Magnus rocks
Re: Magnus rocks Thanks man! 
Got the engine in on monday, fired it up on saturday.. Wiring was a HUGE PITA.. I'll put up the conversion web page in time with what I did to the pinouts.
I still need to fix my coolat temp gauge and fuel level gauge.
It really helped not having A/C, AIR PUMP, EGR, EVAP, TCS and CRUISE... LOT less wiring.
Got the engine in on monday, fired it up on saturday.. Wiring was a HUGE PITA.. I'll put up the conversion web page in time with what I did to the pinouts.
I still need to fix my coolat temp gauge and fuel level gauge.
It really helped not having A/C, AIR PUMP, EGR, EVAP, TCS and CRUISE... LOT less wiring.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 138
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From: KC
Re: Magnus rocks I've got an extra 3pin coolant temp sensor if you need it- It would go to the rear passenger side and I think it'll send a signal you can use for a guage if I read your problem right
Re: Magnus rocks I have the one I can pull off from my V6.. I was thinking that was going to do it anyway...
Every time I tried to tap the gauge into the LS1 coolant sensor my engine would die. I was so nervous.. I was like.. WTF.. all my fuses are good and now my engine doesn't work.
I believe the coolatn sensor is in the driver side head near the front right?
What sucks is I did such an awesome job modifying my wiring harness and removing EVERY AIR/EVAP/EGR wire from the complete harness, and now I'm going to have this stray wire. lol :insert MSN IM crying face:
my god does it sound good though with stock manifolds, cats and open y-pipe
Every time I tried to tap the gauge into the LS1 coolant sensor my engine would die. I was so nervous.. I was like.. WTF.. all my fuses are good and now my engine doesn't work.
I believe the coolatn sensor is in the driver side head near the front right?
What sucks is I did such an awesome job modifying my wiring harness and removing EVERY AIR/EVAP/EGR wire from the complete harness, and now I'm going to have this stray wire. lol :insert MSN IM crying face:
my god does it sound good though with stock manifolds, cats and open y-pipe
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 138
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From: KC
Re: Magnus rocks The sensor on the drivers side is to the pcm I believe, while the pass side is also but has a provision for the third wire to the dash. It might be an optional thing, if yours only has 2 pins then for sure it's an option. If you are trying to go from the front one to your dash wouldn't it steal the signal the pcm relies on to check the engine temp causing it to die?
Re: Magnus rocks I didn't notice any sensor on the pass side rear.
I was just going to put the V6 sensor in place of the LS1 and crimp some wires.
I dunno why but the engine died when I taped the gauge into the signal wire.
I was just going to put the V6 sensor in place of the LS1 and crimp some wires.
I dunno why but the engine died when I taped the gauge into the signal wire.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 138
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From: KC
Re: Magnus rocks There is one back there, in the head about directly above the starter bracket- that would be where to get the signal. I think you should be able to reach it. Heads are the same, so the front one on the driver side will be in the rear on the pass side. There must be something in there or you'd be shooting radiator fluid everywhere. It's a dainty little connector..you probably accidentally chopped off the male end cleaning up your harness. Mine was a 3 prong, front was a 2. 
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
Re: Magnus rocks The best way is to buy the 98 LS1 Camaro 3 wire sensor. Then use the 3rd wire for your gage. You can't access the yellow wire for gage use; it's only for the computer. The LS1 only comes with a threaded in plug on the passenger side. You need to get a 3 wire sensor for the 98 LS1 because of the unique straight metric thread with copper sealing washer. I think about everything else GM uses is pipe thread.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Re: Magnus rocks Thanks Bob!
John, I have another question for you. I'm using the 99+ fuel tank/assembly. I just spliced the 2 black/grounds together and the gray and purple are still alone. I used my stock 97 v6 body harness. My fuel level gauge seemed to work with my 97 cluster but with my 98 cluster it just reads empty. If I unplug the whole tank it reads full. Any ideas? I see that there is PCM pin for fuel level input, but what about fuel output?
The 98 LS1's have the same style tank as I did though, not sure about the level sender though.
What do you recomend I do?
John, I have another question for you. I'm using the 99+ fuel tank/assembly. I just spliced the 2 black/grounds together and the gray and purple are still alone. I used my stock 97 v6 body harness. My fuel level gauge seemed to work with my 97 cluster but with my 98 cluster it just reads empty. If I unplug the whole tank it reads full. Any ideas? I see that there is PCM pin for fuel level input, but what about fuel output?
