My LS1 240sx Swap
04-02-2006, 03:21 PM
#22
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Yeah I am having so much fun working on it. its so time consuming, I'm living life as a hermit right now to finish the car by May 13th which is when the first big car meet starts. So far I have the whole interior in, dash, carpet, seats, simpson harnesses, painted roll cage... I made the mounts already but still need to make a trans mount. As for the engine, I ran into my first snag. I bought a 98 dropout that had the trans split and was handed a harness and PCM. The harness is a 99, engine is a 98 and I have clue what year the pcm is. Anybody know how to convert a 99 to 98 or am I just better off buying a 98 harness? Thanks guys I love the comments!
-Alex - P.S. Pics tonight!
-Alex - P.S. Pics tonight!
04-06-2006, 01:27 PM
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does your PCM fit into the '99 harness? if so, youre golden!
if your PCM doesnt fit, you might have a '98 PCM and they are very easily id'd because they have different outside features.. heat sinks, shape, etc. I had a '98 PCM and a '99 harness, sent both to Speartech and while he modified my harness to work with the RX7, he traded me ($25) a '99 PCM for my '98 PCM. he also updated a few connectors on the '99 harness to be able to use the '98 motor (different oil pressure and water temp sending units on the '98). you'd be better off using that '99 harness and "moving up" to a '99+ PCM. why? because the '98 PCM is unique and harder to replace and harder to find someone to tune it. you can always buy a '99+ truck PCM for cheap ($50) and have it reflashed to a Fbody program for cheap ($50), then have it reprogrammed for whatever mods, vats bypass, reline increase and emissions deletions you are going to need for your swap.
good luck on the project, youre making great progress!
if your PCM doesnt fit, you might have a '98 PCM and they are very easily id'd because they have different outside features.. heat sinks, shape, etc. I had a '98 PCM and a '99 harness, sent both to Speartech and while he modified my harness to work with the RX7, he traded me ($25) a '99 PCM for my '98 PCM. he also updated a few connectors on the '99 harness to be able to use the '98 motor (different oil pressure and water temp sending units on the '98). you'd be better off using that '99 harness and "moving up" to a '99+ PCM. why? because the '98 PCM is unique and harder to replace and harder to find someone to tune it. you can always buy a '99+ truck PCM for cheap ($50) and have it reflashed to a Fbody program for cheap ($50), then have it reprogrammed for whatever mods, vats bypass, reline increase and emissions deletions you are going to need for your swap.
good luck on the project, youre making great progress!
04-07-2006, 12:49 AM
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I've been working on the car like crazy. Living a hermit life and all just so I can finish the car for a local meet/show. Here are some pics:
Primered cage - What a bitch to paint
Painted cage - Gonna need some spray cans because I could not get my hvlp gun in between the rear quarter glass and the rear bars.
Plumbing the WHOLE fuel system with -6An hose and fittings with a Corvette filter.
Neat looking eh? thats what 170 bucks worth of fittings and hoses will do.
Interior is all done! Dash, carpet, seats, cage and Simpson 4 point harnesses are all in. The gauge cluster is out until I get my 180 MPH speedo and glove box it out until I finish wiring.
And what everyone has been wanting to see, some engine pics:
I just laid down the wiring harness, I won't be able to use it though because I found out its for the wrong year. Its either change harnesses to buy a bunch of updated sensors for that year harness to make it work. Its a big mess under there but it will be all cleaned up and neat and then some Corvette Fuel rail covers are going over the top to set it off. So I am going to get a 98 Harness because I have a 98 PCM and engine.
You guys won't believe what I had to do to make this universal clutch master to fit. I had to weld a plate on the back side of the clutch pedal assembly then weld bolts that go through the firewal to hold on the master. Took me a good 4 hours.
Custom engine mount I made for both sides. It will all be painted when I pull the Xmember back out.
Overall look of the car:
I should have it running by 2 weeks and then I will be buttoning it up for the meet and then it goes back into my shop to get a fresh new coat of paint. I can't wait to drive this thing, no one will have a clue. I will be driving down the road and everyone will say "I hear a Vette/Fbody... where's it at? All I see is this silly Ricer". I am so geeked, hopefully everything goes well and I can get it running soon. Next season its a narrowed Ford 9" out back and a procharger in the front. With that setup I should be low 10's. A bone stock LS1 in a 240 will get me into the 11's Drivetrain allowing, and I'm not worried about traction because its RWD hope you guys enjoy I'll keep you guys posted
-Alex
Primered cage - What a bitch to paint
Painted cage - Gonna need some spray cans because I could not get my hvlp gun in between the rear quarter glass and the rear bars.
Plumbing the WHOLE fuel system with -6An hose and fittings with a Corvette filter.
Neat looking eh? thats what 170 bucks worth of fittings and hoses will do.
Interior is all done! Dash, carpet, seats, cage and Simpson 4 point harnesses are all in. The gauge cluster is out until I get my 180 MPH speedo and glove box it out until I finish wiring.
And what everyone has been wanting to see, some engine pics:
I just laid down the wiring harness, I won't be able to use it though because I found out its for the wrong year. Its either change harnesses to buy a bunch of updated sensors for that year harness to make it work. Its a big mess under there but it will be all cleaned up and neat and then some Corvette Fuel rail covers are going over the top to set it off. So I am going to get a 98 Harness because I have a 98 PCM and engine.
