70 LS1

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone cut the clutch master pushrod shorter or put a shorter end on it? I'd like to mount the master directly to the firewall instead of the 1" or so it is away from it currently.

Thanks

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I don't see why it wouldn't work as long as you can get the master to sit at the right angle without binding and there enough travel for the pedal to push the rod it's required travel 15/16" - 1".

let us know how it works out...

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

yea.
all of the ram "adjustible" ones are just factory units with the end chopped off, threaded, and a rod end screwed on...

70 LS1

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if it would be easier to add a bracket to the pedal like Olly did in his 67 Camaro. I think he posted something about it in his sticky at the top.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

My master is not directly mounted to the firewall, but I put a tab on the pedal.



JohnB has a similar setup and his is mounted directly to the firewall. There is more info on his site.

svt

Yes, this is exactely what I did to mine. Chopped in the neighborhood of 1" off (if i remember corectly) threaded it and put on a hiem joint. Didn't have to add a tab to the pedal or notch the pedal bracket. However, with the hiem joint, no length was saved, but I already made the common bracket everyone has so i wasn't trying to shorten it as much as possible.

One note, the cast aluminum end that I cut and threaded turns hollow to slip fit over the steel plunger, so becareful, you can only cut so much off.

chevysrule94

iTrader: (2)

Do NOT cut the stock one and try to make it adjustable... I did that...and it worked great for a few hundred miles...then the cheap mild steel rod gave out 300 miles from home!!! That sucked..... real bad...

svt

here is a pic what I did. I was able to bolt it to the stock hole in the pedal with no other modifications to the pedal or pedal support.

chevysrule94

iTrader: (2)

oh man thats what I did... good luck with it

svt

really, i don't see how the steel pushrod is weakened with this modification, do you have any pictures of your mod? this is similar to what tyler sells, except he machines a whole new aluminum peice.

Teetoe_Jones

Ours is actually stronger than factory, since it is stainless steel, not aluminum. We also crimp ours on like factory does, not thread the rod.
I would also not suggest mounting the master directly to the firewall, as it will flex, and eventually crack. It is not designed to bear that load at all, which is why we have a firewall bracket.

Tyler

chevysrule94

iTrader: (2)

If I remember correctly the mild steel rod is a bit smaller than 3/8ths die, so when you thread it, the threads dont catch right, then if you go smaller... it cuts in too far and will eventually break.

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

what "I" would do, is chop off the factory pushrod up to 1" from the end of its stroke. from there, I would get a piece of steel tubing, the ID of which, is equal to the diameter of the factory rod. I would then weld the tubing over the rod, cut to my desired length, and tap it for a small rod end. i'll illustrate here in a minute..

olly

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

uh, oh.. here comes the amazing artwork..

89lx-ls1

iTrader: (23)

I had to do the same thing but i just cut the pushrod and welded it back. you just have to keep it cool so it doesnt damage the seals in the cylinder

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

i had a pedal bracket break on me, so mine's pretty beefy, haha.

70 LS1

iTrader: (1)

How and where did your original design break?

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

it was just a little piece of 5/32 x 1/2"w x 2" L piece of steel like hotrodlane.cc showed you how to do. I went wrong by picking a piece with a tiny 1/4" hole in it, and it snapped right there. I was planning on beefing it up, once I bled it, but I forgot, and got distracted by the pedal pressure and hydraulics. the leverage point was way wrong, which had a lot to do with it. i thought i'd overkill it to be safe, something about my clutch slamming to the floor made me unhappy, dunno why.

70 LS1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Olly. Was your first one bolted to the pedal or welded?

67RSCamaroVette

iTrader: (63)

welded very well. it took me 10 mins to grind it off.