More 240SX Clutch Master Questions...
01-03-2007, 09:15 PM
#21
Originally Posted by the.erinyes
It is actually a few cents cheaper from Summit Racing:
WIL-260-1304 MASTER CYLINDER 3/4IN A Shipped on 12/12/06 $49.95 1 $49.95
Parts Total: $49.95
Handling Charge: $9.95
Total Charges: $59.90
WIL-260-1304 MASTER CYLINDER 3/4IN A Shipped on 12/12/06 $49.95 1 $49.95
Parts Total: $49.95
Handling Charge: $9.95
Total Charges: $59.90
01-06-2007, 04:20 AM
#23
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If it hasn't already been posted, the thread in the Master Cylinder is 3/8-24 inverted flare. Summit and I'm sure plenty of other places carry an adapter to convert to -4 AN (for McLeod TO Bearing). The fitting that comes on it I believe converts to -3 AN. I'm ordering the long thread as it looks longer than normal.
02-03-2007, 02:10 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by cnichols
If it hasn't already been posted, the thread in the Master Cylinder is 3/8-24 inverted flare. Summit and I'm sure plenty of other places carry an adapter to convert to -4 AN (for McLeod TO Bearing). The fitting that comes on it I believe converts to -3 AN. I'm ordering the long thread as it looks longer than normal.
02-11-2007, 02:07 AM
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Ok....to clean up the mess I just made on the fitting sizes. I'll double check and edit if I'm wrong again.
The Wilwood Master Cylinder comes with an adapter already in it that goes from -3AN to 3/8"-24 Inverted Flare. But, because it's so small (and therefore close to the firewall) I'm going to use a -3AN banjo fitting and eliminate the fitting that came with it in order to avoid cutting the firewall lip. On the other end of the line, I'm removing the GM Quick Disconnect fitting from the slave cylinder. Russell makes a "Clutch Fitting" as they call it that fits in the slave cylinder and converts to -3AN. This way there is no rigging, no welding, just one solid line from end to end.
The Wilwood Master Cylinder comes with an adapter already in it that goes from -3AN to 3/8"-24 Inverted Flare. But, because it's so small (and therefore close to the firewall) I'm going to use a -3AN banjo fitting and eliminate the fitting that came with it in order to avoid cutting the firewall lip. On the other end of the line, I'm removing the GM Quick Disconnect fitting from the slave cylinder. Russell makes a "Clutch Fitting" as they call it that fits in the slave cylinder and converts to -3AN. This way there is no rigging, no welding, just one solid line from end to end.
Last edited by cnichols; 02-11-2007 at 02:19 AM.
02-21-2007, 08:23 AM
#33
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Why cant you use the stock Master? ive got a gto engine thats going into a 200sx to now, ive put an ls1 in a camaro 67, and now im working on the 200, ill make a thread on the 200sx later when i have gotten a bit further, the engine is going in for the first time today and ive gotten lots of info on the swap of this site .
.
02-21-2007, 08:27 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by Hersker Hans
Why cant you use the stock Master? ive got a gto engine thats going into a 200sx to now, ive put an ls1 in a camaro 67, and now im working on the 200, ill make a thread on the 200sx later when i have gotten a bit further, the engine is going in for the first time today and ive gotten lots of info on the swap of this site .
.
02-21-2007, 01:25 PM
#35
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Originally Posted by Ted J
The most basic reason that I can think of is the stock clutch petal assembly moves the MC 7/8" which is the same as the stock F-body. With that travel you need a 3/4" bore MC, the stock MC on my '91 S13 is 5/8" so you would need more travel of the MC to work with the LS1/T56 slave.
02-21-2007, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Hersker Hans
thanks for the answer, that makes sense, but i was also thinking about the stock masterpump on the t56 from the fbody, why do you buy one on summit instead of using that.
Anyway, here's a picture of what the MC looks like from the f-body to give you an idea of what I'm talking about:
EDIT:
Here's a few more pictures I found when surfing around to give you an idea of how somebody mounted it in their swap project. As you can see they are able to go lower and mount it like in a F-body and you just can't do that on the 240SX for it's designed to have the MC go straight in right up at the firewall and not at an angle.
Pulled those images from this thread: Link
Last edited by Ted J; 02-21-2007 at 01:52 PM.
02-24-2007, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cnichols
Ok....to clean up the mess I just made on the fitting sizes. I'll double check and edit if I'm wrong again.
The Wilwood Master Cylinder comes with an adapter already in it that goes from -3AN to 3/8"-24 Inverted Flare. But, because it's so small (and therefore close to the firewall) I'm going to use a -3AN banjo fitting and eliminate the fitting that came with it in order to avoid cutting the firewall lip. On the other end of the line, I'm removing the GM Quick Disconnect fitting from the slave cylinder. Russell makes a "Clutch Fitting" as they call it that fits in the slave cylinder and converts to -3AN. This way there is no rigging, no welding, just one solid line from end to end.
The Wilwood Master Cylinder comes with an adapter already in it that goes from -3AN to 3/8"-24 Inverted Flare. But, because it's so small (and therefore close to the firewall) I'm going to use a -3AN banjo fitting and eliminate the fitting that came with it in order to avoid cutting the firewall lip. On the other end of the line, I'm removing the GM Quick Disconnect fitting from the slave cylinder. Russell makes a "Clutch Fitting" as they call it that fits in the slave cylinder and converts to -3AN. This way there is no rigging, no welding, just one solid line from end to end.
Thanks for any info you have in this regard!
02-25-2007, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Ted J
Do you know where I could find a fitting to go from the 3/8"-24 Inverted Flare fitting that Wilwood put on there to a -4 AN male and have it be a 90 degree fitting? I am trying to get my -4 AN female clutch line to hook up to it. I tried ordering a -3 to -4 union but the -3 adapter they have on the MC is a lot deeper and the union won't work.
Thanks for any info you have in this regard!
Thanks for any info you have in this regard!
02-25-2007, 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by cnichols
Use a banjo to -3 AN fitting.
I think what I'm going to do is machine down the MC some so that the -3 to -4 union adapter will work since the flare part is where it seals at and it also makes for a very clean install. Asking about the banjo fitting you are speaking of in case what I'm going to try to do won't work.
Thanks!