BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

My Dad and I just picked up a 1967 RS Camaro we will be restoring together. In the process I will be converting to an LQX/A4 powertrain. I plan on adding an L92/L76 swap to that motor and (fitment permitting) using the mated 4L80e trans. I will post progress of pics and struggles and any parts we will not be using will be put up for sale. Please see below link for pics of the car in current state. Too many to post up over here. Other plans include a bolt in 4-link rear with 9" and upgraded front A-Arms with coil overs in all 4 corners. My goal is to keep it looking as original as it did off the showroom floor, but adding modern performance and stance. Power discs all around are also going in. Currently has manual drums ( ).

Enjoy
http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewvehicle.php?id=7981

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

Going from manual to power drum is a HUGE difference. We did that last year, and were very surprised at the difference. Let you know what disc/drum feels like soon. Upgrade your steering gear while you are at it. HUGE difference. Can't believe you don't already have the motor in yet...
That car didn't start life as an RS or had some body work done. Adding the backup lamps isn't expensive, and we will let you know how it turns out. I have some changes to the RS headlights for you also. I am working on an even simpler/cheaper setup, and will get that to you as soon as I have the parts identified.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

It is a true RS car. We have all the VIN and RPO numbers for it. New lower rear panel has to have the holes cut for the reverse lights. Those are the original tail lights. All red. Car had no motor or trans. We are still shopping for a motor/trans. Kind of on the back burner. We need to strip the car and get the frame power coated. I want to smooth out the crappy factory welds first though. Would do an aftermarket SF, but they are VERY expensive.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

Figured the tailpan was a replacement. Adding the lights shouldn't be too bad. We will be doing it this weekend, so we will post some pics. I sent you the latest revision of the healdight system. I have also designed a much simpler version based on 4 relays to run the doors and the headlights instead of 6. Fewer components, cheaper, easier to install and safer. No downside there. It is going to be a fun project to watch. Are you going to keep the 68 console or try and go back to the 67 console? There are some really cool aftermarket gauge plates for use with the 68 and 69 consoles.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

I am keeping the console I have. Is it a 68? I thought it was a 69. Maybe the same. I LOVE the horse shoe shifter. I found a kit that maked is shift an A4 and comes with the label plate too. So I am set there. Can you tell me where I can find these gauge kits? I found a hole dash kit with gauges, but I prefer to keep the stock gauge plate and put autometer gauges in it and use a plate with gauges in the center console. Let me know about those. I do not like the 67 shifter. The T-handle they used for the PG is ugly IMO.

enganeer

iTrader: (18)

I always have liked first gen F-bodies. The new power plant with give you the best of both worlds.

As mentioned, upgrade the brakes as these older cars are not safety orientated. When I picked my 64 Chevelle, it has manual drum brakes all around with the single reservoir style master cylinder and no seat belts. That could go so bad if just one of the four brake cylinders goes south. Adding C4 brakes and seat from a Sebring with the seat belt built in the seat frame.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

From the pic, hard to tell, but the 68 and 69 are similiar in look. The horseshoe shifter is the coolest automatic shifter ever. Check out places like Covan, or look through Rick First Gen or Classis Industries for gauge options. There are some great looking gauges available for use in the 68 and 69 consoles. That ugly shifter for the automatic in 67 is similiar to the shifters in a lot of cars in the early 60's, the horshoe idea (which we have in the 68 Impala) was truly a great bit of design work at GM.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

I found a kit from autometer for $40 in Jegs. I will look for others too. Holds 4 gauges. Just what I need. Best part is no hacking up the car. My goal is to keep it as un molested as possible. So far, the worst will be the 4-link conversion. You need to drill some holes in the floor to bolt it in.

Power discs all around are a must. I am thinking Wilwoods up front and LS1 rears.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Can anyone tell me if the 4L80e will fit?

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Update: Stripped the car down to bare metal and found out the car was not as clean as we thought. Not too bad though. Looks like we need a fender, inner fender and maybe some other stuff. Everything else can be smoothed with filler. We sealed the good parts and sent it to get a 6 point roll bar. I will get pics when we get it back in a couple weeks.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

They never are as clean as they look! Have you decided what you want to do for suspension yet? I am thinking that there is a pretty good chance the 4l80E will fit, you may have a few minor massging to do, but the tunnel is huge in the first gens. What mounts are you going to use? That will influence your fit. The automatic gives you a bit of freedom, since you don't have to worry about the shifter location. Can't wait to see some progress, it should be a sweet car when you are done!

