s10 ls1ers
02-01-2006, 01:39 PM
#165
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I'm another fellow S-10forum member looking at doing an LS1 swap. It almost seems that the LTx swaps are much easier. I'm just now starting my research and probably won't be in a position to start my project for another year.
Have any of you guys checked out http://slammed98gmc.com/ ? He run's low 10's with his LT1 swap.
Have any of you guys checked out http://slammed98gmc.com/ ? He run's low 10's with his LT1 swap.
02-01-2006, 03:54 PM
#166
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Did you not see any the previous posts about the gawdaful OPTISPARK? Look on slammed website and even he has a vid of the opti taking a dump at the track. How do you figure the LT1 swap is easier than LS1? 
(other than headers...I'll give you that one 
)
(other than headers...I'll give you that one )
02-02-2006, 02:48 AM
#167
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Hey all, Just bought a S10 with a 350 and was thinking about swapping. A buddy of mine has a 6.0 out of a truck he's wanting to sell and I was just wondering what kinda trouble i'd be getting into. Going to go the Carbed route like "LQ9S10", If anyone has exp. would love the info. 
02-02-2006, 08:28 AM
#168
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Originally Posted by SCBUSA
Hey all, Just bought a S10 with a 350 and was thinking about swapping. A buddy of mine has a 6.0 out of a truck he's wanting to sell and I was just wondering what kinda trouble i'd be getting into. Going to go the Carbed route like "LQ9S10", If anyone has exp. would love the info.
The 350 and 6.0l share barely anything in common.
Front accessory drive are completly different (and the 6.0 stuff doesn't fit easily)
Headers / exhaust aren't compatible.
Engine mounts don't interchange.
Transmissions should mate up, but may require some work.
Plus, you've got to set the 6.0 up for a carb, which will probably be $1000+ all by itself.
I'd say leave well enough alone. And if you want more power, build a 383 or a 406 (SBC) or save some money for a Bill Mitchell 427 or 454 small block and make some serious power (and spend some serious $$$$$).
'JustDreamin'
Last edited by 'JustDreamin'; 02-02-2006 at 08:36 AM.
02-02-2006, 12:11 PM
#169
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Thanks for the reply, i might just keep the 350 then. Guess i could find something else to put that 6 liter in. My buddy only wanted a couple hundred for it. Guess i'll get something with more room. ?
02-02-2006, 09:22 PM
#170
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Originally Posted by SCBUSA
Thanks for the reply, i might just keep the 350 then. Guess i could find something else to put that 6 liter in. My buddy only wanted a couple hundred for it. Guess i'll get something with more room. ?
The truck accessories (which would be what you'd find on a 6.0l) are the longest available. For an S10, you really need the C5 accessories, which are the shortest available (and get you about 3" of space, which you need in an S10 v8 conversion).
'JustDreamin'
02-12-2006, 08:46 PM
#172
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Originally Posted by ZZ4Blazer
Good luck finding an 8.5" from a newer S-series. I too was looking to upgrade from the 7.5". While mine did last very long, I started looking for the 8.5" to upgrade. I looked for a few months, with every junk yard around telling me they had one, or could get me one within a few days.
Not one of them found me a rear end that was an 8.5". I even had to have my money refunded on various occations. NO yard I've ever found, knows how to identify an 8.5" in an S-10, from the 7 1/2 or 7 5/8" rears. Maybe its just the hillbillies around me.
I did end up finding one. Was looking for a timing chain cover for one of my work vans, and a yard in the area had a new one for whatever reason. Figured since I was there, Id see if they had one. Looked though many trucks, and was about to give up, when the guy said he had one more newer rear end that he just pulled out the other day. Was just laying in a pile with a bunch of others. Turns out, it was a 2wd 8.5" rear end. They obviously didnt know what they had, cause they let it go for like $300, including the 3rd shock/hop shock bracket and hop shock still attached.
They usually go for $600+. Stock they aren't bulletproof. Id recommend a good posi, and a new pinion yoke. Common for both to break. I've got less than a thousand in mine, w/ new 3.90 gears, eaton posi, bearings, seals, and billet 1350 yoke. Added an aluminum stud cover to finish it off as well.
They started in 95 trucks with the HO 4.3 and 5 speeds. They were standard only in these trucks till 97. In 98 they were optioned in about anything, but your most likely to find them in a 4.3 5 speed truck. They aren't standard in any platform truck that I know of now,(standard cabs, extreme's, extreme blazers, etc) but the extremely wide ZR2 offroad trucks.
You should be able to run the LSx based motor with an older style tranny. I beleive all you need is a spacer for the flexplate or crank. I don't remember exactly where the spacer is used. This would allow the guy with the bravada to keep his current tranny, provided the computer was programmed to run it and the T case with the LS1.
That should allow you to run pretty much any pre-98 GM auto tranny.
I've seen it advised against drilling the LSX block for the missing tranny bellhousing bolt, as I've heard you will hit the piston. I dont see a problem not using just that one tranny bolt. I've seen plenty of guys running 3 speed autos in drag racing applications without problems.
Sorry for the novel, just wanted to clarify some stuff.
