HELP from any stang swappers
03-01-2007, 09:55 PM
#21
Originally Posted by tirefryin_s10
sorry the previous post might have been a bit harsh but just think about it just because you say it doesnt work doesnt mean that its not possible................ here is the quote from Turbo mustangs .. i would post the link but not sure that im allowed
" I USED STOCK K-MEMEMBER. ONLY THING I HAD TO DO WAS CUT OUT JUST A LITTLE BIT TO CLEAR THE OIL PAN,IT WASNT ENOUGH TO HURT ANYTHING. U SHOULD BE OK DOING THAT ."
" I USED STOCK K-MEMEMBER. ONLY THING I HAD TO DO WAS CUT OUT JUST A LITTLE BIT TO CLEAR THE OIL PAN,IT WASNT ENOUGH TO HURT ANYTHING. U SHOULD BE OK DOING THAT ."
i'll post the link then................
http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/ind...1493#msg671493
un-edited quotes.....
I USED STOCK K-MEMEMBER. ONLY THING I HAD TO DO WAS CUT OUT JUST A LITTLE BIT TO CLEAR THE OIL PAN,IT WASNT ENOUGH TO HURT ANYTHING. U SHOULD BE OK DOING THAT .
The car still uses the stock k-member and the LS1 mounts were welded to it. No pics of it.
vanilla89
because apparently you're not a know it all either!!! although you wouldn't know it by the way you shoot your mouth off!!!!!!! 
Last edited by PRAY HRD; 03-01-2007 at 10:15 PM.
03-02-2007, 11:54 AM
#23
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.....well I dont want to start or fuel any arguments on here...
So I will first say this. I have swapped ls1's into multiple mustangs...and I am an expert on anything I say as I've done over a dozen ls1 conversions alone on customers cars not to mention the Mc'Million builds on fbodies/vettes.
1) Yes a stock K-member will work fine. It literally takes 30 seconds of modification with the plasma cutter to make it fit fine or 10 minutes with a cutoff wheel.
I HIGHLY recommend a tubular k-member. Its a whole whopping $225 for a QA1. That is going to make your life much easier, improve room everywhere for working on it under the car and make the headers fit that much more easier. Dont be so cheap that you wont put $225 into the most useful part to making the swap easy.
Plus when you go tubular, just use a 4.6l k-member and then factory 4.6l motor mounts work without much work..even better.
2) I used a truck pan in my 90 lx due to the way I have the turbo oil return lines plumbed. This is with a PA tubular k-member It fits just fine. Hangs lower than a fbody pan yes, but not so low as to be a problem or ground clearance issue on my non-lowered front end.
3) I have the stock gauges in my dash cluster hooked up in my 90 lx. Im not into autometer tachs/gauges everywhere. I only have some a/c vent mounted boost/fuel pressure gauges. Just use the factory ford senders oil pres/water temp/alternator. I even have a little setup that makes the factory speedo work off the TH400 that a local speedometer shop setup for me. Factory fuel level sender in my Aeromotive gas tank. The only hard part was getting the signal right for the tach (which buries rediculously when I run it up to 7200 rpm..)
4) No I didnt retain the starter solenoid on the fender. I just hooked up the starter direct and ran the trigger wire off the key /w a relay etc.. Starter solenoid makes the engine bay look bad plus I dont like it in the fender wells and its extra weight.
5) Quit all your arguing, we are here to help each other. Pissing matches do nothing to improve the information provided in these posts.
I just want to make sure I have the fastest LSx based stang
So I will first say this. I have swapped ls1's into multiple mustangs...and I am an expert on anything I say as I've done over a dozen ls1 conversions alone on customers cars not to mention the Mc'Million builds on fbodies/vettes.
1) Yes a stock K-member will work fine. It literally takes 30 seconds of modification with the plasma cutter to make it fit fine or 10 minutes with a cutoff wheel.
I HIGHLY recommend a tubular k-member. Its a whole whopping $225 for a QA1. That is going to make your life much easier, improve room everywhere for working on it under the car and make the headers fit that much more easier. Dont be so cheap that you wont put $225 into the most useful part to making the swap easy.
