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Engine/trans angle question.

Old Jun 22, 2007 | 10:04 AM
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Default Engine/trans angle question.

Howdy boys and girls. I have already done the LS1/T56 swap once but still have some questions about engine/trans placement.

For those who have had to fab their own motor and trans mounts, what is the best way to hold the engine in place while you determine the best angle to mount it at. I can't imagine using a cherry picker would be a good idea.

For the trans, I had to use a scissor jack and it worked fine.

Also what is the ideal surface on the engine for which to determine what angle the engine is sitting at.

All ideas are welcome

Cheers Robert
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 10:44 AM
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When I made my motor mounts, I used a cherry picker and a wood block of the thickness that I wanted for clearance between the engine crossmember and the oil pan. I used a bare block with oil pan and the transmission when I made my mounts, so I just used the top edge of the engine block to check the angle.
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 11:22 AM
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I just bolted up all the follwoing to the engine, engine plate, engine mounts and the frame mounts. Then dropped it in to get check the right engine height off of the x-member 1st. Once the engine was sitting at the right height and centered (or offset) as needed. I then mounted the trans x-member, used a jack to move the trans up or down to get the 3 degree (2-5 is acceptable). Suggest you have the car at the correct right angel as you do that.
Then marked/tacked the mounts inplace. then took all out and made the final welds or drill holes as needed.

I found that the trans tail shaft or housing to be reading the same as the base PCV cover rail on the block. You can pertty much use any of the following. Front Crank, Trans Tail Shaft or housing, Block oil pan rail, PCV Cover Rail on the block. etc..as long as there are in line with the crank or 90 to the crank.
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 12:55 PM
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Trans output shaft is recommended, but the other places will work.

I just used the cherry picker and a load leveler for initial setup. Then sat it on the mounts and trans crossmember to finish it up.

I recently picked up a digital level to get a more accurate reading.
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Old Jun 22, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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Thanks guys. For some reason I have always been skeptical about holding the engine with the hoist while you determine the position of the engine.
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 08:04 AM
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I understand where you are coming from, but I just make sure I keep my important parts out of harms way should the hoist fail. Also, by having the engine resting on the wooden block, the hoist just holds part of the load.
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Old Jun 23, 2007 | 08:27 AM
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Just a note: Once the engine/trans are initially mounted, you can double check that the engine/trans mounting location has created the proper tail shaft to rear differential angle by placing a laser pointer into the differential & pointing it toward the tail shaft. This will allow you to visually confirm that the angular offset between the two has been established.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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Good topic. I’m at this point in my build now.

Is it safe to rest an Iron 6.0 mated with a T56 on the aluminum oil pan on the crossmember? With a wood block in between, of course. I’m worried about the oil pan cracking.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by LQ4-E39
Good topic. I’m at this point in my build now.

Is it safe to rest an Iron 6.0 mated with a T56 on the aluminum oil pan on the crossmember? With a wood block in between, of course. I’m worried about the oil pan cracking.
This is how I did it since I used my stock trans crossmember. I put a spacer in between the pan and the crossmember to get the gap I wanted and then made my engine mounts.

The oil pan is still in one piece.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:53 AM
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I was thinking 3/4"-1" space between the crossmember and the pan. Thoughts?
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 11:26 AM
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I think my final spacing was 3/4". I used the stock isolators and spaced the engine up 1" and then when the isolators compressed I ended up at ~3/4". Hopefully that is enough.
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