LSx into '67-'69 Camaro, the basics
04-08-2008, 06:38 PM
#122
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cumming, GA
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have not really used or tried the 93-97 brakes because of the style of rear E-brake. They run an E-brake that is built into the caliper and it just not the most reliable set to me. I like the 98+ that are like the C4 rear brakes that have a built in drum E-brake that’s easy to adapt to older cars. The 98+ is 12in front and rear rotors with twin piston in the front and single piston aluminum calipers.
It keeps your Camaro all GM so maintenance is as easy as going to a parts store for maintenance parts like pads. These are great brakes that cost considerable less then any aftermarket kit and is GM quality that’s show quality looks. .
It keeps your Camaro all GM so maintenance is as easy as going to a parts store for maintenance parts like pads. These are great brakes that cost considerable less then any aftermarket kit and is GM quality that’s show quality looks. .
04-09-2008, 05:32 PM
#124
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cumming, GA
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On the rear brakes its not how it operates that I don’t recommend it just heard a lot of bad from the E-brake style on the calipers. I just have never run the 93-97 brakes on any car so I really can tell you if they will work. The 98+ brakes are all around better brakes then the LT1 style and still can be bought for a steal off ebay or salvage yards.
04-10-2008, 02:46 PM
#126
FormerVendor
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cumming, GA
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is some pics of the kit on a first gen its similar the second like you have just a different length in the shock bar. I have both a weld in and a bolt in version of the shock bar as well
The mounting plates are cad coated and is a solid piece of steel that has been bent to specs for the strongest mount possible. Just Bolt on the new BRP shock plate just like the stock unit except it has the new mounting location for the lower shock mount and mounting tab for the 4th gen -98-02 E brake cable.
For the shocks use
11in retracted & 18in extended with a ½ in variance
We recommend the QA1 shocks part number 122-sts1578PXS. However any shock you choose this length will work as long as it’s the stated length
This gets you room more tires and disc brake calipers as well as reducing wheel hop
Just let me know if you or anyone else has any questions
Thanks
Phil
The mounting plates are cad coated and is a solid piece of steel that has been bent to specs for the strongest mount possible. Just Bolt on the new BRP shock plate just like the stock unit except it has the new mounting location for the lower shock mount and mounting tab for the 4th gen -98-02 E brake cable.
For the shocks use
11in retracted & 18in extended with a ½ in variance
We recommend the QA1 shocks part number 122-sts1578PXS. However any shock you choose this length will work as long as it’s the stated length
This gets you room more tires and disc brake calipers as well as reducing wheel hop
Just let me know if you or anyone else has any questions
Thanks
Phil
05-02-2008, 07:25 PM
#127
Teching In
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just got a great deal on an LQ4 and 4L80E to put in my `69. I`ve found a trans. crossmember to work with this trans., but have`nt seen anything about how well it fits in the car or if I have to do any hammering on the tunnel, etc. If anyone has any knowledge on this trans. in this car I would greatly appreciate the help.
05-03-2008, 09:49 PM
#128
I just got a great deal on an LQ4 and 4L80E to put in my `69. I`ve found a trans. crossmember to work with this trans., but have`nt seen anything about how well it fits in the car or if I have to do any hammering on the tunnel, etc. If anyone has any knowledge on this trans. in this car I would greatly appreciate the help.
05-19-2008, 03:44 AM
#131
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Germany
Posts: 277
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1. So will the LS2 corvette ex manifolds fit?
2. Are there any template brackets out there for LSx truck a/c relocation...cheap (don't want to replace w/p etc..)? How have other folks solved the problem?
2. Are there any template brackets out there for LSx truck a/c relocation...cheap (don't want to replace w/p etc..)? How have other folks solved the problem?
05-28-2008, 06:29 PM
#133
Teching In
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
AC using the LS1 on 68 Firebird I am putting a LS1 in a 68 Firebird convertible using the stock A/C compressor. The problem is the pressure hoses going into the compressor will not fit because of the motor mounts.
