OJmobileII

iTrader: (3)

getting ready to drop my LS1/T56 into my '90 RX7 and have been trying to change out anything that would be hard to get to later (oil pump, alternator, timing chain, etc.)

i think i should change the cam now (ease of install), but i have stock 243 heads w/ the 02+ springs rated to approximately .580 lift.

the whole point of me changing the cam now is b/c i dont want to do it later (pulling engine out and putting back in; w/ how far forward it will sit i dont think i can leave it in for the install). so going mild cam now and wild later is not an option that i want to do.

i was looking at comp 228/230 .571/.573 lift 112lsa. i want something that hits hard in the mid to upper rpms. peak at about 6600 and hold till 6800 looking for close about 450whp eventually. i want a cam i can grow into w/ cnc porting, valvetrain, fast 90/90 later.

how big can i go w/ stock springs (shimming??)?

some details about the car: 2.5in shorties, 2.5 dual cats, 2.5 x-pipe, 2.5 dual mufflers, 4.10 rear, stock 243s, 6sp, 25% underdrive, stock intake and throttle body (i know this is a restriction but i can change this once the engine is in the car, i cant do that w/ the cam. FAST 90/90 before i look for numbers)

dogger

iTrader: (1)

stock sping's need to be replaced because they won't handle any bigger lift cam. there's no point in risking your expensive motor over cheap springs. also you may want to consider connecting rod bolt's since your plannnig on spinning it up since it's out and your looking to get all the hard to get to stuff done now.

OJmobileII

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the post. u r correct about the springs, i jus had a long night of finding out things that needed to be replaced. it made me start to become grumpy, stupid, and cheap. currently looking to sell some stuff around the garage for dual valve springs. my next question is wut cam would be good for my setup and goals, i already asked in the internal section: cam for a hybrid

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Those lift numbers seem pretty conservative, but it should still pull decent up top.

FYI, you can pull the cam out in an FC very easily with the engine in the car, just yank the radiator and you're fine.

If you're considering anywhere near the 6500-6800 RPM range Katech or ARP rod bolts are a must.

OJmobileII

iTrader: (3)

did u put ur cam in before or after install? i jus thought w/ how tight it is upfront i would have trouble getting it in. figured i might not have to pull the engine all the way out but atleast unbolt it and angle it up a lil. jus wanted to make things easier down the rode. but if u say, it is as easy as u say it is... i will jus leave the cam alone and not touch the heads. thank u for ur help.

OJmobileII

iTrader: (3)

slept on the decision and decided to still change out the cam b/c i'll have the front cover off when i change the oil pump.

wut lifts do u suggest digitalsolo? i know ur on ported stock manifolds (i know ur very insistant about the performance of stock manifolds, but i had the 98s and i dont think those would do so i have aftermarket shorties).

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Shorties flow about the same as ported 00+ manifolds, which are what I have. If I hadn't gotten these cheap, or gotten a good deal on shorties, I'd have done them, nothing wrong with that.

Don't get me wrong, it's lots easier to put the cam in with the engine out. I'd absolutely do it that way. Much easier to not make mistakes, plus you can flip the engine over to keep the lifters out of the way. I was just meaning an in car cam swap is doable without moving the engine, at least it is in my car, should be in any FC though.

I have .581/.591 lifts in my 6.0L, if I were to do it again, I'd have probably went .601/.608 on a 234/236, but that's a bit radical for some, though it'd fit the RPM range you describe. For what you're wanting, I'd say at least high .580s/low 590s range, and probably favor the exhaust considering your shorties don't flow or scavenge as well as long tubes. Maybe something like a 224/230 .580/.590 range on a 112 or 114. 114 will idle nicer, and in these power levels probably not hurt overall power much. Either cam doesn't need to spin above 6300-6400 RPM range. The one you described looks like it probably starts to die out above 6200 or so; I can't believe 7K RPM is necessary with that combo.

edit: I recommend these somewhat larger cams, as you'll need springs anyway, you might as well put a little more cam in it, if you don't now, you'll wish you had later.

OJmobileII

iTrader: (3)

i think ur right about going a lil bigger now. i really really dont want to change it out later. a very experienced tech on this board suggested 224/230 .581/.592 111+1 XE-R lobes. so ur suggestion seems right on w/ him. a man more inteligent than i would be happy w/ this suggestion from the two of u, but i am ignorant.

u said u would go bigger. like i said, i want to hold power till 6800 (ordered rod bolts). w/ ur suggestions i was thinking something w/ a lil more duration and lift. but i think i should keep the +6 exhaust bias. maybe like a 228/234 .593/.604 112LSA XE-R lobes.

any other ideas?

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Anything in that range should be fine. More lift/duration is going to make a nastier cam to drive on the street, but more power up top.

Why do you want to spin to 6800 RPM?

OJmobileII

iTrader: (3)

i dont think i will spin to 6800. probably put my light at 6600 and my limiter at 6800. i jus want it to hold power. i dont want something that is going to die after 6200 like u said earlier.