Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Have a couple of questions- Gbodies

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Feb 20, 2007 | 01:27 AM
  #1  
VinMan2's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Ridge, IL.
Default Have a couple of questions- Gbodies

It has probably been covered but I can't find it using search.I will be dropping a 2004 5.3/4L60E into my 85 Buick regal. I will be using the fbody oil pan, but can't seem to find an oil pick up tube or a part number for it. Will I need to use the ls1 oil pump or will it work with the 5.3? Also does anyone know if the truck accessory drive set up will clear the front crossmember?I have already contacted mr John B about my mounts and modded oil pan. Just need to figure out the pick up tube, fuel lines and the questions above and then should be good to go. Thanks for any help.
Reply
Old Feb 20, 2007 | 05:29 AM
  #2  
LS1MCSS's Avatar
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (18)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,831
Likes: 8
From: Dover, Arkansas
Default

I just knoched and boxed the front frame cross member. You can use the f-body oil pan without any mods to it that way. Shoenfeld makes headers that they say will fit. We'll find out soon if they fit because another member is putting a 418 in his car and is using these headers. You need a fuel sender for a Monte Carlo with a 4.3 TBI, so you can add an intank pump. I am running a Walbro 255 and haven't had any problems at all with it.
Reply
Old Feb 20, 2007 | 08:23 AM
  #3  
Darracq's Avatar
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 364
Likes: 1
Default

I just moved my engine back to clear the pan and made my own mounts,pretty easy really,
Reply
Old Feb 20, 2007 | 10:08 AM
  #4  
G-Body's Avatar
sawzall wielding director
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,147
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Default

Oil system GM Part numbers (from GM LS1 installation guide, PN 88959384, page 9)

F-body Oil Pan: 12558762
F-body Oil Pump Pickup: 12558251
F-body Windage Tray: 12558253
F-body Dipstick: 12551581
F-body Dipstick Tube: 12551577

I copied those PN`s out of the FAQ sticky.
The 5.3L oil pump will work.
The truck accys should clear the crossmember, mine have plenty of room there, but the alternator and EVAP purge solenoid will be very close to the hood. My alt clears by less than a half inch and I had to move the EVAP purge solenoid.
Reply
Old Feb 21, 2007 | 02:10 AM
  #5  
VinMan2's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Ridge, IL.
Default

Thanks for the part numbers G-body. I am going with john's parts cause I have been telling him I was buying for a long time then my first project got flooded in katrina and was all mucked up. Now for the fuel lines, there are two factory lines running down the passenger side that cross the front crossmember to the driver side. Will I need to change those completely? LS1MCSS you have a baffled tank with the walbro? I have found plenty of used tanks/sending units but they won't ship. Then there are the aftermarket tanks on ebay but a little leary of fit and quality.
Reply
Old Feb 21, 2007 | 12:42 PM
  #6  
VinMan2's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Ridge, IL.
Default

I forgot something, I have a 8,000 mile ls6 cam laying around here. worth installing? Would obviously need different lifters? Let me know what you think. Thanks.
Reply
Old Feb 22, 2007 | 02:00 AM
  #7  
VinMan2's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Ridge, IL.
Default

I snapped a couple of pics of the fuel lines today on is 3/8" and the is 1/4" those are o.d. Then it looks like there is a third that runs in the frame rail can't really see where it goes. The 3/8" line runs to the where the factory charcoal canister was mounted, the 1/4" and the incredible dissapearing lines stop at where the stock pump was located on the block. Here is a pic I have more if needed.[IMG][/IMG]
Reply
Old Feb 22, 2007 | 10:04 AM
  #8  
G-Body's Avatar
sawzall wielding director
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,147
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Default

You don`t need to change the steel lines, but I probably would just because it is easier to do now with everything out of the way and chances are they have rust on them somewhere. I ran my lines down the pass side and then switched to flexible plastic about halfway to the front. I then ran the lines up across the top of the trans and came up by the back of the intake manifold.

You might have enough room to run them under the motor like they are now, which would make for a cleaner install.

The LS6 cam is probably worth flipping in while the motor is out. You will pick up power and it is easy enough to put in. The lifters do not need to be replaced because they are roller lifters. You will need different length pushrods though. There are a bunch of threads on the performancetrucks site about this cam swap. Just search for LS6 cam or vette cam
Reply
Old Feb 22, 2007 | 10:45 PM
  #9  
VinMan2's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Ridge, IL.
Default

Ok, I am going to look into the push rods. Figured I would use just wasn't sure what was involved. Not ot mention its free power(other than pushrod cost).
Reply
Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:12 PM
  #10  
jeepinpete's Avatar
On The Tree
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
From: Quakertown, PA
Default

IMHO, I would hold off on the cam swap until you have the engine running in its new home. Things rarely work perfectly the first time, and leaving the engine stock initially just means one less thing to worry about diagnosing if it doesn't start.
Reply
Old Feb 23, 2007 | 07:07 PM
  #11  
G-Body's Avatar
sawzall wielding director
20 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Shutterbug
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,147
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Default

Yes and no. I swapped my engine in as a stocker because I was short on time and cash. I planned on installing it stock so that I knew it should fire up without any problems, and because I had a warranty from the junkyard. It sounded like a good idea at the time, and I figured I could always do a cam swap. The 4th gen guys can do it in ~4 hours so it shouldn`t be that bad in my car that has a larger engine bay...........while now that a year has passed I wish I swapped the cam while the engine was out. I am going to swap the the cam, probably this week, but now that it is in the car I cannot change the timing chain. My oil pan sits too close to the frame, and I cannot drop it to pull the oil pump off and get to the timing chain . Good thing I am swapping a small cam in, this chain has 140K on it.

There are benefits to both ways.
Reply
Old Feb 28, 2007 | 10:44 PM
  #12  
VinMan2's Avatar
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Ridge, IL.
Default

Decided to leave it stock. I checked the stock lines and they look great. I am still going to order a 3/8 prebent return line from inlinetube.com it's only $130.00 shipped. The uncle sam tax check should be in soon. I can't wait to get the rest of the parts I need to get this going.
Reply




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:52 PM.