almostfast

01WS6/tamu, so your truck was a 2.2/4l60e like mine then, did it come with that
gauge cluster? or did you put it in there?

I bought one just like that...exactly, and the tach doesnt read right, unless my engine is in a limp mode or something and it wont exceed 4k rpm... does yours read right?

I thought that the LS1's put out a 4-cylinder tach signal... am i mistaken?

BluLS1

iTrader: (5)

has anyone with a blazer been able to find someone to run duals out the back.. it looks kinda tight undernieth mine. its a 2000 2dr lower 4/4.


also with the h3 pan, does it use and windage tray and which on do i use if it does?


and 01WS6/tamu, what did you do about the fuel and regulation? correct me if i'm wrong but did you use the vette filter? and what exactly did you do about adapting the fuel lines to the filter?

Bigdeezs

iTrader: (17)

My Blazer runs duals out the sides, just in front of the rear tires.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

That is the factory cluster the truck came with. It is no longer in their since I basically converted the truck to an 2002 since I installed power windows locks and mirrors. As far as functioning goes I am not sure it is still not running quite yet. I am in the process of trying to adapt a Buick Rainier cluster into the new setup yet. It has a 120MPH speedo and I like the back lighting a lot better. As far as the fuel filter I used the vette filter and then cut the pressure and return supply hoses off where they attach at the fuel rail of an 2001 truck with a 5.3. I used the flexible part and then about two inches of the hard line and then cut off my OEM lines and used compression unions with loctite on the threads. This got the supply and return to the filter taken care of easily and the best part they were free. I then used the russel adaptor and XRP push lock hoses to run up to the fuel rail and for the EVAP connection.

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

i like your supply and return lines, same thing i want to do, just dont have any trucks to rob those hoses off of. As for the starters you were talking about earlier? wont the stock LS1 starter work just fine? or were you talking about older bulkier starters being too big?

Also, i would like to see everyones exhaust setups and how they ran it, i have been debating on about 3-4 different ways to run it and cant make up my mind.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

The stock ls1 starter will clear fine. I just stumbled across what I call a mini mini starter and since I did not have one yet I picked it up. As far as the lines go I'd go run to your local salvage yard and look around. They let me cut mine off and they were free.

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

i know everyone uses truck accessories, or the vette setup, but has anyone here actually tried using the f-body accessories? I hear the P/S pully hits the steering box, which is possible, but does the alternator clear? if the alternator will clear im going to make a new p/s bracket to move it up and then everything should work.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

The alternator is what hits the power steering box it is mounted low on the drivers side. There is somewhere in this thread pictures of a shop who used the f body accessories but the motor had to be installed so high to clear everything that it had terrible driveshaft angles and vibrated like a belly dancer.

Bigdeezs

iTrader: (17)

Im using f-body accessories with my own homemade alternator brackets. Alternator sits up high now.

almostfast

thats exactly how my accessories sit... what did you use for the P/S pump?

I CNC'd my own bracket... worked great...

Bigdeezs

iTrader: (17)

mine is low budget...I just cut up some angle iron and used washers as spacers until the alternator lined up flush.

andrew69_04

iTrader: (148)

i think i would rather waste an hour making my own bracket then spending $600 on a different accessory drive

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

I'm no stranger to making stuff work especially if it means saving a few bucks. That's the first pics I've seen using the f body stuff remounted definitely a neat way to do it. The only reason I wound up using the vet stuff was I had truck accessories and wanted the v6 radiator and lots of fan cooling. The thought of finishing my truck the amount of money I have spent on it. Definitely got expensive quick considering I've been planning it for a year now and working on it for six months.

s10_xtreme

iTrader: (6)

Frank02L

iTrader: (1)

Aaron@Intake Elbows is THE MAN!

BluLS1

iTrader: (5)

i actually thought about runnin it out the side like that but wasn't really sure where to run it out. do you have any problem with your leafs hitting?


do you have any pics of it running up to the fuel rail?

Ls2Sonoma

iTrader: (4)

im in love with those tires

Bigdeezs

iTrader: (17)

Those are 3" pipes and yeah they hit for a lil while until they clearanced themselves (crushed some) I have since switched em out for quieter mufflers and 2.5" pipes (I run dual e-cutouts now) even the 2.5" pipes have clearanced themselves a lil. I still think its the best bet for me...plus it keeps the weight down.

dont really have too many pics under there...was takin em for tire fitment...those tires are wonderful on the street and but only ok at the track (305-45-18 555Rs)

Carshopinc.com

iTrader: (5)

We have a bracket combo to relocate a alternator up high on the passenger side while retaining the rest of the stock accessories... I can do this combo for 400.00 This includes a new alternator brackets and tensioner....all parts are cnc machined and annodized black....

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Why does the cool **** show up after I have broken my piggy bank(h3 oilpan, gm complete front accessory kit, alternator relocation kit for f-bodies) AARGH