Plus when you go tubular, just use a 4.6l k-member and then factory 4.6l motor mounts work without much work..even better.
2) I used a truck pan in my 90 lx due to the way I have the turbo oil return lines plumbed. This is with a PA tubular k-member It fits just fine. Hangs lower than a fbody pan yes, but not so low as to be a problem or ground clearance issue on my non-lowered front end.
3) I have the stock gauges in my dash cluster hooked up in my 90 lx. Im not into autometer tachs/gauges everywhere. I only have some a/c vent mounted boost/fuel pressure gauges. Just use the factory ford senders oil pres/water temp/alternator. I even have a little setup that makes the factory speedo work off the TH400 that a local speedometer shop setup for me. Factory fuel level sender in my Aeromotive gas tank. The only hard part was getting the signal right for the tach (which buries rediculously when I run it up to 7200 rpm..)
4) No I didnt retain the starter solenoid on the fender. I just hooked up the starter direct and ran the trigger wire off the key /w a relay etc.. Starter solenoid makes the engine bay look bad plus I dont like it in the fender wells and its extra weight.
5) Quit all your arguing, we are here to help each other. Pissing matches do nothing to improve the information provided in these posts.
I just want to make sure I have the fastest LSx based stang
03-02-2007, 12:52 PM
#25
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i will be using flipped manifolds on my turbo set up so header clearance is of no importantance to me .... the reason I would like to run the stock k is because the money going into that will be enough to finish the turbo set up etc im on a tight budget and want it done for spring, i may still go with a 4.6 k memberand 4.6 mounts , motorbuilt can you maybe send me some pics of the truck pan in there also the turbo set up? sounds alot like what im doing also whats this little box for the speedo? - thx alot for posting USEFUL information
03-02-2007, 01:47 PM
#26
Originally Posted by motorbuilt
.....well I dont want to start or fuel any arguments on here...
So I will first say this. I have swapped ls1's into multiple mustangs...and I am an expert on anything I say as I've done over a dozen ls1 conversions alone on customers cars not to mention the Mc'Million builds on fbodies/vettes.
1) Yes a stock K-member will work fine. It literally takes 30 seconds of modification with the plasma cutter to make it fit fine or 10 minutes with a cutoff wheel.
I HIGHLY recommend a tubular k-member. Its a whole whopping $225 for a QA1. That is going to make your life much easier, improve room everywhere for working on it under the car and make the headers fit that much more easier. Dont be so cheap that you wont put $225 into the most useful part to making the swap easy.
Plus when you go tubular, just use a 4.6l k-member and then factory 4.6l motor mounts work without much work..even better.
2) I used a truck pan in my 90 lx due to the way I have the turbo oil return lines plumbed. This is with a PA tubular k-member It fits just fine. Hangs lower than a fbody pan yes, but not so low as to be a problem or ground clearance issue on my non-lowered front end.
3) I have the stock gauges in my dash cluster hooked up in my 90 lx. Im not into autometer tachs/gauges everywhere. I only have some a/c vent mounted boost/fuel pressure gauges. Just use the factory ford senders oil pres/water temp/alternator. I even have a little setup that makes the factory speedo work off the TH400 that a local speedometer shop setup for me. Factory fuel level sender in my Aeromotive gas tank. The only hard part was getting the signal right for the tach (which buries rediculously when I run it up to 7200 rpm..)
4) No I didnt retain the starter solenoid on the fender. I just hooked up the starter direct and ran the trigger wire off the key /w a relay etc.. Starter solenoid makes the engine bay look bad plus I dont like it in the fender wells and its extra weight.
5) Quit all your arguing, we are here to help each other. Pissing matches do nothing to improve the information provided in these posts.
I just want to make sure I have the fastest LSx based stang
So I will first say this. I have swapped ls1's into multiple mustangs...and I am an expert on anything I say as I've done over a dozen ls1 conversions alone on customers cars not to mention the Mc'Million builds on fbodies/vettes.
1) Yes a stock K-member will work fine. It literally takes 30 seconds of modification with the plasma cutter to make it fit fine or 10 minutes with a cutoff wheel.
