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Drive by Wire-Vette Pedal-> '56 Chevy

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Old 09-25-2006, 01:50 PM
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Default Drive by Wire-Vette Pedal-> '56 Chevy

I have an '04 Corvette gas pedal to use with the drive by wire LS1 conversion I am doing in vy '56 Chevy convertible.

Is there anyone out there that has done this who can share their thoughts on location/monting of the gas pedal?

It sorta looks like I may need to mount it with a spacer behind the bottom of the pedal in order to get full travel. My firewall is already painted, so I want to get this right the first time

Thanks
Old 09-25-2006, 03:43 PM
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Sorry I can't help you with the pedal mounting. This is unique on your car so you are on your own here. Are you using the C5 PCM with all the necesary wirings?
Old 09-25-2006, 07:49 PM
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Yes. I am working with John at Speartech to identify correct components, and will be having him build the harness, and program the computer. I purchased the TAC module from him too.
Old 09-25-2006, 08:39 PM
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I have an earlier model Vette pedal in my Studebaker. I built a simple bracket and mounted it to the same bolts that hold my brake pedal assembly. With over 1000 miles on it now it works fine. You can see pictures in my journal here:

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/jour...age=5&reverse=

Entry # 19

Hope that helps

Pat
Old 09-25-2006, 09:40 PM
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I believe only a few guys on here using the drive by wire. Stu and I and Zeeta (not sure his handle). Mine is pretty easy to mount and it had no clearance problem. This is unique for every car so you are on your own. Here is a picture of my pedal. Goodluck
Vinh
Old 09-26-2006, 02:27 PM
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Thanks guys. It gives me some ideas. I'll have to see how the bracket from brake pedal mounting will work out. I'm sure I'll come up with something.
Old 09-26-2006, 02:56 PM
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Default Fly by wire pedal

I mounted a pedal in my 96 S10 Blazer. Stock pedal from silverado hit the trans tunnel. I just cut the pedal arm off about 2 inches from the pivot. Then shaped a piece of 1.5 inch angle iron to fit the foot pad and bent it away from the tunnel. Tacked it in place with the pivot bolted to the firewall. After making sure it was angled right and the pedal had full travel, good foot position, took it back out and finished welding the arm to the 2 inches on the pivot. Make sure you use some kind of heat sink on the arm near the plastic pivot bushing to keep from melting it. I used some vice grips and wet rags wrapped around it. Painted it and it looks good. Works too. Finally got the wiring and computer hooked up last Sunday and tested it all out. The TB cycles great. All by electrons!!!



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