non baffled tank?
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Teching In
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 44
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From: south bay
non baffled tank? i'm building a '69 chevelle w/ a '04 lq9... is it completely necessary to add baffles to my fuel tank? (READ: i plan on using a stock style tank, no B-body tank, also, the tank is new so i wont blow myself up welding on it)...
i know the purpose they serve, but if i monitor the fuel level and always keep a certain amount (1/4 tank) will i really have a problem? my buddy has a mustang cobra engine in his '69 cougar w/out baffles and has no problems, but his has only been running for a few weeks, so long term testing has yet to reveal any fuel starvation problems...
has anyone had experience with these? http://apeusa.com/html/pickups.html
so shoudl i add baffles, or get a couple of those pickups?
i know the purpose they serve, but if i monitor the fuel level and always keep a certain amount (1/4 tank) will i really have a problem? my buddy has a mustang cobra engine in his '69 cougar w/out baffles and has no problems, but his has only been running for a few weeks, so long term testing has yet to reveal any fuel starvation problems...
has anyone had experience with these? http://apeusa.com/html/pickups.html
so shoudl i add baffles, or get a couple of those pickups?
You should be ok, for DD and highway ... ... as long as you don't make any hard Turns, stop or starts with a low fuel level.
A simple solution is the Tank Inc setup.. No real heavy tank mod's to do. Just cut a hole and mount the unit and your done. Search on other Chevelle guys that have the Tank INC. unit and pump too get a option from them and what they did to mount it.
But IMO.. I'd feel safer if I had the Baffles.
Good luck...
A simple solution is the Tank Inc setup.. No real heavy tank mod's to do. Just cut a hole and mount the unit and your done. Search on other Chevelle guys that have the Tank INC. unit and pump too get a option from them and what they did to mount it.
But IMO.. I'd feel safer if I had the Baffles.
Good luck...
Originally Posted by Novas Forever
I just modified a stock '99 F-body pump assembly for my Chevy II. Not a big deal to modify and I feel like I have a factory-like setup.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
I don`t have pics of that exact application, but there are pics of a late model camaro sending unit in a delta 88 tank here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/716267/3
The nice thing about doing that is you don`t have to worry about having a baffled tank B/C the f-body sending unit has a venturi system and bucket to keep the pump submerged.
The nice thing about doing that is you don`t have to worry about having a baffled tank B/C the f-body sending unit has a venturi system and bucket to keep the pump submerged.
Originally Posted by G-Body
I don`t have pics of that exact application, but there are pics of a late model camaro sending unit in a delta 88 tank here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/716267/3
The nice thing about doing that is you don`t have to worry about having a baffled tank B/C the f-body sending unit has a venturi system and bucket to keep the pump submerged.
The nice thing about doing that is you don`t have to worry about having a baffled tank B/C the f-body sending unit has a venturi system and bucket to keep the pump submerged.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 360
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City metro area
I am using a new stock replacement tank for my Nova and a '99 F-bdoy pump assembly. I cut a hole in the deepest part of the tank (front) so the assembly would fit in(it is cut but not beautifil). The assembly was too long so I took it apart, trimmed some material off of the cup and remover the pump to outlet hose. I purchased fuel injection hose and replaced the hose I cut with it to get the assemply the hieght I need. I did not use the original outlet or vent since I needed the space. I used a brass 3/8 inch hose 90 degree and cut a hole directly above the fuel pump outlet so I could hook them up. The fuel injection hose does not bend easily and there was very little room. I hooked the small 1/8 inch primer hose back up so the bucket would stay full as designed from the factory(carefully heat up the stock tubing and push it on the pump). I drilled holes in the pump assembly flange so it could be screwed down to the tank. With some j-nuts and a gasket it will be bolt on. I modified the fuel gauge sender since the stock pickup/sender is in the way of the new pump assembly. The sender will be screwed to the inside of the tank. That is how I did it.
