LS1 FD Iron or not?
LS1 FD Iron or not? So I am thinking again about my LS1 swap into my FD and I cant make up my mind if I should use a iron block or not. My goals are to build a flipped truck manifold single turbo setup. I think the best way to go about it would be get a iron 6.0L and do some forged rods and pistons and run the stock crank. If it will handle my power goals. The big downfall to the iron block is the extra 90lbs. But I wont have a/c, no spare or soundwave. I will be running a 12gallon fuel cell and no interior behind the seats. Also I have a headlight conversion so no headlight motors or anything. So I figure with that weight savings should balance out the 90lbs from the iron block and keep the swaps best side its near perfect weight distribution. Also I would like to do a built 6.0L with around 430whp n/a and then run the single turbo in @14.8psi on 93pump. So I should be making around 675whp on a good tune. And everyone pretty much says if you want over 600whp and some reliability go iron. So what do you guys think. I dont really want to deal with sleeving a aluminum block and all that. Iron seems like the easier route and I will have the better flowing LQ heads to start. I also plan to run a T-56. I also eventually plan on a 9" swap. Once the stock rear diff blows, I dont want to get involved with building the stock rear end it can get pricey. Thanks for the help.
Here are a few shots of the FD.
Here are a few shots of the FD.
nice ride! I'd do aluminum if you're really concerned about the weight. If you're diving into the block and gonna change the rods (and their bolts) and pistons, you should be golden as-is. Then grab some truck heads and bam, you're done. If this is an all out drag machine, I'd do iron.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 310
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It all depends on what you want to do with the car. In addition to the 90 lbs of the block, you'll be adding at least 50-60 lbs of turbo and related hardware.
If it's a street car, I don't know how usable 675 horses are... I'd be sticking with a 402 LS2 aluminum block, n/a.
If you're doing a drag car, then it's a different story.
If it's a street car, I don't know how usable 675 horses are... I'd be sticking with a 402 LS2 aluminum block, n/a.
If you're doing a drag car, then it's a different story.
Alum block can easily handle that power. You will need forged pistons. If you want to make more than 600rwhp reliably plan on forged rods. Eagle rods are fine and are cost effective.
Many turbo guys have found that after making 600rwhp+ the ring seal on the LS1 blocks gets lost requiring a honing and new rings every few thousand hard miles. The solution seems to be an LS2 block and the ring seal problems are no longer an issue. hint hint
An LS2 block, stock crank, Eagle rods, forged pistons and low compression nicely flowing heads with LS6 intake/ported TB will support 1000rwhp. Quite a few people have literally exploded the FAST 90 3 piece intakes and the LS6 supports tons of power anyway more reliably.
As mentioned unless you plan to make this a drag only car put in a 402 stroker LS2 and be done with it. That will run mid 10's easy n/a with a T56 and traction. It will also keep the 50/50 weight balance to retain the great handling. Add a 100-150hp shot and you will be running 9's with traction. Adding 90lbs of iron block and a turbo setup will certainly affect the handling potential vs. n/a and all alum. Engineers would kill for 90lbs off of the front end of a car.
You are going to be pressed for space with a turbo setup in an FD. Best way would be move the engine back in the firewall for more room up front. There is very little room available. Battery in the bins is a must I would imagine. Forced induction LSx/FD is going to be a PITA. Hope your fab skills are good.
Many turbo guys have found that after making 600rwhp+ the ring seal on the LS1 blocks gets lost requiring a honing and new rings every few thousand hard miles. The solution seems to be an LS2 block and the ring seal problems are no longer an issue. hint hint
An LS2 block, stock crank, Eagle rods, forged pistons and low compression nicely flowing heads with LS6 intake/ported TB will support 1000rwhp. Quite a few people have literally exploded the FAST 90 3 piece intakes and the LS6 supports tons of power anyway more reliably.
As mentioned unless you plan to make this a drag only car put in a 402 stroker LS2 and be done with it. That will run mid 10's easy n/a with a T56 and traction. It will also keep the 50/50 weight balance to retain the great handling. Add a 100-150hp shot and you will be running 9's with traction. Adding 90lbs of iron block and a turbo setup will certainly affect the handling potential vs. n/a and all alum. Engineers would kill for 90lbs off of the front end of a car.
You are going to be pressed for space with a turbo setup in an FD. Best way would be move the engine back in the firewall for more room up front. There is very little room available. Battery in the bins is a must I would imagine. Forced induction LSx/FD is going to be a PITA. Hope your fab skills are good.
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edit: Misunderstood what you said there.
I'm interested in seeing a decently fitting turbo LS1 utilizing truck manifolds that fits under the hood in an FD without overheating constantly.
I'm interested in seeing a decently fitting turbo LS1 utilizing truck manifolds that fits under the hood in an FD without overheating constantly.
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Verdad Gallardo If a LS2 aluminum block could handle over 800whp with good forged rods and pistons I will spend the extra and go that route. How much power can I hope for on 93 pump with a big stroked LS2. That would be alot simpler then turbocharging.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 14
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i dont know about the truck manifolds, but hinson super cars has some pretty nice turbo setups, that work. i even got to see their twin turbo ls1 it is a beast, suppose to be over 1000RWHP.
i don't know what you are building the car for or why you want 600+RWHP, but remember in a lighter car HP goes a longer way. a completely stock ls1 will take your car into the low 12s, and with minor mods it'll be solidly into the 11s.
anyhow, just two cents from a fellow FD owner
i don't know what you are building the car for or why you want 600+RWHP, but remember in a lighter car HP goes a longer way. a completely stock ls1 will take your car into the low 12s, and with minor mods it'll be solidly into the 11s.
anyhow, just two cents from a fellow FD owner
Last edited by AntiVenom7; Jul 21, 2006 at 09:58 PM.
I just got my motor and trans I quit on waiting for a 01-02 LS1 because I know how I am and in 1 years time there will be a 402 LS2 in my FD, with some duel stage nitrous haha. I think I have a proublem nothing is ever finished around here its always got to be faster.
Last edited by Sabre002; Jul 22, 2006 at 09:23 AM.
