Infamous

Alright...here's where I'm confused. In the now famous "Basics" thread posted by 67RSCamaroVette, he talks about notching his oil pan to fit into the frame but doesn't mention modifying the pickup tube or whether he was able to still use the baffle. I talked to S&P and they said I have to send my pickup tube for them to modify and that the baffle will be eliminated as a result of the modification. Now I read on here that eliminating the baffle is not a good thing and could starve the engine of oil. So I guess what I'm asking is.....is there anyone here using the modified pan from S&P and are you having any problems with the baffle missing? Also...did any of you DIYers have to modify the pickup and eliminate the baffle?

Not sure if I want to just spend an extra hundred for the Autokraft pan or if I'm worrying about nothing.

Thanks.

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Don't do it, Stu S on the P/T board was selling his pan over there, go find the thread, it's interesting, get a piece of pipe have some weld it inline, and modify the windage tray, Thats my plan or buy the Auto Craft pan, but my buddy has a welding business and will weld anything for free,

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

I have the S&P 1st Gen notched pan with the modified pick-up and the baffle removed. I have nearly 3000 miles on my swap so far, have not experienced any problems. I don't thrash mine all that hard, like a road racer or hard drag racer. I have not noticed any drop in pressure when cornering or accelerating. That's my experience.

Pat

Infamous

Steve.....so you advise not to do it? I tried that oil pan over at PT.com...it was gone.

Nobody else is is using these pans that can comment? I find that hard to believe.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Why not modify the crossmember instead of the pan and solve this whole problem?

joelvette

iTrader: (11)

call and talk to brp (a sponser) i got a motor and tranny mount setup from them and i was able to use the stock f-body pan with out modding it or the frame. i did have to notch and box the frame for the a/c compressor. this was for a 73 firebird but give them a call. keeping your windage tray and stock pan is really better in the long run. besides since it set your engine back a little farther to clear the oil pan its better for the front/rear weight balance.

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

Tony, I wouldn't do it, I buy the Autocraft pan, or mod mine, dosent really look that hard, cutting and welding,

By the looks of the S&P Pan they cut to much off it and don't extend the P/U,

69LS1Camaro

You would be better off modding your own pan or buying a one from ATS or Autokraft.

This is an S&P pan.





With the S&P pan I did notice a drop in pressure under braking. At the time this was with STOCK 69 camaro disk brakes and crappy 215 tires.

While this may be true for 2nd gens, which have front steer, it is not completely true for 1st gens. The 1st gen BRP motor mounts and tranny mounts are to be use in conjunction with an f-body R&P mounted in front of the Axle as apposed to the rear. Also the BRP mounts will move your engine forward, not back.

Steve68

iTrader: (23)

I think S&P and BRP are more cruiser hot rods than performance orientated like ATS, Autocraft,

Infamous

Screw it. I'm biting the bullet and getting the AutoKraft pan. Thanks for the input guys.

72ChevelleConv.LS1

iTrader: (5)

I have a S&P Pan ans I didn't have a baffel for it. I had a oiling problem and lost my berings on two rods. I used ARP rod bolts too and didnt have the rods re sized after the install. I have sence rebuilt the motor and made a baffel just like the f body in shape but it fits the new sump and I plasma cut two 1" holes in the al reinforcementes in the pan too. After they move the pickup to the back of the pan. it looked like the oil has a real hard time making it back to their. and when I put the baffel on the pan it looked like no oil would get back their. I think I was loosing oil pressure under hard acceleration. and didn't see it cus I needed to look at the road. I also have now installed a sencer in the oil line to detect low oil pressure and installed led light on top of my dash. so if I am wide open I will see it on my dash.

ewingr

Interesting, and scarry. I have an S&P pan on my engine, a 2004 Corvette LS1, (not yet in the car) and their instructions specifically said I need a Camaro windage tray (baffle?). Then they sent me a Camaro tray when I told them it didn't come with it.

Then, with that tray in place, the pan wouldn't bolt on, as the pickup tube hit it. I called them, and Mark said there is not supposed to be a tray at all. He said with the new location of the pickup tube, that oil was well supplied.

So, the pan is on, no tray. After reading the above, I am nervous.

Anyone else using S&P and no windage tray? Do you have enough miles on it to feel good about it?

69blackwidow

iTrader: (1)

me 2. engine is in. f@#$ me mike

bczee

iTrader: (12)

GM puts many R&D hours into designing the oil system.. so to be hacking around can be bad news if not done correctly.. to not use a Baffle/Tray in the pan can and will cause oil pressure problems in hard acceleration and in turns. If S&P is cutting out the lower pan baffle.. I would be scared ! and from the sound of you guys who have the S&P pan and have problem, re-enforces my option not to use one.

my 2 cents.

leonpiper69

iTrader: (3)

i drilled out the spot welds on the baffle and removed the part that hit (i dont know what you call it), but i mesured how far back i could notch the pan untill the pickup tube gets in the way (i think i went like two inches). it looked good but it still hit a little so i tweaked it ever so gently with a rubber mallet and she fit good. but at least i have the baffle in. i havent run it yet but that should be ok. no?

please dont laugh at the welds (i learned how to tig on this pan)

72ChevelleConv.LS1

iTrader: (5)

Hear is a shot that explained what I did. I can not say that this pan was the problem but I can say that it cost alot to fix my problem. Ihave drove it a little hard sence I have rebuilt it but not real hard. I also got a new set of rods and pistons then new rings bearings including cam new oil pump and gaskets. I was not taking any chance. When I put watter in the pan and sloshed it around it was easy to see that their was a shortage of watter hitting the pickup. this is why I cut the holes. If I would of put the baffel plate I made on only, and no holes I think I would of made it a real problem. I think you MUST cut the holes if you put a plate on. I got my pan from a used source and I am not sure if it came with a plate from them. I didn't get one from him. S&P makes alot of great stuff. I cant say that this was my problem but this is my story.. I did install the baffel that goes on the Mains this is the plate that is on the oil pan that I am talking about

12thstreetjunkman

iTrader: (16)

bringing this back from the dead. I bought this pan/pickup I think it was copied off a s&p, first thing that threw up a red flag was the missing baffle. I didn't know if it was designed that way or what. Mine looks a bit different inside as the vertical baffles have been cut out as well. So would it be a wise idea to come up with some kind of baffle plate to put down there? I have some aluminum plate I was thinking about cutting a hole to put the pickup through and drill several 1" or so holes around it and attaching it to the bolt holes where the factory one went. Thanks for any help

1970-Cloned

iTrader: (1)

I think there is something to be said about hacking stuff and aftermarket products in general. Never as good as the factory stuff.

However I have an S&P pan, I will at least try it for a while....

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

IMO at $429 the Autocraft pan is a no brainer. Comes with everything and has good baffling.

If you use a modified pan, install a oil pressure gage and watch it. It you see something fishy during hard driving, you may need to change the pan.

1970-Cloned

iTrader: (1)

Is there anyone else that makes a pan that is similar to this?