Okay, we don't have a lot to show today, have been mostly working out how we want the wiring harness to route, and exactly where we want relays and such. Got the oil pressure siphon tube picked up today, and still have not figured out what we want to do with the HUGE stock coolant sensor for the 67 Console gauge. Here are a few pics showing the pass inner fenderwell sitting on the subframe and the proposed computer location. We would love to see how other have mounted the computer down.


Started looking at remoting the cable-X dip switches to allow for easier changes when we update the rear end.

The bezel for the shift boot came in today. It looks good, but I forgot to account for the thickness of the leather, so the fitment is off. It will work for CarCraft nationals, but a new bezel will have to be cut for the interior restoration. Note that the bezel has not been polished, and the leather has not been cut down yet. This is literally just a quick what does the whole thing look like. We like the idea.



We need to grind the Mcleod shifter a little for clearance of the bolt and front rail. Sent the 45 degree thermostat housing back to S&P and ordered the 15 degree. Don't know what I was thinking. We got several items on order at Ricks, and committed to the modern variable speed wiper kit. We found a great spot for the fuel pump relay, and even though it isn't our favorite choice, it looks like the computer is going on the inner fenderwell. Starting to worry a bit about the heater hoses clearing everything. The return from the heater core may need to be bent a little to clear the #8 coilpack. We are still looking for a decent spark plug wire solution. Called on the Z06 plug wires, they are $120! It is what it is, but that seems high for a GM wireset to me. The Taylor ThunderVolts are half that. We will still keep looking...

 

I trimmed the F-body PCM bracket, drilled 3 holes in it, and bolted it through the inner fender. I had to put a spacer under forward/bottom corner. It's not very clean. Also, if you're going to put it there, you may want to wait until you reassemble the front end. I originally had mine centered on the inner fender, and the hood hinge hit it when I finally put the hood back on.

The slick setup is to extend harness so you can put the PCM somewhere in the passenger compartment, like on the transmission tunnel under the dash, or under the passenger seat.

 

Rodder, we where already talking about putting the fenders and core support on to help us route wires. Been trying to remember where the hinge hits. We don't have the computer bracket from the donor, so we either have to make something or go junkyarding. Next time, we will do a custom length harness and place the computer wherever we want, we did not realize how short the cable would be. It should look pretty decent on the fenderwell, and besides, why try to hide what it is? That computer is what makes it all work. As for under dash, we looked and looked for several days, and there just isn't enough room under there to pull it off without loosing the glovebox. The trans tunnel won't work either because of the console and gauges, there isn't enough room. The heater box and ducting take up a lot of space. We will look again though, we have enough harness that we could get into the cab, we just don't see a great place to mount the box. Did some grinding on the Mcleod, and can get it into gear now. Really not very happy with the SlickStix shifter. While it does relocate, the engineers obviously never actually tried to use it, it hits itself at the bezel, on the red plate, and also hits the through bolt when you try to hit reverse. For $340, I expected much better.

 

Is the SlickStix meant for the S&P mounts or the BRP mounts? BRP puts the engine a couple of inches farther forward.

I snapped a couple of pics of my PCM mounting:
http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF4463.html
http://www.blown.net/ls1swap/DSCF4464.html

(yes, that's a piece of heater hose and there is a nylock in the middle of it--PCM was pretty loose in the chopped-up bracket and didn't want to hear it banging around)

I've heard that trucks have a bracket thats actually designed to be bolted down.

 

The other option is to mount it on the inner fender, or even on the firewall where the ac box would be, but just fab up some sort of cover to dress it a little so it is a little easier on the eyes. This is obviously not a 1st gen car, but might give an idea or 2 of some other mounting possabilities for your aplication.



I never made the cover for mine, but I was planning to do so. I ended up selling the car befor it was done.
Just trying anything that I can do to help you guys out.

 

gone Fishin'

 

All right, we had a few days off, now back to work. To really get a good handle on where we could get away with mounting the computer, we put the inner fender wells and pass. fender back on. It took a lot of re-building on the harness, but we got it to lay very nicely along the pass fender well. Rebuilt a lot more harness than we expected to, but the fourth gen layout is very different. Drilled the -10 holes in the computer out, added very long stainless cap screws, and got the computer mounted very solid. Got the starter wire converter over to weather pack connector, pretty happy with how that turned out. Mounted the fuel relay under the heater box, and started routing the wire back. Going through convoluted tubing like its going out of style... Under the dash, we got the 40 years of weirdness cleaned up, and got the console gauge conversion taken care of. It is worth every penny to buy the $85 conversion harness, the directions, while vague at times, are priceless. Mounted the fuses for the speartech harness near the booster, and dissasembled the OBDII port to get it into the car through a smaller hole. Wish it was about 4 inches longer, but we will get it mounted as best we can. Note to John if he reads this thread, if you send us a new sticker, we will mount it on the computer connector, otherwise she is taking it off as it is currently upside down. By the by, does anyone with a 67 still have any lettering on their fuseblock? If so, could we get a picture? Our block is totally faded. Pretty happy with our 1/2 day of work...

Mounting the computer

Rerouted the O2 harness

Ripping the wiring apart...

Finally have the passenger side wiring neat

Still a lot to do on the driver side though.

May look wierd, but have the conversion harness all done...

