More Ford infidelity-
More Ford infidelity- I will be documenting yet another poor mustang recieving a Gen 3 GM powerplant. Before the flamers come out, the car went 10's with a 306" FORD motor last season, I just don't have the budget to make 1000HP with a Ford motor this year.
That being said, here goes:
Just picked up a Flood recovery 2002 LQ4 6.0 and 4l80E. The entire piece has been submerged, so I will be tearing it down to survey the damage.
The heads, periferals and 4L80E, harness, etc... will be sold off to pay for other parts.
The car is a 92 Ford mustang- Motor will be re-built w/ forged pistons and rods, will recieve a set of ported stock castings, (unsure of which ones yet) a 76mm single turbo, TH350 tranny, and BS3 fuel management. The goal is 9 flat at 150mph- aprox 900hp.
Anyone use a truck pan in a Foxbody before? It looks like a good fit, the car has a tubular k-member. I will be posting photos of the teardown tomorrow. Any and all advice is appreciated, I'm a semi-noob to Gen 3 GM stuff.
That being said, here goes:
Just picked up a Flood recovery 2002 LQ4 6.0 and 4l80E. The entire piece has been submerged, so I will be tearing it down to survey the damage.
The heads, periferals and 4L80E, harness, etc... will be sold off to pay for other parts.
The car is a 92 Ford mustang- Motor will be re-built w/ forged pistons and rods, will recieve a set of ported stock castings, (unsure of which ones yet) a 76mm single turbo, TH350 tranny, and BS3 fuel management. The goal is 9 flat at 150mph- aprox 900hp.
Anyone use a truck pan in a Foxbody before? It looks like a good fit, the car has a tubular k-member. I will be posting photos of the teardown tomorrow. Any and all advice is appreciated, I'm a semi-noob to Gen 3 GM stuff.
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, MD.
The heads that are on the LQ4 are probably what you want to port or buy ported, if you're sticking with stock heads. They're basically the LS6 head with bigger chambers (by 8 or 10 cc).
But I'm not a racer or an engine builder, so my opinion may not be worth much.
'JustDreamin'
But I'm not a racer or an engine builder, so my opinion may not be worth much.
'JustDreamin'
Originally Posted by ILLINTENT
I will be documenting yet another poor mustang recieving a Gen 3 GM powerplant. Before the flamers come out, the car went 10's with a 306" FORD motor last season, I just don't have the budget to make 1000HP with a Ford motor this year.
That being said, here goes:
Just picked up a Flood recovery 2002 LQ4 6.0 and 4l80E. The entire piece has been submerged, so I will be tearing it down to survey the damage.
The heads, periferals and 4L80E, harness, etc... will be sold off to pay for other parts.
The car is a 92 Ford mustang- Motor will be re-built w/ forged pistons and rods, will recieve a set of ported stock castings, (unsure of which ones yet) a 76mm single turbo, TH350 tranny, and BS3 fuel management. The goal is 9 flat at 150mph- aprox 900hp.
Anyone use a truck pan in a Foxbody before? It looks like a good fit, the car has a tubular k-member. I will be posting photos of the teardown tomorrow. Any and all advice is appreciated, I'm a semi-noob to Gen 3 GM stuff.
That being said, here goes:
Just picked up a Flood recovery 2002 LQ4 6.0 and 4l80E. The entire piece has been submerged, so I will be tearing it down to survey the damage.
The heads, periferals and 4L80E, harness, etc... will be sold off to pay for other parts.
The car is a 92 Ford mustang- Motor will be re-built w/ forged pistons and rods, will recieve a set of ported stock castings, (unsure of which ones yet) a 76mm single turbo, TH350 tranny, and BS3 fuel management. The goal is 9 flat at 150mph- aprox 900hp.
Anyone use a truck pan in a Foxbody before? It looks like a good fit, the car has a tubular k-member. I will be posting photos of the teardown tomorrow. Any and all advice is appreciated, I'm a semi-noob to Gen 3 GM stuff.
Phil
Originally Posted by mulletnotch
The Fbody pan fits well with the 4.6 K member and 4.6 motor mounts (modified). Hope that helps. Another vote for those heads...
