Modyfied Oil pan Pics(LS1)
#2
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I'm pretty sure you can get away with a stock LS1 pan...(is the underhood different on a 69 then 70-72?) It places your passenger side cylinder head about 1/4-3/4 of an inch from the firewall.
-Matt
-Matt
#3
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no the frames should be the same in general. i was going to use a stock pan on mine before i switched to a dry sump setup. i think you only have to do is make you own mounts or find the right aftermarket pieces to move the mount back some. but otherwise you should be able to use the stock LS1 pan.
#4
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Oil Pan and Chevelle
I have tried a few thing. Right now I am using a CTS-V oil pan, search for "CTS-V Pan". I have a post and a few pic's..
Let me know if you want more info..
the lower slump is shorter(front to back) and works good with the exception of that it hangs about 1" or so below the x-member, ok if you not lowering your car to the ground. It is also lighter in weight.
Brian
Let me know if you want more info..
the lower slump is shorter(front to back) and works good with the exception of that it hangs about 1" or so below the x-member, ok if you not lowering your car to the ground. It is also lighter in weight.
Brian
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After some measuring on the engine and the crossmember I think it will work with the stock pan.. I think I must turn the mounts on the xmember180 degrees and raise them ca 1/2" up maybe, and use the brp motormount adapters and sbc motormounts .hopefully the generator will clear the steering box..
#6
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that is what I did for the Frame mount. swap left to right and right to left.
I also used Energy Supension engine mount that they call Tall and narrow and narrowed my frame mount 1/2" and used washer to jack the engine back and forward to center it in the engine bay. The two area of contact are the Alternator pulley / steering box along and the firewall/AC box.
the tall and narrow mount are about 1/4 - 1/2" taller if you use the plate that comes with it. you don't need to use the load plate cause the S&P or BRP adapter plates will act as the load plate anyway. I tried both tall and narrow and standard mounts with a combination of plates to get it to fit and be centered with giving me the most room.
I also used Energy Supension engine mount that they call Tall and narrow and narrowed my frame mount 1/2" and used washer to jack the engine back and forward to center it in the engine bay. The two area of contact are the Alternator pulley / steering box along and the firewall/AC box.
the tall and narrow mount are about 1/4 - 1/2" taller if you use the plate that comes with it. you don't need to use the load plate cause the S&P or BRP adapter plates will act as the load plate anyway. I tried both tall and narrow and standard mounts with a combination of plates to get it to fit and be centered with giving me the most room.
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#9
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Any tips for welding them ??
I had mine welded once, then had to machine the damn thing flat again as it had warped badly.
Pics here
http://gallery112848.fotopic.net/p10290774.html
http://gallery112848.fotopic.net/p10290775.html
I was having some further welding done yesterday, to add a -8 fitting for an oil return to the side near the top, and the bloody thing has warped again, this time I believe its scrap, as no way will I be able to machine it again.
How do you weld them without warping ??
Next time I will be bolting the pan to a block first, although I am considering a Canton custom oil pan.
I had mine welded once, then had to machine the damn thing flat again as it had warped badly.
Pics here
http://gallery112848.fotopic.net/p10290774.html
http://gallery112848.fotopic.net/p10290775.html
I was having some further welding done yesterday, to add a -8 fitting for an oil return to the side near the top, and the bloody thing has warped again, this time I believe its scrap, as no way will I be able to machine it again.
How do you weld them without warping ??
Next time I will be bolting the pan to a block first, although I am considering a Canton custom oil pan.
#10
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Did your welder preheat the entire pan before welding? Bolting it to a block (or anything flat) is definitely a good idea.
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
How do you weld them without warping ??
#11
9 Second Club
Cant say for sure. I'll find out more later, as Ive only got the news about it warping again a couple of hours ago.
I would say that if it was heated, it wouldnt be much. So probably no.
I would say that if it was heated, it wouldnt be much. So probably no.
#12
9 Second Club
Well, it was wapred pretty bad. It will bolt up flat, but is under some stress. I placed a spacer under it then bolted it up, to attempt to straighten it, and it cracked.
This is the profile I need, and is my latest oil pan that Ive cut up ready for welding.
This is the profile I need, and is my latest oil pan that Ive cut up ready for welding.