Sabre002

iTrader: (7)

Here is the master I got from hinson to use on my LS1 RX7



Just thought it might help

cnichols

iTrader: (23)

The bolt part of the banjo fitting will go into the female part of the MC. You will eliminate the fitting that came with it. The circle part of the banjo will then sit directly on the MC using two crush washers. This not only makes it low profile, but also allows you to come off at a 90 degree angle.

Then, order the Russell part that fits directly into the Slave cylinder (eliminating the GM Quick Disconnect) which has a -3 AN male fitting on the end. As a result, you have two male -3 AN fittings with a single line in between for the SIMPLEST possible route. Trying something else would just be pointless.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I ended up maching down the MC so that the -3 male to -4 male union would work. Then I go right to the Mcleod clutch line that I bought that has the GM quick disconnect already on it. I wanted to keep the quick disconnect so if I ever have any slaves issues and need to replace it that it will be a quick swap. (I have a '00 slave, when I swap out the clutch I'll then update to a '01 to '02 slave or an aftermarket one since I'll be using the clutch a lot with clutch kicks and all) It will also look pretty clean for I'll be running the clutch line right off of the MC and onto the lip that runs across above the brake booster and then go down to the transmission from there.

Not the same solution but pretty simple as well, the only issue was getting the MC machined down but I already got that part done. I'm not the biggest fan of banjo's for if you ever want to take the line off for any reason and put it back on the MC you'll need new crush washers or chance using the old ones and have them leak. The way I ended up doing it there should be no chances of leaking since it's all flares that mate up and the GM quick disconnect line ends that Mcleod uses are from the supplier that GM used so that shouldn't leak either. Guess there is more than one way to skin a cat!

cnichols

iTrader: (23)

Finally got pics of everything...



That part # is the Russell fitting that replaces the GM Quick disconnect and has a male -3AN fitting on the end. You have to remove the tension pin first and it comes right out. *NOTE: The Russell package comes with two. One did NOT fit. Not sure if they were supposed to be identical or not, but there was a slight difference between the two. One fit pefect, the other would not go in.

Installed...



The entire assembly off the car. I wanted as few connections as possible so I could limit the possibilities for leakage. All ends are crimped onto the stainless teflon line. I purchased the bleed line as a total package from an LS1 Tech member (steve-d). The length allows for the end to mount near the master cylinder so that it can be bled as the master cylinder is filled and you will never have to get under the car. It also came with an Earl's speed bleeder on the end.



Both lines installed into the slave cylinder...



At the master cylinder end, I used a 3/8"-24 thread banjo bolt with the other end crimped to the line. I believe you can buy this with a -3AN line if you don't crimp it...

Budman78

iTrader: (5)

Great info guys. I installed an F-Body master in my vette years ago and I have never been happy with it. It functions perfect, but only 2" of travel. It is great for drag racing, but hell in traffic. Will I've got the car torn down for paint, I may put some of these great suggestions to work.

ranger2339

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to bring up an oldish thread but i have a few questions.

Will 36" of SS Line be long enough to go from the slave to the MC? I am not home now nor will be soon, otherwise I could measure myself.
I am going with the set up that cnichols has mentioned and I found some -3an to 3/8 banjo brake line that is 36" long and was just wondering if thats going to be long enough? Found in the link below.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Also when you order with summit, how do you specify if you want the ie. in my case, the 10mm or the 3/8th? I need the 3/8th banjo. It should be the same though.. soo ya I think I am having a brain fart.

Sorry for all the dumb questions, I am trying to get my stuff for my car when I am 10,000mi away from it..

Thanks
Josh

cnichols

iTrader: (23)

36" is plenty, I think mine was a little under 30". Pretty sure it's the 3/8-24 thread bolt that you need.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

you can order the line that chris has from russel for like 25 dollars. or you can get one with a strait -3an female, or a 90* female. all for about 25-30 bux. well worth it. just get you an adapter fitting for -3an to 3/8 x 24 for the master.

ranger2339

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanks guys.

What I did now is just bought the 36" brake line with the female -3an on one end and on the other end it has the 3/8 banjo, then I bought a 3/8 24 banjo bolt. Then got the bleed line from steve-d. Got most of it from summit.