Not one of them found me a rear end that was an 8.5". I even had to have my money refunded on various occations. NO yard I've ever found, knows how to identify an 8.5" in an S-10, from the 7 1/2 or 7 5/8" rears. Maybe its just the hillbillies around me.
I did end up finding one. Was looking for a timing chain cover for one of my work vans, and a yard in the area had a new one for whatever reason. Figured since I was there, Id see if they had one. Looked though many trucks, and was about to give up, when the guy said he had one more newer rear end that he just pulled out the other day. Was just laying in a pile with a bunch of others. Turns out, it was a 2wd 8.5" rear end. They obviously didnt know what they had, cause they let it go for like $300, including the 3rd shock/hop shock bracket and hop shock still attached.
They usually go for $600+. Stock they aren't bulletproof. Id recommend a good posi, and a new pinion yoke. Common for both to break. I've got less than a thousand in mine, w/ new 3.90 gears, eaton posi, bearings, seals, and billet 1350 yoke. Added an aluminum stud cover to finish it off as well.
They started in 95 trucks with the HO 4.3 and 5 speeds. They were standard only in these trucks till 97. In 98 they were optioned in about anything, but your most likely to find them in a 4.3 5 speed truck. They aren't standard in any platform truck that I know of now,(standard cabs, extreme's, extreme blazers, etc) but the extremely wide ZR2 offroad trucks.
You should be able to run the LSx based motor with an older style tranny. I beleive all you need is a spacer for the flexplate or crank. I don't remember exactly where the spacer is used. This would allow the guy with the bravada to keep his current tranny, provided the computer was programmed to run it and the T case with the LS1.
That should allow you to run pretty much any pre-98 GM auto tranny.
I've seen it advised against drilling the LSX block for the missing tranny bellhousing bolt, as I've heard you will hit the piston. I dont see a problem not using just that one tranny bolt. I've seen plenty of guys running 3 speed autos in drag racing applications without problems.
Sorry for the novel, just wanted to clarify some stuff.
02-12-2006, 08:49 PM
#173
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Originally Posted by ZZ4Blazer
I know, even more so for the price. I really wanted to find an 8.5". Im also running a 6 speed, and eventually will be putting some decent power down through it. I was running a mini spool for a while, and ended up sheering it in half on a 1-2 shift.
Theres a guy on ebay thats frequently got them, but he's out of florida, and I wasn't paying to ship a rear all the way up to ohio.
BTW, for those that are still shooting to find one, I took some comparison pictures between my 7.5 and 8.5" to identify it.
Hope it helps out some.
http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showt...threadid=42856
Theres a guy on ebay thats frequently got them, but he's out of florida, and I wasn't paying to ship a rear all the way up to ohio.
BTW, for those that are still shooting to find one, I took some comparison pictures between my 7.5 and 8.5" to identify it.
Hope it helps out some.
http://www.blazinlow.com/forum/showt...threadid=42856
02-12-2006, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by XtremeDime
this one guy a 97 blazer didnt do anything except relocate the alt and everything is fine. and 1baddime i pretty much listed everything major u said already. im expecting all the hoses put that stuff is pretty cheap relative to everything else. painless makes a harness for around 550 and this other company specializes in s10 swaps. im not getting traction bars until i need em and my stock trans will hold up fine to a stock ls1. and i was listing the basic ls1 swap stuff, im not doing a high power engine yet, im saving up and gonna do all the stuff needed later on. thanks for all the help. ps. s10warehouse doesnt ship to alaska.
02-12-2006, 09:55 PM
#176
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You would think that with as many of these swaps that are going on someone would make a good set of 1 3/4 lt headers.Maybe we should forward these threads to some of the header manufacturers.Thats my biggest hold up on this swap.
02-13-2006, 03:29 PM
#177
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Seconded or at the very minimum 1 5/8s primary headers JEEBUS! This post has almost 5000 views theres obviously a buttload of interest in the S10 LS1...more than most other swaps it would seem.
Originally Posted by Jake the SSnake
You would think that with as many of these swaps that are going on someone would make a good set of 1 3/4 lt headers.Maybe we should forward these threads to some of the header manufacturers.Thats my biggest hold up on this swap.
02-14-2006, 06:08 AM
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I agree...they need to make a good set of headers....cause these factory manifolds dont look too hot shoved in there. I just got my motor in over last weekend and all the nice shiny aluminum....then the dull manifold. I know i can paint it (with less than liked results in past tries) or go other routes...but nothing looks better than a nice set of coated headers....or even polished. But until someone comes out with a header that is better then the stock manifold...so I and all of us wait.
02-14-2006, 06:33 AM
#180
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Problem is, a good set of long tube, or medium length headers with thick flanges, good steel, etc., usually cost around $850 uncoated.
Although several people talk about it, when the time comes, few seem actually interested in spending the money. I have considered a few times making a set of headers and then sending them out to have a company build a jig to make more sets, but it gets to be kind of costly, and recouping that money requires either selling a whole lot, or selling enough at a fairly stiff price.
Although several people talk about it, when the time comes, few seem actually interested in spending the money. I have considered a few times making a set of headers and then sending them out to have a company build a jig to make more sets, but it gets to be kind of costly, and recouping that money requires either selling a whole lot, or selling enough at a fairly stiff price.