...or is there a kit available to put an LS1 into a 98 S-10?
I have done searches in the forum, but just wondered if anyone ever complied a list of the brackets, pans, manifolds, etc to make the swap work.
I working on the swap now and have a 98 LS1 and the T-56 ready to go in, the nose is off and the rest of the truck is nearly done (lowered, painted, big brakes) now we just have to get the block to sit in right and mount the accessories so they dont hit things. I know that this swap has been done and have seen pics of some really nice work, how about giving up some of your secrets...... Chris

 

Ok....the cross member needs to be notched to clear the oil pan. If you use the F-body oil pan like I did then you will need to slightly notch the pan as well. The frame needs to be notched on the passenger side to clear the AC compressor. I would suggest cutting your factory ac box to make more room for the passenger side valve cover/head. A plate that will fit the hole you cut out is available from JTR. As for manifolds you can go custom headers or you can use factory manifolds they just have to be extended. You will need to mount the alternator using corvette brackets and accessories so that it isn't running into the steering box. Do you have motor mounts yet?? There are a few places that make them or you can modify facotry to fit. As for electric fans I would suggest the flex-a-lite 210 model.( I live in AZ and they are doing fine so far...course the real test will be the summer to see if it will idle with ac on when its 110). The tachometer needs to be re-calibrated in order to read correctly. I cut and modified my tranny crossmember in order to have more room for LT headers and removed the gas tank for a fuel cell mounted in the bed and so I could run true duals down both sides. The stock brake booster and steering shaft had no problems clearing my LS1. I have all my coil packs on my engine..non are moved. Had to get modified ac lines.....don't forgett the vent hose out of the radiator. I'm sure I am forgetting stuff....I tried to just give you a general idea of thing needed to be done....I'm not sure of how much you know about the stuff you need to do during the swap. I did my swap in a first gen so I'm not sure if there are any different things with later models??


Just for some insight...heres a link to progress of my swap..
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38502

-Taylor

 

https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/S-10_Order.html

#S10-108 ( fifth product down) are motor mounts that will fit your application.

They say they are making LS1 oil pan soon...but they have been saying that for like a year...sooo yea.

#S10-131 ac box/Evaporator housing cover that I was suggesting you use is also on there.

#S10-405C It appears they have headers for the newer trucks too. I think they are shorties/mid lengths.

Theres all kinds of stuff on that web site...check em out.

Whatever you do...don't buy from LS1 performance parts....they rip people off and I have had my share of bad experiences with em.

 

there were 807 GTs actually =]

 

Thanks for the help, guys. We got the truck pan from the dealer today. We pulled the stearing box and are going with a Mustang II rack and pinion. With that out of the way, the accesorries drop right in place with only a small notch to the cross member to clear the front of the oil pan sump. The A/C box didn't even need to be trimmed. If the Camero exhaust manifolds don't fit, it looks like we may Build a set of headders. Now that the engine is placed the kid wants to see if we can fit a turbo in there somewhere. I'd rather get it running first, but what the hell, things are going too well as it is. Might as well make it difficult... Chris

 

Nope....vin productions numbers are #001-806 In total there were 806 Sonoma GT's made for public sale.
Then there is also the one made for the 93 production year which was a 4X4. Then you have to consider crash testing and prototypes.

So, if you want to get technical there are more, but for simplicity sake I just go with the vin number.

 

Keep us posted on the rack and pinion...I'd like to do a power rack and pinion in my truck but haven't found one that works yet.

 

Hi guys this is Nick "crispy" igot the motor in the truck but the coil pack near the brake booster wont fit . did you have the motor in the middle of the frame oh and no i didn't buy motor mounts i used the camaro motor mounts and fabed the mounts.




crispy

 

Hmm... my coil packs fit fine next to my brake booster....it is close, but it clears. Although you have a later model S10...not sure if that makes a difference. Is your motor pretty low?? I know mine sits lower than the V6 used to...

 

i agree.. i was refering to the 4x4 GT. not sure if it was released to the public or not though

oh, and my coil packs fit just fine too... the truck ones sit higher up than the car coils and i mounted the engine as low as it could go

 

Hmm... my coil packs fit fine next to my brake booster....it is close, but it clears. Although you have a later model S10...not sure if that makes a difference. Is your motor pretty low?? I know mine sits lower than the V6 used to...



yea the oil pan is 3\4 of an inch from the cross member that is hott hammered down about 1 inch . Lets put it this way the motor is so low that there is 2 1\2 of oil pan below the oil pan. but that is ok that leavs plenty of room for the huge turbo also the crossmember brace\ rack and pinion mount will act as a skid plate.

 

My coils hit the brake booster. Now, it makes a difference if you are using a 97-98 coil pack setup, truck setup, or a 99+ setup. The 99+ setup sticks out the highest and thus you might run into more clearance problems. I got around this on my truck (it's a 2000) by getting rid of the stock brake booster and using a booster off a late 90's malibu. Only thing that needed modified was the rod that hooks to the pedal, even the bolt holes lined up. The truck booster is like 11" in diameter, the malibu booster is only like 7". Another idea is maybe using a hydrobooster, rather than a vacuum assist type booster being he is talking about going with a turbo. Just food for thought there.

 

Ahh I see. They never did sell 93 s-gt's. I believe that the 4X4 they made belongs to a GM executive or something.

 

not sure how to tell ya how low it sits... i can say that i have NO room for intake tubing cuz it hits the top of my rad fans (flex 210s on stock rad)

still not sure what to do about that problem... i know my new LS2 intake tips the tb up a bit, maybe itll sit a bit higher...

 

That's how my truck is as well. The air intake elbow tubing basically rests on the upper part of the electric fans.

 

cool now i can finish this up today the junk yard in town has a malibu . i saw that some one had a t56 also did you have to mod the floor pan and did you use the truck cluch master thanks for the help.


crispy

 

Hi guys (and Gals?),
Had to tell the kid to get his own screen name so look for Nickrispy to reply for himself.
We got the power rack mocked up today and it looks like the shaft will fit fine. We have to cut the "skid plate" off the cross member and move it down a bit. This is for two reasons, 1 the rack needs the room to be mounted properly, 2 the pan sits about 1 1/2" below it anyway. The kid drives like a nut so I want some steel in front of the cast pan.
With the way things look, the rack lets the engine sit very low to the frame, the stock Camero accy drives fit without notching, and the steering shaft from the rack to the old rag joint lines right up. If we replace the rag joint with a small shaft and 2 U-joints the whole thing will fit right behind the stock alt.
I'm making sure the kid makes two of everything so that when we have it completed, we can copy the parts and offer them to others that want to have R+P. I should have some pics to post in the next couple of days.... Chris

 

What rack are you using? I haven't been able to find one that is short enough in the middle so that the joints on the rack line up with where the A-arms pivot but still has long enough tie rods to reach from wheel to wheel.

 

The rack is from a Mustang II with upper and lower control arms, not the struts. I really think this is gonna work. We have to get the measurements on the shaft that goes into the rack itself, there are to different lengths. As for the width of the rack, it looks good so far, we have to get it mocked up to tell if it will have enough travel to get the wheels to turn correctly. I'll keep you posted and post pics as soon as I can...Chris

 

Yea that is another thing I noticed when checkin out racks was travel. Seemed like all the ones I looked at would have made my turning radius worse....and it is already bad enough as it is