Great thread, help me out a ton.

Josh

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

I second that ^^

I am just coming to grips with figuring out displacements for master cylinders and trying to pick the right one for my setup. I'm curious about two things:

1) Why'd you guys go with a Wilwood 0.75" bore/1.4" stroke MC when you could have used something pushing volume closer to stock like the Wilwood 0.70" bore/1.4" stroke?

2) I keep seeing the U-shaped bracket on the end of your MC rods like this one: http://www.streetelite.net/pics/570/DSC02037.JPG -- is that the stock end piece for the 240SX, is it coming with your universal Wilwood MC, or is it something you fabbed up? It would work great for my setup, but I don't want to pay $33 for the installation kit they sell at Summit.

the.erinyes

iTrader: (3)

Also, on the first page of this thread the ls1neezy post describes in detail how-to fab up the bracket. As far as I know, for the 240 swap, all the brackets have been fabricated.

Ken.

GTOpowered240sx

iTrader: (1)

What bleed line is that? I must have missed it.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

Thanks again, Ken. You've been instrumental in helping point me in the right direction on this stuff, and I'd still be kicking the dirt (and the search feature) looking for answers if it weren't for two very brief pearles of wisdom from you

I owe you one!

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

http://www.streetelite.net/pics/570/DSC02037.JPG

There are two lines coming out of the slave cylinder - bleed line is on the right. Line to MC is on the left.

GTOpowered240sx

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I meant what bleed line was everyone purchasing. But I found Steve-d and sent him a message. Thanks.

GTOpowered240sx

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone found a fitting that connects to the GM quick disconnect? I'd really like to keep it if at all possible, but I havent been able to locate one.

We have a summit racing location close by, I may just ride up there and see if they can help me find something.

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

I was actually at that Summit tonight buying my new MC and the supporting stuff. I can tell you this:

They have the WilWood MC in stock.
They do not have the Earl 36" line with -3AN end/banjo bolt end in stock.
They do not have any banjo bolts in stock.
They do not have hte Russell fittings in stock, and they are on backorder till May 11th.
The guy who helped me was an idiot - he couldn't find the fitting I needed.

If you break down and must have the Russell fitting, Russell will sell to you if you call them directly. For some idiotic reason, they always get backordered to their vendors, but you can always call them up and buy the part directly. Stupid, but 99% of the time, it's true (and lame as ****).

If you find a fitting, lemm know - I would love to find a fitting with -3 AN (male) on one side and a GM Quick connect on the other would make my life hella easier right now.

Oh - I also found out that the 36" line says "10mm or 3/8 banjo" because it will work using eihter/or, not because you have a choice of one or the other end fitting.

mmdb

iTrader: (1)

I have a -4 AN fitting that eliminates the fitting so you can run SS braided line straight up to it. I got it from Mcloed but since I kept the fitting I don't need it. Let me know if you're interested.

cnichols

iTrader: (23)

Yes, Russell makes a fitting I assume for -4 or -3 that eliminates the Quick Disconnect. I'm using the -3 and pedal feel is great. I really don't see the need to keep the Quick Disconnect. If you get a long enough line to the master cylinder, it should be easy to disconnect the tranny from the bellhousing and only pull it out so far to allow access to the two bolts holding the slave cylinder on. Once that is loose, you can leave everything hooked up and not have to bleed it again.

NOTE: The U shaped fitting seen in the picture below is the stock piece. For me, it was NOT long enough and fabbed a new one out of stainless steel. Have probably 100-150 miles on this setup now and have not had a problem.

http://www.streetelite.net/backup/pics/570/DSC02037.JPG

I took that picture before I realized that it was too short. It's also a good idea to make a new one since I've seen those break on a normal 240. They're made out of junk metal.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

You might have already seen my answer that somebody quoted a little after your post but the 1.4" stroke is the max. stroke the MC can do. To figure the volume of flude displaced you need to figure out the MC's travel with how the petal works out and then you'll know what bore size to go with.

The stock S13 petal set up moves the MC the same as the f-body petal does so that's why I matched up the bore size of 0.75". Tested it out the other day and it works just fine.