Bowtie Boy

Whats the best way to go for a LS1 swap?

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

On an LSX engine id say stock because its made perfect. But if it was on an older Gen I motor with all the major flaws in voltage loss then Painless kit.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

www.spearco.com
nonsponsor link removed

Gen3Benz

iTrader: (4)

whoops, you meant...speartech.com
make your own or go with speartech.

Jake@EPP

You cant go wrong with Jon @ Speartech, we have gotten harness's from him for a while and they are all top notch quality, alot better then factory!

prdtr15

iTrader: (5)

what exactly are they changing up on the factory harness or making that is so much better then the factory

glock73110

iTrader: (1)

I have a painless on mine worked great marked well no problems I traded the stock one for lifetime tuning

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I built my own for my LQ4 swap..it runs. I added on alot of extras like Z06 85mm MAF, LS2 Fuel Injectors, other stuff. Harnesses are easy.

ALL UC2

iTrader: (4)

if everyone knew how easy it is to mod a stock harness, there would be alot of companys out of business. go with the stock one. save yourself alot of money.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

That's what I built mine from, just re-wired it.

s10-den

I know this is kinda far fetched,but just how many wires is there to hook to the donor truck,er,car using the stock harness?Starter,ignition,hot for the computer......????just wondering.If its impossible to answer off of the question,i understand..

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

It depends on what exactly you are using. If you are using a truck underhood fusebox and wiring harness you can have the engine running by hooking up ~5 wires, that doesn`t include gauges, cruise, A/C. I would say on the average f-body LS1 wiring harness including gauges ~20-30 wires would be a safe estimate.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I got my LS1 Harness for my swap down to 21 wires including Gauges. The LT1 has 2 less that you have to mess with to run and tune it. That's without AC, or any of the other non-essential crap.

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

If you want a basic harness to get your car running, then modifying a stock one is something to try. If you want all the functionality that the electronics can provide, then it's great to rely on someone who knows them inside and out. My harness runs my ETC throttle, cruise control, my 4L60E transmission, has a lead that raises my idle when the AC comes on, manages my alternator, had a relay for my fuel pump, had it's own fuse panel for the engine and came completely marked and ready to hook up. I had the extra set of O2 sensors removed along with all the other emissions connections that I did not need. It also came completely done in wire loom that I would consider show quality. It was made to my length specifications as well. My car fired on the first crank and has run perfect for over 3k miles now.

My harness came from Speartech. John was also very responsive to questions I had and helped me a bunch getting my cruise control working, my problem with my switch.

It was not cheap, but I felt it was money well spent to get my swap running with the least hassle.

Regarding Painless, they make great wiring products no doubt. But they tend to be one size fits all. If you want one that fits your needs exactly, either go with a custom harness maker, or give it a try yourself.

Pat

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Exactly, depends on how you are setting it up. I figured out how to put in the 85mm MAF, LS2 Injectors, and re-located a few things to make it run. It's all how much time you want to invest into it.

6_7_camaro

Stu Cool - Saw you driving your ride Saturday morning on Hwy 70. First time I saw the "Stu" in person.

"Cool" is an understatement

jannes_z-28

For my '69 I used the stock LS1 harness and modified it to fit my cars system.

One thing to consider is the connectors that is used to go to the cars system. The C100, C101, C105, C220 and C230. I got them from a donor car and by using them I didn't need to splice up the engineharness. Just connecting these wires to the car. I hooked it up through relays and nothing goes through the original system. 12V feed is directly from the battery, IGN HOT comes from the battery through a relay that is activated from the ign key. So there is not much that is dependent on the "old crappy system" as someone said.

Works great and is budgetfriendly.


Jan

95formulalt1

iTrader: (13)

i just sent out min to spear tech. its a 2000 harness. i am making it fit mine 95. $700!!

shifty`

iTrader: (3)

if you want plug and play my first choice would be Speartech, you absolutely cannot beat the quality of their harness and the provisions they provide.

If you are not an idiot and can figure out wiring like me and don't want to blow a freaking assload of cash on a harness, Current Performance down in florida has a standalone harness part number SA-1000, I just bought one, and, with a hacked harness (they hack harnesses too, and do good work FWIW) you can easily integrate your stock harness into the SA-1000 and use it for all of your fuses, relays etc.

I had Wait4Me do my program and harness hacking. I got my SA-1000 from Jared @ Current Performance, and I am really happy with my setup. I'm gutting my wires right now, as a matter of fact

slygy0

i have a painless on mine. quality was good, i wished it was wrapped for me but beggers cant be choosers for the price. comes with a vats, only 2 o2 sensor hook ups but everything else is there for the ls1 and it fits both an auto and a stick, kinda good if you plan on swaps down the line. 4 wires to hook to your car and its done, ignition power, ground, fuel pump and key. Turn it and it runs, pretty sweet if you ask me.