Nova .. as in the Chevelle tanks and setups .. does the top of the sending (tubing and all) clear the trunk floor ? or do you need to clearence the floor (as I had to do with using a Impala tank). Many have put a notch in the tank to drop the top of the sending unit lower to avoid cutting up the trunk floor.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 360
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City metro area
indyjc - It was aropund 12" when I started. I bought the pump assembly used for $35 and the new tank was $135 plus $10 misc so about $180. Thanks for the good word.
bczee - I was wondering if someone would ask about clearance and you are correct there will have to be clearance made. I think I will cut only what is necessary out of the trunk floor and make a sheet metal cover for the spot that is raised for the clearance. A side benefit would be that if I screw the sheet metal cover down I could unscrew it to replace the pump if needed.
bczee - I was wondering if someone would ask about clearance and you are correct there will have to be clearance made. I think I will cut only what is necessary out of the trunk floor and make a sheet metal cover for the spot that is raised for the clearance. A side benefit would be that if I screw the sheet metal cover down I could unscrew it to replace the pump if needed.
Originally Posted by Novas Forever
indyjc - It was aropund 12" when I started. I bought the pump assembly used for $35 and the new tank was $135 plus $10 misc so about $180. Thanks for the good word.
bczee - I was wondering if someone would ask about clearance and you are correct there will have to be clearance made. I think I will cut only what is necessary out of the trunk floor and make a sheet metal cover for the spot that is raised for the clearance. A side benefit would be that if I screw the sheet metal cover down I could unscrew it to replace the pump if needed.
bczee - I was wondering if someone would ask about clearance and you are correct there will have to be clearance made. I think I will cut only what is necessary out of the trunk floor and make a sheet metal cover for the spot that is raised for the clearance. A side benefit would be that if I screw the sheet metal cover down I could unscrew it to replace the pump if needed.
Last edited by kdawgmfic; Mar 22, 2007 at 08:00 PM.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
I fabed a tank for my 66 c-10 and used the stock 5.3 fuel pump and did not baffle the tank. I have run the truck to almost empty many times and have never had any problems. I figured since the stock 05 tank wasnt baffled why should mine be. It will be fine.
Nova... yeah, I cut the truck floor out for the Sending unit/lines. And that is what I did created a pan and screwed it do for access in the future problems. If I remember correctly.. another chevelle guy (Blackrose90 ?) did a great job of cutting and fab'in up a hump. He posted it in a few threads..
You should be able to see what I did in my Cardomain project, the URL is in my sig..
You should be able to see what I did in my Cardomain project, the URL is in my sig..
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 360
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City metro area
bczee I should have done Cardomain but I guess I am too lazy! The pan or cover will work out fine. As far as the gasket goes I will make my own either out of cork or rubber, not sure yet.
Nova.. I used rubber on both sides of the Floor pan.
I built a frame that matches the shape of the cover, attached U-Nuts were the screw hole locations are. I then attached the frame to the under side of the floor pan. Then just screw the cover down from the inside. I used smaller round torq or hex headed screws to attach.
If I had better sheet metal forming skills, I think I would have made the cover with rounded edges.
I built a frame that matches the shape of the cover, attached U-Nuts were the screw hole locations are. I then attached the frame to the under side of the floor pan. Then just screw the cover down from the inside. I used smaller round torq or hex headed screws to attach.
If I had better sheet metal forming skills, I think I would have made the cover with rounded edges.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 131
Likes: 3
My tank isn't baffled and it's never given me any grief, and it's an odd shape...it's behind the seat, vertical in the cab. Not very deep (front-to-back) so I don't need to worry about sloshing fuel on a drag run, but it's tall and very wide. I've run it down to where the gauge says empty (which, if this AutoMeter reads like the stock gauge did, is probably about 1/8 of a tank in reality) and it's fine.
I'm not even running an in-tank pump, either. However, paranoia has made me wonder if it wouldn't be a bad idea to make a small reserve tank (like 1/2 gallon or maybe even smaller) and feed that with a high volume, low pressure pump, much like my Volvo's stock fuel setup.
I'm not even running an in-tank pump, either. However, paranoia has made me wonder if it wouldn't be a bad idea to make a small reserve tank (like 1/2 gallon or maybe even smaller) and feed that with a high volume, low pressure pump, much like my Volvo's stock fuel setup.