ok, i have a 1991 240sx with a ls1/t56 swap.

we are using a prototype hinson kit, nissan clutch pedal and master cylinder, t56 slave, with the GM quick connect fitting, into a compression fitting, into a -4, into a -4 stainless braided line, into an adapter to run -4 off the nissan clutch master cylinder.

we are running the line below the master cylinder, there is no point on the line that is higher than the master cylinder, and it goes at a somewhat gradual downward slope to the slave cylinder. we are using a 7/16's to bleed the slave cylinder, and had to make a hole to access the bleeder on teh slave cylinder.

we have manuall pumped and bled the system.

we have used a vacuum pump on the system.

we have gone thru 3 quarts of dot 4 bleeding the system.

we still cannot get any engagement, and that is the only thing keeping the damn thing from driving. we officially gave up last night after messing with it, and other small things all day.

ive searched around, apparently the t56 slave is a royal PITA to bleed for some reason, but what am i missing here, any advice?

im 100% stumped.

ls1/t56 is out of a 02 camaro, the transmission is brand new filled with syncromesh and was put together by joe@t56rebuilds.com, so i know thats not the problem.

we are also using a clutchnet 3 puck sprung hub clutch, with a green pressure plate to allow us to slip the clutch slightly if needed. dont know if that helps any but i want to give as much information as possible.

im 100% sure its user error on my part, or something small i totally overlooked. id really like to get my car out and driving, and we need to get it to events. any help woudl be awesomely appreciated, as i need to get it driving tomorrow as i have to take it apart again and send some stuff out for mass production tuesday.

 

maybe the nissan master cylinder might not be up to the task.......has anybody else had success using it?

 

im not sure. this is the 1st s13 chassis 240 in the country to have a ls1 driving, there is one under construction (and being built very well i might add) but AFAIK im the only one doing it. the pedal just falls straight to the floor every time, wont build pressure.

 

Did you gravity bleed it first?
Just open the bleeder, top off the master, and wait until you have steady fluid coming out of it.
What sounds strange to me is the LS1 uses a hydraulic throw out bearing, not a slave, and the bleeder screw on it is 11mm, not 7/16". Plus there is an access hole in the bellhousing just above where the quick connect fitting goes.

Tyler

 

might be TOB, i thought it was a slave, im coming from nissan stuff where it has a fork and a slave.

so just take off hte quick connect, let it drain, then bleed the TOB from that point?

i will also note to use a proper 11mm socket next time. the 7/16 did seem to work though. thanks for the input/help.

 

Leave the quick connect together, and just open the bleeder until fluid is steady. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master.

Tyler

 

well...thats exactly what we've been doing....

 

i just bled mine like 5 days ago...the master was already bled, slave was bone dry.. with everything in the car and hooked up... this is what i did..

got under the car, cracked the bleeder open with a 7/16 socket..

friend steped on the clutch.. held it in,..let fluid come out.. when it stoped.. i closed the slave... he left off the clutch..

we repeated this 3 times... and the clutch was bled perfectly..

are you using the updated version of the slave? did you do the drill mod on the master? the fluid takes a little bit longer to get through the master without the drill mod being done.

 

you said it always goes straight to the floor.. that implies to me atleast, thatyou probly have air in the master..

take the master cyl off, and bench-bleed it.. you probably have an air bubble... then see if it helps.


btw, i got this in my conversion.. its badass for clutch bleeding:
http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?a...lutch+bleeder&

what it is is a line that screws into the bleeder screw hole (a very nice line).
at the end is a fitting with a speedbleeder/solobleeder... (brake bleeder screw with a one way valve)

you put it into the slave, secure the line with the supplied clamp.. to bleed, just crack the screw, and pump the pedal. fluid/air goes out... but nothing can come back in.

keep the reservoir full, keep pumping, and all air will eventually come out.. its badass (IMO)

 

One big problem.... The Nissan clutch master is too small. I had to buy a Tilton 3/4" bore x 1" stroke because the factory master won't push enough fluid. I had to remove the pedal and weld 2 small plates where theres an empty space. Then I welded two long bolts to it that would reclock the master, then I drilled 2 holes (2.25 spacing, 12 and 6 o'clock clocking) and put the pedal back through bolting the master to the new bolts. Heres a pic I should have mine running this weekend. -Alex

 

yeah i need to find a master like that. i think im gonna go to the dirt track store tomorrow and just buy and aftermarket pedal/master.

we DID however get it to where the clutch woudl engage though, and drove it around today.

any gear <4 from a 20 punch with NO clutchkick is INSTANT rev limiter. it is SCARY fast.