LS1 S14 240sx Swap
#81
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Any updates on the progress? Been following this thread from the start, the entire build is amazing. I have 1 question though. Since i have never owned an ls1 im not sure of. I know people say it is very hard to do cams/heads with an ls1 in the car in a fbody. But with the ls1 in the 240 it doesn't look this this would be a problem. So with the s14 would i be able to do heads and cam's to the ls1 without pulling the motor? or would i be better off doing it before i put it in the car. Only reason im asking is saving up funds for the swap, and head's and cam adds another 2k+ to the swap. Thanks again.
#82
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HEY HEY HEY...well I can answer you questions...you DON'T have to remove the engine in a F-body to swap the heads or cam. You do have to remove the radiator and some other componets. It does take about 6 hrs your first time. So in a s14....I could almost PROMISE you DON'T have to remove the motor to swap the heads and cam. And would probably be about a 4hr swap. Depending on your background as a mechanic. By the way....welcome to the dirty world of ls1...where a decent head/cam package and tune will put over 400rwhp to the pavement......hope your ready
#84
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some swap cars (rx7, etc) the brake booster is in the way to remove the driver side head, especially if you install headstuds.
but its pretty easy stuff with the LS1 in the car, but always a back breaker if you arent hurrying up!
but its pretty easy stuff with the LS1 in the car, but always a back breaker if you arent hurrying up!
#85
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Originally Posted by mikespeed95
do everything before you put it in, a lot easier.
My car is now on the road! pics and Vids soon!!
-Alex
#87
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Unibody regidity and rear over fenders:
Not that they are necessary, but my 98 s14 looks like it was gang raped by a gang of grocery carts on both of the rear quarter panels. I was thinking that cutting most of the steel out and using some 3m panel adhesive would be a quick cheap way of taking care of the body work, all while making wider tires a little easier, and reducing weight a little. They are kindo ugly, but that doesn't bother me too much. My only problem is that I fear they may reduce the ridgity of the uni body structure. I'm going to have a pretty serious cage in the rear of the car. Maybe I shoudn't worry about it? Thoughts?
ONE OF MY FAVORITES 315/35/17 W/O FENDER ROLL:
Not that they are necessary, but my 98 s14 looks like it was gang raped by a gang of grocery carts on both of the rear quarter panels. I was thinking that cutting most of the steel out and using some 3m panel adhesive would be a quick cheap way of taking care of the body work, all while making wider tires a little easier, and reducing weight a little. They are kindo ugly, but that doesn't bother me too much. My only problem is that I fear they may reduce the ridgity of the uni body structure. I'm going to have a pretty serious cage in the rear of the car. Maybe I shoudn't worry about it? Thoughts?
ONE OF MY FAVORITES 315/35/17 W/O FENDER ROLL:
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/SicBastard/3153517nofenderroll.jpg)
#89
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on my FC RX7 that I put rear overfenders onto, I cut and rewelded the sheetmetal around the top edge of the wheel well to give the extra clearance for wider rear tires. if you do that rewelding then you wont have any different strength put back than a stock vehicle has, I wouldnt worry about it.
WOW thats some big *** tires on a 240sx.... WOW.
that looks SO sick, but it has to rub, doesnt it? damn its so close to the fender lip! but amazing fitment, just the perfect width and offset. SICK!
WOW thats some big *** tires on a 240sx.... WOW.
that looks SO sick, but it has to rub, doesnt it? damn its so close to the fender lip! but amazing fitment, just the perfect width and offset. SICK!
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#91
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Originally Posted by GIGAPUNK
Unibody regidity and rear over fenders:
Not that they are necessary, but my 98 s14 looks like it was gang raped by a gang of grocery carts on both of the rear quarter panels. I was thinking that cutting most of the steel out and using some 3m panel adhesive would be a quick cheap way of taking care of the body work, all while making wider tires a little easier, and reducing weight a little. They are kindo ugly, but that doesn't bother me too much. My only problem is that I fear they may reduce the ridgity of the uni body structure. I'm going to have a pretty serious cage in the rear of the car. Maybe I shoudn't worry about it? Thoughts?
ONE OF MY FAVORITES 315/35/17 W/O FENDER ROLL:
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/SicBastard/3153517nofenderroll.jpg)
Not that they are necessary, but my 98 s14 looks like it was gang raped by a gang of grocery carts on both of the rear quarter panels. I was thinking that cutting most of the steel out and using some 3m panel adhesive would be a quick cheap way of taking care of the body work, all while making wider tires a little easier, and reducing weight a little. They are kindo ugly, but that doesn't bother me too much. My only problem is that I fear they may reduce the ridgity of the uni body structure. I'm going to have a pretty serious cage in the rear of the car. Maybe I shoudn't worry about it? Thoughts?
ONE OF MY FAVORITES 315/35/17 W/O FENDER ROLL:
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/SicBastard/3153517nofenderroll.jpg)
#97
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I was kidding with the "I hope."
I'm the hardest working, deepest searching **** around.
I don't guess...
265 35 18 rear + 30 on a 10.5:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...ar30ona105.jpg
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/SicBastard/2653518rear30ona105.jpg)
17x10 +25 rear, 17x9 +35 w20mm spacers in front
plus15 effective offset 235 45 F, 255 45 R:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...cersinfron.jpg
I'm the hardest working, deepest searching **** around.
I don't guess...
265 35 18 rear + 30 on a 10.5:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...ar30ona105.jpg
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/SicBastard/2653518rear30ona105.jpg)
17x10 +25 rear, 17x9 +35 w20mm spacers in front
plus15 effective offset 235 45 F, 255 45 R:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...cersinfron.jpg
![](http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/SicBastard/17x1025rear17x935w20mmspacersinfron.jpg)
#98
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Originally Posted by GIGAPUNK
I'm ordering 10.5"X17" +27 Halibrands so I hope not!
![Hail](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_hail.gif)
Definately keep us updated! Looking through zilvia/240sxforums/nico/every other one I never really got concrete proof on fitments with wider tires+rims. Everywhere I looked just yeilded pics of 10" wheels with 225-45 tires stretched beyond safe.
#99
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Dam drifters and there 225's. I have a buddy that had an s13. He had 17x9 +27's in the back with 275/40/17's on the car. Rolled the fender, no suspension mods needed. I never had bigger then 245's on my s14 though. The sr never needed much bigger. Im hopping for 275/55/15 Mt et streets on draglites with the ls1. If you have anyquestions about rim or fitment issues Enjukuracing out of florida have been building 240's for years. They should be able to help with any rim/tire fitment issues you may have.