Originally Posted by vanilla89
the modified 4.6 mounts wont work on a iron block...
Dave
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 538
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LS2 vette or Fcar Pan. the truck pan will sit 4-5 inches below the k-frame. It will fit with a small notch on the passenger side of the K frame using the f-car pan if you push the engine back as far as you can in the engine bay.If the heads are touching the firewall pull it about 1/4 inch forward and dimple the firewall to clear the intake manifold is your running a plastic intake like the ls1 ls2 ls6 l76.Other then that is a peice of ckae.
Well, thanks everyone for your input. I will be using the BS3 as it will be a racecar, and I like the user friendliness of it. + I would have to build my own harness out of the one that I have, buy a factory ECM, (I'm assuming that this one has been under water) buy a low impedance injector driver, O2 sensor, a copy of HPT or EFIlive etc... by the time it's all said and done, I don't believe the difference in cost would be that much really.
I will be fabricating my own motor mounts, they will be a plate on the block to a 2" piece of steel tubing to a plate on the k-member, pretty simple really.
I would like to get the motor as low in the chassis as possible, but I definitely dont want the pan hanging way below the k-member, unless I were to build a skid-plate for it, which means MORE WEIGHT.
The car weighed 3,000 with the 5.0 motor and a TKO 600- an additional 100 lbs will be removed from the car in the form of lightweight seats, dash internals, heater box, light weight battery, etc...
I will be fabricating my own motor mounts, they will be a plate on the block to a 2" piece of steel tubing to a plate on the k-member, pretty simple really.
I would like to get the motor as low in the chassis as possible, but I definitely dont want the pan hanging way below the k-member, unless I were to build a skid-plate for it, which means MORE WEIGHT.
The car weighed 3,000 with the 5.0 motor and a TKO 600- an additional 100 lbs will be removed from the car in the form of lightweight seats, dash internals, heater box, light weight battery, etc...
Last edited by ILLINTENT; Jun 26, 2007 at 09:35 AM.
Oh almost forgot, day 1 progress-
Tear down of motor didn't go so hot. Cylinders full of mud (literaly) Motor completely siezed up. Sizable amounts of rust on the cylinder walls, hopefully it will clean up with a bore, this means I'll be buying a set of pistons, which means I'll also be buying a set of Rods- may as well buy some that will support the target 900-1000hp (Suggestions welcome)
Pulled the heads off, they look OK, some mild corosion of the combustion chambers, and of course the valves and seats are junk, but they will be replaced with bigger ones anyway. Stock Rocker arms look clean and good, as do the pushrods.
Attempted to seperate the transmission, bellhousing cracked when I barely snugged up one of the bellhousing bolts, Scrap one 4L80!!!!
... surprisingly thin case for such a strong transmission. If anyone needs anything out of a 4L80E, I'll be pulling the guts out of this one, it actually looks pretty good inside.
The torque converter bolts are so coroded, I had to break the rest of the bellhousing up and cut the torque converter tabs off.
This $700 complete motor and trans has now basically been reduced to core block and crank and heads, that is hopefully still usable. I will be pulling off the oil pan tonight, lots of pictures to come....
Tear down of motor didn't go so hot. Cylinders full of mud (literaly) Motor completely siezed up. Sizable amounts of rust on the cylinder walls, hopefully it will clean up with a bore, this means I'll be buying a set of pistons, which means I'll also be buying a set of Rods- may as well buy some that will support the target 900-1000hp (Suggestions welcome)
Pulled the heads off, they look OK, some mild corosion of the combustion chambers, and of course the valves and seats are junk, but they will be replaced with bigger ones anyway. Stock Rocker arms look clean and good, as do the pushrods.
Attempted to seperate the transmission, bellhousing cracked when I barely snugged up one of the bellhousing bolts,
Scrap one 4L80!!!!... surprisingly thin case for such a strong transmission. If anyone needs anything out of a 4L80E, I'll be pulling the guts out of this one, it actually looks pretty good inside.
The torque converter bolts are so coroded, I had to break the rest of the bellhousing up and cut the torque converter tabs off.