What did you do with the stock AC? Thanks,
What did you do with the stock AC? Thanks,
05-29-2008, 12:42 AM
#134
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The stock LS1 variable-displacement AC compressor won't work worth a flip with your factory or Vintage Air AC system. Use a Sanden compressor. What engine mounts are you using? I think both BRP and Vintage Air make a bracket to mount a Sanden SD508/SD5H14 to the stock LS1 compressor bracket (intended for use with BRP mounts and a notched frame, might work with an AME subframe, won't work with S&P, ATS, or Hooker mounts).
09-01-2008, 08:17 PM
#135
Teching In
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
[QUOTE=68redcamaro;4450270]I ordered mine as soon as i got back from Sema were they had some on display. They came in at the end on January and i just installed them this weekend in my 1968 Camaro. They fit excellent i think. i have not found any problems yet. They come with collector, gaskets, bolts and O2 extension harness. Here are some pics.... if you need a speical shot just let me know.
[Hello, I sall you post on the SW headers and your LS1 swap. I installed my LS1 this week end and I'm having issues with engine mounts. I'm using the S&P mount, but the engine mount has a very large gap and I would have to tighten the mounting bolt way to much. What combination of motor mount and and engine brackets should I use. there are several different choices. 350-302 or 307-327. I have a tall skinniy engine plate but the motor mount is to wide.
[Hello, I sall you post on the SW headers and your LS1 swap. I installed my LS1 this week end and I'm having issues with engine mounts. I'm using the S&P mount, but the engine mount has a very large gap and I would have to tighten the mounting bolt way to much. What combination of motor mount and and engine brackets should I use. there are several different choices. 350-302 or 307-327. I have a tall skinniy engine plate but the motor mount is to wide.
09-01-2008, 08:56 PM
#136
Teching In
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the hooker headers will fit with the stock steering - be sure to get the adaptor plate - its sold separately. I'd call jegs to make sure they got it. The S&P mounts are tricky! Forget about running solid mounts with the S&Ps, small block and big block don't fit. Use the standard 1969 small block mounts - those will fit. Also on the mounts, don't bother getting the polished you can't see it anyway- I'd use the natural finish -save yourself about $20.
09-20-2008, 07:25 PM
#139
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Villa Rica, GA
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4. Fuel and Plumbing
There are a few different places that offer '67-69 camaro tanks that have been sumped/baffled, with internal LS1 compatible pumps. I welded up my own fuel sump, using a Competition Engineering Universal 3/8" kit, but they're out there.
You can run an in-tank fuel pump setup (quiet and reliable), which means you'll just run the line from that (regulated to 58 psi) to the inlet on the fuel rail. If you've got the cash to dish out for a nice stainless, internal pump unit, go for it. They're available from Rick's Hot Rod Shop. www.rickshotrodshop.com/
Third option is a fuel cell. They simply have feed lines, and mount either in your trunk, sunken, or inside the compartment. They're simple, effective, and cheap. I personally don't want one in my car. With a fuel cell, unless you can find one with an internal pump, you'll have to run an external
Aeromotive offers a complete fuel system that will work with a fuel cell or sumped setup. The part number for the complete Aeromotive EFI fuel system with the A1000 pump is 17125. You'll pay from $1200-1500 for this setup.
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/pdf/17125.pdf
I'm doing the easy way, and running an external Walbro 255 inline fuel pump. Using the original 3/8" return style sender for the stock tank, (available for big-block cars) will work fine. 3/8" (6AN) lines for a n/a engine are plenty, unless you have a HUGE shot of nitrous or boost plans in the future. For an external setup, you'll need to plumb from the tank to a pressure regulator with a return, and the regulated pressure will go to the fuel rail, the return back to the tank. Here's what i'm doing.
You'll need two -6an fittings for the walbro fuel pump if you use it with the -6an hose.
