It's a 2001 Camaro PCM. I wonder if fuel level is sent to the PCM and then to the dash or if it's just a straight up signal from tank to gauge. There must be an electronic buffer somewhere as well. This weekend, I will go to my friend's shop where he's parting out a car. It should answer all my problems.

 

on a 2001 Camaro fuel system the fuel level sensor recieves a low reference from the PCM Pin 23 on C1 gray wire. this is the same low refernce wire that also feeds the fuel tank pressure sensor. Coming out of the fuel level sensor there is a purple wire this wire goes to Pin 54 C2 on the pcm. This wire is the fuel level sensor signal. If i recall correctly from the fuel system i designed on a 2001 TA the stock fuel level sensor should read 0-33 ohms. The pcm then uses data link wires to send the info to the IPC.

 

Wow, thanks Pure One. I got a complete harness out of a parts car that J&T Auto (Huntington, NY) had in one of their parts cars. Now I have everything I need! I'll get it wired this week.

Anyone know what the readings are for 1990 Mustang? I hear it's 33 Ohms empty and 158 Ohms full. Is this close enough to stock to reprogram with HP Tuners?

 

I have all my notes on the fuel system upgrade i did at work i can get for you on monday if you'd like. I converted a lt1 tank and sender unit to a ls1 sensor to use and i have the ohm resistence on both of them wrote down. I will check my notes on Monday and post them that night.

 

I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you!

 

Which K-member did you end up using? I am currently researching to do a ls2/l92 turbo setup in my notchback that currently has a 355sbc. It uses the stock K-member and the mounts relocated, engine moved back 5" firewall fabricated. Also how is the location of the engine compared to stock 5.0? My thought was to use a Tubluar K-memeber with no mounts and add the perches and mount myself.

 

yea and why no progress for a while??

 

Au contraire mon fraire!!!

I was traveling for work in LA all week. Trust me, there is no place I'd rather be than in my garage. The good thing is, when I got back, I got a complete engine compartment and interior wiring harness out of a 2000 Camaro SS so that I can trace everything. I did get a few other things done such as the heater hoses, radiator hoses, serp belt and even plumbed in the power steering cooler that I got from J&T Auto in Huntington Station, NY 631-385-3403 (John there regularly parts cars out.)

From www.scanmyride.com, I found an adapter harness that transforms a regular Camaro harness into a standalone one. Patrick McMahon there makes a really nice kit that plugs right into the Camaro engine harness and he labels all the wires coming out for power, the fuel pump, the OBD-II connector and even the fans. He runs the fuses and even the relays for everything in one block. It was $150.

I intend to use Patrick's harness and will splice in the extra wires such as the oil pressure gauge into it. It'll be real clean (at least I hope.)

As they say, the last 20% of the project will take 80% of your time. The only thing left is the electrical system and the headers which American Racing in Long Island, NY will be building.

 

WHY----Ford needs a FORD motor..IMO. [THESE ls1'S ARE NOT THE 'END ALL-BE ALL' OF ENGINES.] ........ [Joking ..har-dee-har.]

 

I have a UPR Racing (Florida) tubular K with 5.0 mounts. The fore/aft location is perfect, but I think the motor sits a bit high in front, even with the offset rack bushings inverted. I could be wrong, though. The oil pan sits flat with the ground and it clears the K member and underside of the hood no problem. In the end, the oil pan is closest where it meets the steering rack. The driveshaft angle is very good, but I'm just sayin'...

 

What oil pan did you use?

Thanks.

 

looks like an fbody

r u gonna race the m5 when ur all done?

 

Yeah, it's from a 2001 Camaro.

The M5 is gone. Just got an M6. I need to update my pics.

It really wakes up over 100. From there on, you're just waiting to get up to speed. I'm just covering all my acceleration bases here so this is the drag car.

Tonight, I tucked all the wiring inside the fenderwells but mounted the starter solenoid in the engine compartment. This will still allow me to crank the engine over from under the hood.

 

what's with the black & red wire on the same post in the pic on the right? and is the other post just being used for a ground since it's a black cable?

 

All terminals on a Ford terminal are positive, either constant or switched. This car was already prewired with a black positive battery cable before I bought it. It connects to the constant positive terminal on the starter solenoid. The new red wire comes from the alternator, replacing the skinnier factory Ford alternator wire because the LS1 alternator puts out a lot more current. The other cable is red with a black heatshrink sleeve on it. It goes to the starter motor. When the key is in the start position, it energizes the solenoid and closes the circuit here, connecting the starter to 12.6 full volts. It is grounded through the two bolts that hold it to the inner fender. I will also run a redundant trigger wire to the starter itself because in this GM application, there is also a solenoid on the motor.

 

Sorry but i could not find my notes. Friend has his old sensor out of his ls1 gonna bring it by to me. I'll ohm it and give you the results as soon as i can.

 

How much room is there for the starter and K-member? And what about useing the the stock 5.0L K-member?

Thanks.

 

The later model mustangs use an upgraded starter (gear reduction) that has an integrated solenoid as well. I upgraded to that starter not to long ago on my 5.0 and had to upgrade to a '93 5.0 starter solenoid. It has a separate stud (located half-way between the two large post and a little lower). You run a separate 14 or 16 gauge wire from that to the solenoid on the starter. I think it works the same way as what you are describing above in your post powershiftkung (the redundant trigger wire). Anyway, it might save you some headaches with wiring to go with the '93 model starter solenoid, if you don't already have it.

 

There's more room than with the 5.0. The tubular K helps a lot with that as well. The Camaro pan won't clear a stock K member. Besides, what better way to get more access to the headers and to take 50 pounds off the nose.

 

The solenoid was replaced at one point and yes, it does a have a diode suppressed secondary lead, which is used on starters with an integrated solenoid of the 1992-newer Mustangs. I'm taking advantage of the fact that the Camaro harness has the wire already run into the interior so it'll be one less wire to go under the engine.