I HIGHLY recommend a tubular k-member. Its a whole whopping $225 for a QA1. That is going to make your life much easier, improve room everywhere for working on it under the car and make the headers fit that much more easier. Dont be so cheap that you wont put $225 into the most useful part to making the swap easy.
Plus when you go tubular, just use a 4.6l k-member and then factory 4.6l motor mounts work without much work..even better.
2) I used a truck pan in my 90 lx due to the way I have the turbo oil return lines plumbed. This is with a PA tubular k-member It fits just fine. Hangs lower than a fbody pan yes, but not so low as to be a problem or ground clearance issue on my non-lowered front end.
3) I have the stock gauges in my dash cluster hooked up in my 90 lx. Im not into autometer tachs/gauges everywhere. I only have some a/c vent mounted boost/fuel pressure gauges. Just use the factory ford senders oil pres/water temp/alternator. I even have a little setup that makes the factory speedo work off the TH400 that a local speedometer shop setup for me. Factory fuel level sender in my Aeromotive gas tank. The only hard part was getting the signal right for the tach (which buries rediculously when I run it up to 7200 rpm..)
4) No I didnt retain the starter solenoid on the fender. I just hooked up the starter direct and ran the trigger wire off the key /w a relay etc.. Starter solenoid makes the engine bay look bad plus I dont like it in the fender wells and its extra weight.
5) Quit all your arguing, we are here to help each other. Pissing matches do nothing to improve the information provided in these posts.
I just want to make sure I have the fastest LSx based stang
I call BS, post some pics..............
03-02-2007, 02:46 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by GlennNo50
It is probably alot easier to get away with a stock k-member when you are using turbo headers instead of regular long tubes.???????
I run a 5" down pipe straight down with a bullet muffler in front the front tire.
03-02-2007, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tirefryin_s10
i will be using flipped manifolds on my turbo set up so header clearance is of no importantance to me .... the reason I would like to run the stock k is because the money going into that will be enough to finish the turbo set up etc im on a tight budget and want it done for spring, i may still go with a 4.6 k memberand 4.6 mounts , motorbuilt can you maybe send me some pics of the truck pan in there also the turbo set up? sounds alot like what im doing also whats this little box for the speedo? - thx alot for posting USEFUL information
I dont know on the speedo setup actually. There is a speedometer place that mainly works on big rig stuff in my city. I took them the car and they rigged up the parts to the tranny to run the factory speedo cable.
Hope I was able to help..
For the BS caller....good luck with that, you just keep calling anything you want
Last edited by motorbuilt; 03-02-2007 at 02:58 PM.
03-02-2007, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by PRAY HRD
vanilla89 because apparently you're not a know it all either!!! although you wouldn't know it by the way you shoot your mouth off!!!!!!!
because apparently you're not a know it all either!!! although you wouldn't know it by the way you shoot your mouth off!!!!!!! 
03-02-2007, 07:49 PM
#32
i just don't understand what made you say it.....can you justify it at least????? if so, i'll gladly keep out of topics. but fyi, i had a coupe roller that i had a cage installed on and was fully prepared to take on an lsx swap, but this car became available and was only 20 minutes from my house, so why not!so you can make all the unjustified, unfounded comments you want and look like a complete moron, that's your right and i can't stop you. but at least try to think twice before attacking me or anyone else unless you have something to back it up with other than.......oh, uhhhh.......well he's never done it so blah blah blah....
Last edited by PRAY HRD; 03-02-2007 at 08:42 PM.
03-03-2007, 10:25 PM
#34
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well i set the truck pan in the car last night and with the pan sitting right on the rack there is LOTS of rrom front to back side to side and ground cleanrance wise...........
03-04-2007, 02:03 PM
#35
Originally Posted by motorbuilt
I HIGHLY recommend a tubular k-member. Its a whole whopping $225 for a QA1. That is going to make your life much easier, improve room everywhere for working on it under the car and make the headers fit that much more easier. Dont be so cheap that you wont put $225 into the most useful part to making the swap easy.
Plus when you go tubular, just use a 4.6l k-member and then factory 4.6l motor mounts work without much work..even better.