 

Got the DSE modern wiper motor conversion today from Rick's. For $300, I totally expected the new bezel and **** to look like the ***** in a 67 Camaro. That cheap aluminimum **** looks like ****. Wrong shape, style, color, feel, there is not a good thing to be said about it. Obviously, we are sending that whole assembly back, and will have to keep looking for a wiper solution that will work. Wonder if the 68 setup will work, they rotated the motor from 67 to 68. When I called DSE, they where surprised that I was unhappy with the ****. They offered to sell me more ***** to change the rest of the dash over to these cheap looking *****. The lady also argued with me that I must have the wrong ***** in my car, since they aren't plastic. I know a lot about Camaro's, and old cars in general, and these ***** are die-cast and chrome flashed. She wouldn't stop argueing that my car must have the wrong ***** in it since their **** is the correct appearance. Look in Ricks catalog, I have the right *****. First and last time I will do business with Detroit Speed and Engineering...

 

Here are the pics of the stupid ****...

Real on the left, awful on the right.

 

Okay, who has idea's on a wiper motor conversion? Thinking about trying to find a late model truck wiper motor with 2 speed. Looks like you just ground either the slow or fast pin on the motor and provide a positive. That would work with the switch, don't care about changing the holes to mount it, but wonder about the transmision assembly. Has anyone taken a stab at this one yet???

 

Here you go

 

Pheonix,
My wife says that you are the man!!!! Thanks for the very clear picture!

 

They make a setup that put the wiper motor inside the cowling and keeps the firewall clean. I've seen them on a couple of camaros around here.

 

I've seen some threads on it over on camaros.net. I think a couple of people have mounted a VW motor inside the cowl. Also seen a thread or two about crappy switch and ***** on the DSE kit.

 

After calming down a bit, and a bit of prompting by my creative wife, I decided to risk the $300, and take a few things apart (it is in my nature). Did a lot of searching for solutions, and didn't find anything that was acceptable. Unpacked the DSE stuff, and started thinking. After careful examination of the DSE switch, I determined that if I relieved the stock **** with a 1/4 drill, and hogged out the lock bezel, I could make it work. I used a wide uni-bit, and carefully hogged out the lock bezel until the spin nut from the switch would almost fit. Then I carefully centered the spin nut, and used a big drift to drive the 6 points into the lock bezel. This basically reduced the thread size to fit the new switch. Oddly enough, not only did it work, it worked very well. Switch is in, and motor is on. The top bolt is a bitch, it is very tiny, and you have to get an allen wrench on it inside the cowl. Overall, I am not very happy with the DSE solution, but didn't really find anything else I would be able to get working with my limited fab skills. She got a ton more wiring done while I was fiddling around, and things are starting to come together. Pheonix, thanks a bunch for the picture, it saved us the time of messing with ohming out the ignition switch. Not the most productive evening, but I gambled and appear to have won. We will see later. Still going to have to rig up something to drive a washy fluid pump, figure I can mount a universal pump next to the washer jar, and maybe we can add a little momentary switch under the dash for squirting. Shouldn't ever need it, but if we don't have it, a truck will fly by and somehow fling mud all over the windshield. Murphy watches us like a hawk...

edit: It has been known to rain mosquitos out here in MN as well....

 

67rsss, we picked up that 67 I talked to you about. Only rs though. Originally a 327 PG car. Looking into doing a LS1/4L60e conversion though. Seams the T56 is a headache and too pricey. I have a T56 in my 02 though so it will be nice to have something different. I will keep an eye on this thread and post up any updates.

 

Did you get a console in the car? The RS has the best look on a 67. You can always change a bit of badging, but it is pricey to add the headlights. Post some pics as soon as you can! You will have to start your swap thread soon... You are not kidding about the T56 adding a few headaches, it better be worth it! You will save a bit going with the auto on a pullout, they always run a bit less in cost. You will want to start thinking about how you want to do your cooling system. I don't know if the stock radiator is up to cooling that trans.

 

It is a roller so no running gear with the car (will most likely go with aftermarket radiator unless a factory LS1 unit works). It is in the middle of a resto so we are going to bring it down to metal and start the body work first. Although if we do a convrsion, we may just make the motor work first in case things get crazy in there. We have the full rs grill including hidaway doors for the headlights. We also have the console, seats (but no fold down rear seat, it was changed when it was a racecar), and dash cluster (but may be from rsss since it has a tach but I plan on using Autometer gauges in another cluster housing that is in the car).

My G'ma has a 67 vert base model and I prefer the rs look myself. We will have to cut holes in the lower back panel for the back up lights but have all the correct lights and trim for them. Only thing I do not like is it is red on red. I would like to be as close to RPO as possible, but not sure I can live with red.

I will have some stuff for sale when we determine inventory. We will have an extra front clip and suspension components for sure. The guy we bought it from put together a TON of original stuff that is hard to find. Not sure I will be using it all.

 

Wiring continues.... just starting to rebuild the front harness to modernize the folding headlamps, brighten the headlights, distribute +12V, and mount the stand alone fan relay harness. Promises to be an absolute joy... I will get pics of the wiper motor, Cable-X, and overall wiring so far up later tonight.

 

Here are a few shots of the state of the wiring so far. We where able to re-route the wires for the OBDII port to get our 4 inches. Almost everything on the firewall is done. Really like the hidden location for the Cable-X. The box you see on the drvr inner fender is the extension of the dip switches in the cable-X. It isn't mounted yet, but we may put it right next to the washer jar. Working out the relay box right now...

Cable-X is mounted.


Wires hanging around the driver side.


Nice and tidy on the pass side.


Wiper motor.


Getting busy aroung the booster...