TOOSLO5

Did a search and found some info but not exactly what I was looking for.

I am going to be installing a truck engine in my Chevelle and going the TT route. What is the hold up in using a car intake on the truck engine? Is it the water pump hose position or the tensioner or both? If its the hose position I will change it. If its the tensioner I will have to convert to either F body or vette drive system.

Thanks!

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

It is the water pump hose outlet, the alternator idler pulley position (interfers W/ TB), and the fuel rails/injectors are different.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

You are aware that Parish is making 1000rwhp and 1090rwtq thru a 5.3 truck intake, stock ported TB, on a 408 6.0 based iron block stroker with single T-88 turbo. He has since switched to twin turbos.

It is an AWD shortbed truck that runs low 10's on Nitto DR's weighing nearly 5,000lbs and retains a built 4L80E with STOCK 1/2 ton front and rear axles!!! Only think broken in the driveline is a rear stock Ujoint if memory serves me correct.

TOOSLO5

The reason for the intake swap was more to clean up the look of things but I had no idea that kind of power could be made with the big ugly intake! I will be running a 370 ci engine with twins and just really wanted to clean up the overall look of the engine compartment.

Thanks for the info guys!

samdogmx

iTrader: (14)

go search around on the truck forum. there are several guys who have done it. The main thing is you need to use either all the front drive accesorys from a car or swap to a removable pulley water pump to get the spacing right. also the the w/p outlet & the idler & everything else. IMO i think it would be cheaper & easier to use a carb style manifold

Quick Double Nickel

iTrader: (5)

Anybody know how much it would be to get a complete set of F-body or Corvette accessories to switch out? I've been thinking of doing the same thing, but I have an LS6 intake that I want to use.

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

There are pros and cons to each method. Here's what we did on the last two 5.3 street rod packages we put together. Neither customer wanted to use the truck intake, so we used our idler pulley relocation bracket to get the idler out of the way and then pulled the upper hose nipple, made a series of cuts in it and then to reform it and then welded the cuts up, and drilled the front casting hole in the water pump and installed it there. We then plugged the original hole in the truck pump.

This method lets you keep the truck accessories and is really slick looking when finished, it just isn't real easy and quick to accomplish.

Here's some before and after shots and the reworked upper hose nipple:

BEFORE


AFTER







It also required switching to a set of car coil packs on the drivers side because of the lower inlet of the LS1 fuel rail:

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

How much does that idler pulley relocation kit change the belt length by? Just curious, it might solve my belt length problem when I put my A/C bracket on, right now I`m stuck between 2 belt sizes and no one makes a belt length between them .

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

The belt is 95mm longer with the relocation bracket.

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

so, how much is that bracket or do you even sell it?

Quick Double Nickel

iTrader: (5)

Also, where is the A/C compressor mount on a truck engine in comparison to an F-body setup? And how big of a throttle body can be used on this type of setup? It looks pretty close to the belt across the front. And I'm assuming this would work the same for both LS1 and LS6 intakes. Thanks for the info!

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

Yes, we've sold 20+ of these brackets. They are $80 each. I'm out of them now and not sure when I'll have more in.

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

The A/C compressor is in the same place on the truck as on an F-body, it just sticks out towards the front slightly more on the truck.

I don't know about all of the aftermarket throttle bodies, but if you compare a stock throttle body with a GM 90mm, the outside dimension isn't any bigger. It's all done by just boring the ID out larger.

Andy1

John,

How confident are you with that modified/welded outlet pipe staying retained in the waterpump? I'm contemplating a similar modification of the outlet on mine (though it's an LS2 pump), but am concerned about the reliability of its retention. It is not a particularly tight press fit..........Or am I worrying for nothing?

Incidentally, the first of the pictures you posted shows what appears to be a truck motor that has a near flush fitting oil filler cap on the passenger side valve cover. Will this cap fit any LSx? If so, what is the year/application or source? I would like to find one like this for my swap, as the stock LS1 interferes.

Thank you,
Andy1

Speartech

iTrader: (14)

It's in there solid! In our case, we were drilling the new hole so we drilled it the exact correct size and then made a little tool to pound the modified pipe in with. Of course we added a little Loctite red sleeve retention compound (271?) before installing the pipe.

As for the oil cap, nothing special there. Just remove the plastic extension tube and then the cap fits right into the valve cover. Good eye though! The first pic is one of our shop engines, the second one is the actual customers engine.