If you dont want to pay for, or don't care about, using rubber hose (rated for EFI, of course,) Just use barbed fittings and hose clamps everywhere, it works, is cheap, and easy..
Simple and effective.. Many say that the external pumps are noisy and unreliable, (My car is so loud, that I really don't care. I dont find it loud at all.) 70LS1 (member and mod) has been running a walbro 255 for 3 years with no problems, this system will work just fine.
A popular Fuel pressure Regulator, (FPR), is from a '99 corvette, which incorporates a return-regulator with a filter, and is disposable and cheap..
like this...
Aeromotive offers a billet adjustable one with -6AN in/outlets that i'll be using.
You will need special fittings to adapt to the 3/8" feed lines and 5/8" return line. They are available from russell performance products.
You will need (2) 3/8" fittings, part number RUS-639210 or RUS-640850. They're for from the tank to regulator, and the line out to the rails.
You will need (1) 5/8" fitting (part number 640860) for the return to the fuel tank from the regulator. Those fittings have -6AN ends, so the rest of the -6AN fuel lines are cake.
You'll also need a simple quick-connect for the fuel rail, too. Looks like this.
Russel part number RUS-640850. Note this has a 3/8 NPT outlet.
There are a few different places that offer '67-69 camaro tanks that have been sumped/baffled, with internal LS1 compatible pumps. I welded up my own fuel sump, using a Competition Engineering Universal 3/8" kit, but they're out there.
You can run an in-tank fuel pump setup (quiet and reliable), which means you'll just run the line from that (regulated to 58 psi) to the inlet on the fuel rail. If you've got the cash to dish out for a nice stainless, internal pump unit, go for it. They're available from Rick's Hot Rod Shop. www.rickshotrodshop.com/
Third option is a fuel cell. They simply have feed lines, and mount either in your trunk, sunken, or inside the compartment. They're simple, effective, and cheap. I personally don't want one in my car. With a fuel cell, unless you can find one with an internal pump, you'll have to run an external
Aeromotive offers a complete fuel system that will work with a fuel cell or sumped setup. The part number for the complete Aeromotive EFI fuel system with the A1000 pump is 17125. You'll pay from $1200-1500 for this setup.
http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/pdf/17125.pdf
I'm doing the easy way, and running an external Walbro 255 inline fuel pump. Using the original 3/8" return style sender for the stock tank, (available for big-block cars) will work fine. 3/8" (6AN) lines for a n/a engine are plenty, unless you have a HUGE shot of nitrous or boost plans in the future. For an external setup, you'll need to plumb from the tank to a pressure regulator with a return, and the regulated pressure will go to the fuel rail, the return back to the tank. Here's what i'm doing.
You'll need two -6an fittings for the walbro fuel pump if you use it with the -6an hose.
If you dont want to pay for, or don't care about, using rubber hose (rated for EFI, of course,) Just use barbed fittings and hose clamps everywhere, it works, is cheap, and easy..
Simple and effective.. Many say that the external pumps are noisy and unreliable, (My car is so loud, that I really don't care. I dont find it loud at all.) 70LS1 (member and mod) has been running a walbro 255 for 3 years with no problems, this system will work just fine.
A popular Fuel pressure Regulator, (FPR), is from a '99 corvette, which incorporates a return-regulator with a filter, and is disposable and cheap..
like this...
Aeromotive offers a billet adjustable one with -6AN in/outlets that i'll be using.
You will need special fittings to adapt to the 3/8" feed lines and 5/8" return line. They are available from russell performance products.
You will need (2) 3/8" fittings, part number RUS-639210 or RUS-640850. They're for from the tank to regulator, and the line out to the rails.
You will need (1) 5/8" fitting (part number 640860) for the return to the fuel tank from the regulator. Those fittings have -6AN ends, so the rest of the -6AN fuel lines are cake.
You'll also need a simple quick-connect for the fuel rail, too. Looks like this.
Russel part number RUS-640850. Note this has a 3/8 NPT outlet.