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Looks like Hiedt's rear "bolt-in" 4-link for the rear with 9" and some tubular A-Arms up front. Not sure on brand. Looking for the best deal on those as they get pricey. As far as shocks, we are going with adjustable coil overs on all 4 corners. I am steering toward LS1 F-body brakes on all 4 corners.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

We can vouch for the effectiveness of the Speedtech upper A-arms (fair price). You really don't need tubular lowers unless you just want them. The caster change really makes a big difference in the handling. Are you keeping the drag link steering or going to 'rack 'n peanut'? If you keep the drag link, get a quicker ratio than stock. We did 2.5(around 12.7:1) turns lock to lock, I would suggest looking at 3 (around 14:1). Steering is a hair quick for my taste, but she loves it. VERY responsive. Inline Tube sells a pretty comprehensive disc brake conversion that includes the smaller booster you will need to clear the #7 coil. It was pretty reasonably priced, and all of the new lines fit very well. I am assuming you are going for larger wheels than we did, so you wouldn't have to modify the front brackets at all. Have you given any thought into where youa re going to mount the computer? If you don't cheap out like we did, it would fit in the fender well beside the battery very nicely. Not a lot of room under dash for it unless you want to loose your glovebox, or fab up a new heating system. It is a really amazing change going to this engine, you will LOVE it.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Not sure on motor mounts yet. The ones that give me the best firewall clearance I guess. Not sure on stearing yet. Depends on the cost to upgrade every component compared to converting to R&P. Looking at a classic looking 17" 5-star.

Rybar

iTrader: (11)

You should check out the G-Bar triangulated 4-link, it's a bolt-in system as well and is available with coil overs or air bags (airbar) check out www.lateral-g.net or www.pro-touring.com for more suspension info.

I am running Speedtech tubular upper/lower CA's with QA1 coil overs and am happy with the setup and price was fair. I also used thier C5 brake brackets to mount 13" C5 rotors and calipers on my stock spindle. http://www.speedtech-performance.com/

I am pretty sure the 4L80e will fit, contact Steve at Twist Machine he will know for sure as he sells the paddle shift Shrifter systems. http://www.twistmachine.com/

I'd recommend ATS for mounts and oil pan: www.t56kit.com

dhutton

iTrader: (1)

Depending on how much you are planning to do I'd recommend that you consider the Art Morrison subframe. It looks more expensive but when you are doing an LSX conversion plus suspension and steering mods it starts to make sense, at least to me. The subframe is engineered to use the stock F body oil pan and and accessory drives.

When you are doing the comparisons don't forget to include the cost of your LSx conversion. There are hidden costs here:

oilpan - $450 to $850 or more if you choose one requiring a remote filter. Most stock clip conversions and aftermarket clips require a new oil pan. A couple of the aftermarket clips can use the stock oil pan. Do some research before notching the factory pan - there's a few guys out there who have fried their motors.

accessory drives - this can add up quickly if you are going to have air conditioning. It can be anywhere from $700 to $3000+ if you cannot reuse the factory accessory drive. Not all aftermarket clips can resuse the stock AC drive. Most solutions with a stock clip cannot use the factory AC drive.

headers - the long tube headers for some of the solutions can cost $2000. There are lower cost options but some need multiple beatings with a hammer to clear the steering. Just check out some of the threads on this site.

I suggest you get out a piece of paper and start adding up all the costs of the solutions you are considering. It's surprising how quickly costs can add up.

I purchased my Art Morrison subframe from Frank at Prodigy Customs. He seemed to have the best deal that I could find.

I'll also give the G-Bar setup a recommendation over the Heidt's setup. I haven't read too much positive about the Heidt's but most seem to be quite happy with the G-Bar. Do some searching over at pro-touring.com.

Don

Rybar

iTrader: (11)

Hey check out this new swap kit from Jegs, seems to be priced pretty well. Includes mounts, Hooker LT headers and a radiator: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0002_762022_-1

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

I saw that kit. Well priced for what comes with it. But I also want electric fans. Those add up and never are made for a particular radiator so never really look right. I found a radiator with dual fans for 600 and it is clean and sweet looking. I will do more research on fans though to see if I can utilize this kit and save a few $$.

As for the G-Bar, never heard of it and will research it. There are so many options out there these days. I know I will stay away from the kit that uses half leaf springs. Looks dangerous and not very strong or effective. Not to mention about 50% more $$.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

That Fatman 1/2 spring kit is supposed to be pretty nice, but I have heard great things about the G-Bar as well. The Quadra-link kit from DSE is pretty cool, but didn't fit her wishes... If you don't mind the non-original look, definately get away from the mono-leaf, it is our biggest limiting factor in the performance of this car. It does what she wanted it to, and does it well, but would never cut it as a true road racer.

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

6-Point is done. Here are the pics. Thanks to Jeff and the guys at Pakman Motorsports.

http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...967%20Camaro/?