The 98 LS1's have the same style tank as I did though, not sure about the level sender though.
What do you recomend I do?
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
Re: Magnus rocks Yeah, the difference is that the 97 cluster is directly tied to the gage unit in the tank. With the 99 setup, the tank unit sends fuel level info to the PCM, and the PCM sends the info to the cluster over the serial data line.
The water temp info is handled the same way on the 99-up clusters. The PCM just samples the coolant temp internally and then sends the info to the cluster on the SAME serial data line. Thta's why the 98 used the 3 wire temp sensor; that was the only LS1 year where the cluster contains a "real" coolant temp gage.
If you are going to stay with the 99 cluster you need to wire the fuel level unit directly to the PCM (RED 54), and then tap into your serial data line and run a wire from it up to the gage cluster at "B6".
Then your fuel gage AND temp gage will work as designed.
The only downfall of the 99 and up cluster is that they are famous for being horribly inaccurate on the temp gage. That's because the reading is a serial data sampling instead of a real gage and sending unit like the 98 had. That was GM saving a few cents per car!!
The water temp info is handled the same way on the 99-up clusters. The PCM just samples the coolant temp internally and then sends the info to the cluster on the SAME serial data line. Thta's why the 98 used the 3 wire temp sensor; that was the only LS1 year where the cluster contains a "real" coolant temp gage.
If you are going to stay with the 99 cluster you need to wire the fuel level unit directly to the PCM (RED 54), and then tap into your serial data line and run a wire from it up to the gage cluster at "B6".
Then your fuel gage AND temp gage will work as designed.
The only downfall of the 99 and up cluster is that they are famous for being horribly inaccurate on the temp gage. That's because the reading is a serial data sampling instead of a real gage and sending unit like the 98 had. That was GM saving a few cents per car!!
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Re: Magnus rocks I just realize I said I have a 99 cluster. That is incorrect, I appologize. I have 98 cluster with 99 fuel tank assembly and 99 engine/pcm/harness. I used stock 97 V6 body and underhood harnesses.
I have the 98 cluster specifically for it's accuracy. I'm confident the coolant temp will work once I get the correct sensor but for some reason my fuel level gauge isn't working.
I know it's plugged in because when I unplug the fuel tank, the gauge goes to F..
Maybe my level sender is sticky.. but I remember with my 97 cluster it easily said I had half a tank in there..
I have the 98 cluster specifically for it's accuracy. I'm confident the coolant temp will work once I get the correct sensor but for some reason my fuel level gauge isn't working.
I know it's plugged in because when I unplug the fuel tank, the gauge goes to F..
Maybe my level sender is sticky.. but I remember with my 97 cluster it easily said I had half a tank in there..
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
Re: Magnus rocks Me too. You said you had a 99 cluster.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 33
From: Anderson, Indiana
Re: Magnus rocks Well, there may be a problem with the 98 cluster too. In 98 the fuel level signal goes from the tank to the PCM, and then a specific "fuel level signal" from the PCM to the gage. You are bypassing the PCM with your setup and you're probably not providing the correct, conditioned signal that the 98 PCM provides.
My guess is that you will either need to use your original cluster from the V6 (the tach is off and it probably has a low MPH speedo), OR get a cluster from a 97 Z28. Your tach will still be off, but you will have the high MPH speedo. Then get a Dakota Dgital tach calibrator ($69.95??) to set the tach correctly. Then all of your other gages will be correct.
There may be a way to get the 98 cluster working correctly, but I'm not seeing it right off.
My guess is that you will either need to use your original cluster from the V6 (the tach is off and it probably has a low MPH speedo), OR get a cluster from a 97 Z28. Your tach will still be off, but you will have the high MPH speedo. Then get a Dakota Dgital tach calibrator ($69.95??) to set the tach correctly. Then all of your other gages will be correct.
There may be a way to get the 98 cluster working correctly, but I'm not seeing it right off.
__________________
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
www.speartech.com
Re: Magnus rocks Thanks for the reply, that clears up a lot.
I wonder if I will be able to condition the signal... I'll try that or just go to a 97 cluster with a tach calibrator. I didn't know I could do that. Then I'd have an actually responsive tach for the LS1.
Laggy tachs suck.
I wonder if I will be able to condition the signal... I'll try that or just go to a 97 cluster with a tach calibrator. I didn't know I could do that. Then I'd have an actually responsive tach for the LS1.
Laggy tachs suck.
