owen v8litew8

oh man I had my LS1 just 1/8" over my p/s rack in my FC on hinson mounts for a year of driving including hard driving and autox... no problems and I did later switch to a manual rack that gave me 3/8" clearance to the pan and I saw no damage on the pan besides a little rub mark, no material rubbed away at all... using stock rubber mounts with hinsons mounts.
oh well, you sure wont lose power thru engine movement!
you are definitely doing a nice job on the conversion.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

Looks Bitchen! Awesome to see another project, let the knowledge base grow!

Are there any structural issues to solid mounts? Does the lack of vibration dampening increase the likely hood of stess cracks in either the block or the mounts? Any structural engineers around here?

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

thanks. i ended up scrapping my mounts last minute in favor of some BRP style mounts with urethane inserts. got the car running friday night and it's very smooth with these on the car.

GIGAPUNK

iTrader: (2)

What caused the change in heart? Any new pics?

Chin180sx

iTrader: (1)

ive seen soild mounts crack blocks. Maybe he has seen the same? if it wasnt for that problem i would have gone soild mounts also. Glad to see one of us has gotten their car running! since im repainting my whole car im running a little behind.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I've read that a common issue with cracking the transmission comes from the fact that people solidly mounted the engine and the transmission. That same person suggested that if you solid mount the one to not solid mount the other type thing. I'm hoping to be okay since the transmission is rubber mounted but I guess time will tell.

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

just thought my mounts looked/fitted poorly and wanted something halfway presentable in the car. the new ones also give greater clearance for exhaust and such.

i'll get pics of the mounts when i pull the motor back out this week. i ended up cooking a rod bearing over the weekend so i guess it's time for a rebuild already .

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

a quick picture someone else took over the weekend....



i also figured out this evening that my strut tower brace will fit even with the coil covers installed .

Slo_240sx

iTrader: (17)

Haha you are right our engine bays do look alike! Hit me up if you need help.

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

i've never done bearing replacement in the engine before so this will be a first for me.... but then again i'd never done such an involved engine swap before and i think it came out ok.

still need to come up with a list of parts needed. i'm leaning towards skipping doing the cam and valvetrain stuff in the interest of getting the car back together quickly so i can run more events this year. then i can hope to win some more cash and then have some new goodies for the car .

this is what i'm planning so far:
-ported LS6 pump
-full set of bearings, not yet sure what brand/model (assuming the crank and block isn't trashed)
-ARP hardware for the bottom end
-cleaning cleaning cleaning to get all possible metal shavings out


i guess i need to invest in some new tools now too, a mic gauge set is probably in order.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I don't know about the LS1 but I know a lot of people (and some engine builders I talked to and read about as well) on the trad. small blocks used Clevite bearings (Clevite 77's I heard a lot of people talk about using) and they were the ones I'd look into if I was freshing up the bottom end. Does anybody know if they are the brand to go with on the LS1?

A tip for you when installing the oil pump. Make sure you use a feeler gauge on each side of the pump around the crank when you install it so it's centered. I think it's a .002" tolerance on each side IIRC but don't quote me on that. I know that if it isn't centered the oil pump will get destroyed and you'll be doing another rebuild.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Hey, have you thought about putting an oil accumulator into your oiling system to help during those time when you might be running low on oil pressure? That's what I'm looking into doing later on if it becomes an issue.

s1ck s0n

iTrader: (7)

saw the car at nopi, looked great, you seem to have a slight over-steering problem though.

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

haha, yeah i think i need some more tire in the rear or something

the.erinyes

iTrader: (3)

If you spun a bearing or two, you will need to have the crank turned as well. Since you need to pull the crank, it would be a good time to put in new main bearings as well. Going with ARP rod bolts (waveloc) and main studs is the correct way to go. If you are really interested in a strong bottom end, then an engine girdle would be a great addition and relatively cheap insurance, especially if you are looking to add more power down the line.
BTW, nice job with the swap.

Chin180sx

iTrader: (1)

An engine girdle? I didnt even think they made these for LS1's I thought they were designed for puny 2 bolt and 4 bolt mains engines. The LS is already a 6 bolt main how much studier do you really think you have to go?

DOHCsky

iTrader: (3)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-P...spagenameZWDVW


<-- girdle

owen v8litew8

HAHAHAHAHA thats just silly.

217zenki

iTrader: (4)

Which oil pan did u use the gto pan?

icantdrift

iTrader: (1)

yes, 04 GTO pan.