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modifying a ls1 harness to a street rod

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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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Default modifying a ls1 harness to a street rod

hi I got a 1999 ls1 harness and motor I am going to be putting in my 69 camaro, does anyone have any info on what wires have to be cut out of the loom and what has to be added to it to make it useable. any web pages or help would be cool.

thanks in advance mike
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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and look in the sticky at the top.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 02:11 PM
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Not a popular option, but you could sell it and use the money towards a Painless Perfect system.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 04:45 PM
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Hi Mike.....

I used the info found in the sticky pages with fine results. It is a bit time consuming for the electrically challenged (like ME..!!) and will require some soldering skills, but if your on a budget.....hmmmmmm a few hours of my time researching and modding -vs- several hundred dollars from the experts......got alot more time than money here...lol. I had to extend all the wiring that goes to the right side of the motor about 20 inches to allow the relocation of the PCM. Mine works fine and even looks good.....I think. Now I have only been running in my garage, not on the road yet, but i dont think I will see any problems. I am FAR from an expert, but i had to give it try..!!!

DK
Attached Thumbnails modifying a ls1 harness to a street rod-harness-after.jpg   modifying a ls1 harness to a street rod-harness-before.jpg  
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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the amount of info in the sticky can be overwhelming. and some of it is conflicting on what you can/should remove. The bottom line is you don't need to remove anything! Some things you may just not hook up. I'm using a '99 Fbody LS1 engine harness completely unmodified. I bought a Metripack connector kit from Caspers and use that to make a new harness to connect to C100 (10 pin black), C101 (10 pin grey), and C105 (8 pin black). I had to clip the key off of C101 to get it to mate with a standard black Metripack connector from the Caspers kit. For C220 (10 pin white) and C230 (10 pin blue), the person who sold me the engine/trans/harness was nice enough to include the connectors from the interior side along with foot of wiring still attached. If he hadn't included the other side of C220 and C230, I would have cut them off and run the pins I needed to a Metripack. Finally, disconnect the purple wire on the starter and run your original wire down there (or cut the connector off the LS1 wire and splice your original wire to it). The big purple starter wire isn't tied to the PCM or anything--it just runs straight to the starter. You'll also need to grab an OBDII connector from under the dash of any 98+ GM car.

I merged a bunch of different docs together from threads on here to come up with the way I wired mine. Having it listed out pin by pin of what to hook up was a lot easier for me than reading a schematic (or worse, reading one of those things than mentioned every pin on the PCM connectors!). Some day I'll go back and cut open the LS1 harness and extend all of the PCM wires so I can mount the PCM somewhere inside the car instead of on the fenderwell.

Here's my merged doc:
http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/Rodders...ess_Hookup.doc
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cnichols
Not a popular option, but you could sell it and use the money towards a Painless Perfect system.
That's what I did, but had Speartech make one for me instead of Painless. Absolutely no regrets here, fits perfect, looks great and it fired on the first try. John is also very helpful if you should run into any problems. He helped me troubleshoot my cruise control, turned out I had a bad switch.

Pat
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:23 AM
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Rodder - couldn't have said it better myself. I did exactly what he said and had no wiring issues. Make sure you use a resistor on the alternator wire to act as the factory idiot light. The painless stand alone fuse panels work well for the fuses needed (I think there is six total) and buy a few relays. On an old camaro you'll want to run new gauges for oil pressure and water temp. The tach uses a signal from computer (although mine jumps around at idle) and the electronic speedo should work with the VSS (again at low speeds mine steps down to zero instead of ramping done correctly). Still trying to figure this little problem out. If anyone knows please tell me!

That's is my two cents. Good luck!
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 09:01 AM
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/\ /\ You only need to use a resistor on a 98 harness. On the 99+ harness the alternator signal is taken care of by the PCM.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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I would have Speartech do it. He is awesome at it. He reworked my harness when I went from a LT1 to LS1 a few years back, it was plug and play. Excellent quality and work. Very nice guy to deal with to
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 06:22 PM
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LS1 57 The pics you posted on the right is that the before and the left is the after ? Not sure if this is a job I want to try or send it to the pros. Thanks
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 07:54 PM
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lol.....right photo is before and left is after......guess its kinda hard to tell...! I only kept those wires that were needed, eliminated all others and routed a few differently. Good luck on your decision..!!

DK
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