You guys won't believe what I had to do to make this universal clutch master to fit. I had to weld a plate on the back side of the clutch pedal assembly then weld bolts that go through the firewal to hold on the master. Took me a good 4 hours.
Custom engine mount I made for both sides. It will all be painted when I pull the Xmember back out.
Overall look of the car:
I should have it running by 2 weeks and then I will be buttoning it up for the meet and then it goes back into my shop to get a fresh new coat of paint. I can't wait to drive this thing, no one will have a clue. I will be driving down the road and everyone will say "I hear a Vette/Fbody... where's it at? All I see is this silly Ricer". I am so geeked, hopefully everything goes well and I can get it running soon. Next season its a narrowed Ford 9" out back and a procharger in the front. With that setup I should be low 10's. A bone stock LS1 in a 240 will get me into the 11's Drivetrain allowing, and I'm not worried about traction because its RWD hope you guys enjoy I'll keep you guys posted
-Alex
04-07-2006, 02:09 AM
#26
alex, that's sick. You're flat hauling *** on that conversion, it's gonna be a rocket when it's done. Wish I didnt have to restore my camaro while I swapped it, it'd be on the road 6 months ago...
best of luck, keep up the pics and be sure to have someone shoot a vid the first time you drive it under GenIII power..
best of luck, keep up the pics and be sure to have someone shoot a vid the first time you drive it under GenIII power..
04-09-2006, 03:29 PM
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thats badass dude. for some reason i thougth you had a s14, but none the less badass.
some bad news for you though, my car works minus a clutch line i cant figure out
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...30#post4586830
so youll have to settle for 2nd ls13 in the country
but mad props, you did all the work on yours i just had to bolt stuff in and didnt have to do 1/2 the pioneering you did. but that looks totally badass, and major props for doing everything yourself, looking forward to seeing it, bring it to FD chicago or new jersey maybe we can check each others cars out.
some bad news for you though, my car works minus a clutch line i cant figure out
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...30#post4586830
so youll have to settle for 2nd ls13 in the country
but mad props, you did all the work on yours i just had to bolt stuff in and didnt have to do 1/2 the pioneering you did. but that looks totally badass, and major props for doing everything yourself, looking forward to seeing it, bring it to FD chicago or new jersey maybe we can check each others cars out. 
04-11-2006, 10:44 AM
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awesome work, yeah the clutch master setup can be a PITA on some conversions!
man thats so cool to see pics of the ls1 sitting in an s13 chassis!
my s13 is so jealous right now!!!!
glad to see it so close to roadworthy!
man thats so cool to see pics of the ls1 sitting in an s13 chassis!
my s13 is so jealous right now!!!!
glad to see it so close to roadworthy!
04-12-2006, 09:15 AM
#33
Have you figured out what you're going to use for the clutch line and quick disconnect fitting? I just purchased a F-body clutch line and slave cylinder side fitting...is there a fitting that can be put on the side that goes into the master cylinder so I can adapt the line to a -4 AN hose?
04-12-2006, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
And what everyone has been wanting to see, some engine pics:
Thanks!
Ted
04-12-2006, 02:35 PM
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JBA C5 headers.
Ken, I am going to purchase a F body line (I see you already have) and splice it into the new master I have.
Thanks everyone for the great comments!
Ken, I am going to purchase a F body line (I see you already have) and splice it into the new master I have.
Thanks everyone for the great comments!
04-12-2006, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Slo_240sx
JBA C5 headers.
It's looking good man! Thanks for sharing the pics!
Ted
04-12-2006, 06:55 PM
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im using the stock one. pedal feel like any 4th gen or ls1 car is really light, and feels very awkward at 1st.
the guys on www.torquecentral.com i think figured out a cheap way to use AN lines the whole way, or you can mod the quick connect line from GM.
*edit*
the stock thing leaks after a while, isnt strong enough for ls1. get a wilwood 7/8 i think 5.5'' long master (or is that stock) get a 90* fitting to a -4, cut the stock clutchline and use a compression fitting to adapt it to a -4.
the plate adaptor isnt toooooo bad. basically make a 1 7/8 hole in the center, drill 2 holes in it i think 2.75'' apart from center, then weld in 2 bolts ( i used 5/16-18 carriage bolts) at a 45* angle to the original holes and your set, although its a PITA to take on/off. ill post pics of the gay adapter plate you have to amke later, i think z32 CMC might work but i havent had time to mess with it to find out.
alex, what headers did you use exactly? im assuming they are shorties that go above the steering shaft?
the guys on www.torquecentral.com i think figured out a cheap way to use AN lines the whole way, or you can mod the quick connect line from GM.
*edit*
the stock thing leaks after a while, isnt strong enough for ls1. get a wilwood 7/8 i think 5.5'' long master (or is that stock) get a 90* fitting to a -4, cut the stock clutchline and use a compression fitting to adapt it to a -4.
the plate adaptor isnt toooooo bad. basically make a 1 7/8 hole in the center, drill 2 holes in it i think 2.75'' apart from center, then weld in 2 bolts ( i used 5/16-18 carriage bolts) at a 45* angle to the original holes and your set, although its a PITA to take on/off. ill post pics of the gay adapter plate you have to amke later, i think z32 CMC might work but i havent had time to mess with it to find out.
alex, what headers did you use exactly? im assuming they are shorties that go above the steering shaft?
Last edited by mikespeed95; 05-30-2006 at 08:08 PM.
