mind, the gears are made for strength and the ability to withstand the demands of racing. If you are using your automobile as both your daily drive AND your race car, can you live with more noise on a day to day basis? You need to decide this prior to purchasing aftermarket gears.

Give me a call, I can sell you a Moser 12 bolt for your S10 at a great price, lower than what is found listed here. Bob