To Notch Or Not To Notch ???????????
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
To Notch Or Not To Notch ??????????? Guys
I am working on the 68 camaro and was courious as to what most of you have done. Notch the frame and keep the stock configeration and a/c compressor or get the S&P relocation kit that locates the compressor up high?? The S&P kit coust $683.00 for the polished (OUCH). Anyway what do ya think???????????
Thanks,David
I am working on the 68 camaro and was courious as to what most of you have done. Notch the frame and keep the stock configeration and a/c compressor or get the S&P relocation kit that locates the compressor up high?? The S&P kit coust $683.00 for the polished (OUCH). Anyway what do ya think???????????
Thanks,David
I just pulled mine off before the install. If you have to have a/c, you'll probably have to go the S&P route. It was just too much $$ for me at the time. If you're good with a welder you could probably make a pocket for it to fit into, but that was out of the question for me.
chickenman97: Im working on an 87 TA...not the same by any means, but I had to notch for the A/C. I just couldnt see spending hundreds on some brackets to move the A/C compressor. I also didnt want the new compressor or my old one on top of the motor. Ugly if you ask me. Notching is no big deal. Like it was said above...just take your time. You can always take alittle more metal off. I bolted my motor to the crossmember, then slid the compressor straight back. Kind of made a rough mark with a sharpie, and started cutting. Use cardboard to make the "box in" pieces, so you dont have to cut for hours...ask me how I know... 
The metal is thick enough that welding it is really easy. Doesnt take a great machine to do it, and its hard to mess up. Even if you are a beginning welder. Save that $680...buy a cheap welder, a good helmet, practice a few times, then weld that sucker up! YOu will save alittle money most likely, and you can use the welder for other things...and you will find other things. I bought a Clarke MIG and it was cheap, and works great for just about anything Ive had to weld. Just dont mess with the FLUX wire...go right into using the gas and MIG wire. It welds so much easier. Just my opinion. Dont be scared of the welding!
Justin
The metal is thick enough that welding it is really easy. Doesnt take a great machine to do it, and its hard to mess up. Even if you are a beginning welder. Save that $680...buy a cheap welder, a good helmet, practice a few times, then weld that sucker up! YOu will save alittle money most likely, and you can use the welder for other things...and you will find other things. I bought a Clarke MIG and it was cheap, and works great for just about anything Ive had to weld. Just dont mess with the FLUX wire...go right into using the gas and MIG wire. It welds so much easier. Just my opinion. Dont be scared of the welding!Justin
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: childress tx
tonotchornot I have done it both ways and imo if you have any room in your budget go with the relocation kit you will need the sanden 508 either way you go so you are only looking at a difference of 300+- for going this route. If you decide to notch you need to keep in mind what mounts you use will decide how much you have to notch. the lower and further back you want your engine makes the difference between a small notch and a ginormous notch. also do you care if the compressor is out in the open or tucked away out of site you also need to way out with each set up how big of a bitch is it going to be to service the comp. or even change the belt when it goes out.
btw on a first gen if you drop the engine as low as possible which is normally preferable, your notch will have to go all the way out to the frame rail for the comp. to clear at all and it is a very tight fit at best and if by chance you ever have to remove the compressor be ready to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the motor just to get it out. but then again every custom install is one off so this may or may not apply in your case but for sure it will be tight.
btw on a first gen if you drop the engine as low as possible which is normally preferable, your notch will have to go all the way out to the frame rail for the comp. to clear at all and it is a very tight fit at best and if by chance you ever have to remove the compressor be ready to unbolt the motor mounts and lift the motor just to get it out. but then again every custom install is one off so this may or may not apply in your case but for sure it will be tight.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 360
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City metro area
Compressor relocate bracket I called Newman Car Creations and the bracket they have has to be used with thier Corvette system. No luck this time 
. I am going to check on making them myself.
. I am going to check on making them myself. Trending Topics
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Guys
After thinking sbout it I dcided to notch it.I have done quite a bit of welding.It was not that bad. The notch was deceint size because the motor set low. Got the trans cross member in that day. Well,for better or worse,it is done now. Thanks for the replys!!!!
Thanks,David
After thinking sbout it I dcided to notch it.I have done quite a bit of welding.It was not that bad. The notch was deceint size because the motor set low. Got the trans cross member in that day. Well,for better or worse,it is done now. Thanks for the replys!!!!
Thanks,David
pic came out awful.. but I highlighted the edges so you can see the clearance issues. When the ball joint passes in front of the first header tube, it hits on the edge, and it bent the crap out of the nipple on th end. I'm going to have to pack the joint with grease, then put a plug in place of the zerk fitting.