This $700 complete motor and trans has now basically been reduced to core block and crank and heads, that is hopefully still usable. I will be pulling off the oil pan tonight, lots of pictures to come....
Ironically, I guess if this motor isn't salvagable, I could just pull the motor out of the tow rig and use it in the racecar- 
check out the gnarly-ness... I hope a .030 over bore will clean it up....
[IMG]http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w153/skimpytau/CIMG0242.jpg
[/IMG]
Literally looks like it was used as a boat anchor. Check out this throttle body they recovered from the Titanic
I just went home on my lunch break and had to cut the converter off of the flexplate as the input shaft and torque converter bolts were rusted solid. I'll have more pics of the carnage in a minute.
check out the gnarly-ness... I hope a .030 over bore will clean it up....
[IMG]http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w153/skimpytau/CIMG0242.jpg
[/IMG]
Literally looks like it was used as a boat anchor. Check out this throttle body they recovered from the Titanic
I just went home on my lunch break and had to cut the converter off of the flexplate as the input shaft and torque converter bolts were rusted solid. I'll have more pics of the carnage in a minute.
contact texas speed and performance, i seen they had a set of diamond pistons and manley rods for sale for 650 bucks!!!! wish i had the extra money i would buy them...they are for your motor, should end up with a 8.75 comp.....
as for heads, i dont think anyone would argue that the l92 heads are the best bang for the buck for this motor......flow more than afr 225 and cost 800 bucks.
oh and DAMN......HOW LONG WAS THAT THING UNDER WATER??? looks like since it was new!!!! good luck....i dont know how handy you are with a welder, but i have seen some people cut the bottom of the truck pan off to make it shorter and weld it back up............
as for heads, i dont think anyone would argue that the l92 heads are the best bang for the buck for this motor......flow more than afr 225 and cost 800 bucks.
oh and DAMN......HOW LONG WAS THAT THING UNDER WATER??? looks like since it was new!!!! good luck....i dont know how handy you are with a welder, but i have seen some people cut the bottom of the truck pan off to make it shorter and weld it back up............
Thanks for the suggestion, the l92 heads arn't legal for my class, unfortunately. I have to have a 220cc or smaller runner.
Day two progress- has to CUT THE TRANNY OFF WITH A TORCH and finnaly got the rear seal plate off, and got the engine on the stand. There is some rust on the crank on the surface where the rear main seal rides, hopefully it will polish out, otherwise the crank is junk.
Looks like I need to source an F-body pan and an LS1 intake for mockup purposes.
Day two progress- has to CUT THE TRANNY OFF WITH A TORCH and finnaly got the rear seal plate off, and got the engine on the stand. There is some rust on the crank on the surface where the rear main seal rides, hopefully it will polish out, otherwise the crank is junk.
Looks like I need to source an F-body pan and an LS1 intake for mockup purposes.
a truck pan will clear fine unless the car is slammed to the ground i bet i have 8" of clearance under mine and thats with an iron block 5.3 and 4 cyl springs manifolds and turbo kit up front so its not light in the nose
Really, that would be awsome if I could get away with the truck pan, considering I got totally screwed on this $700 junkyard motor. Check out the pics of the pistons rusted solid to the cylinders- My personal favorite was having to cut the torque converter off with a torch. 
Here's what came out of the pan, kind of smelled like rotten sea-food
Here's what came out of the pan, kind of smelled like rotten sea-food
Hopefully, the bores will clean up, and I will still be able to use the crank, block, front & rear covers, Oil pan, windage tray, water pump, and hardware. Not very many usable parts for $700, but live and learn I guess.
I'm sure it's been covered a jillion times, but what are the two sensors that thread into the lifter valley, my manual doesn't mention anything about them.
Also, I notice there is a fair amount of play in the rocker arms' fulcrum bearings, is this normal????
As it stands right now, it looks like a set of Texas Speed ported 5.3 heads, Compstar crank and 6.125 rods will be used. Pistons will be either JE, Ross or Mahle, depending on what's available off the shelf...
Can anyone point out something wrong with this combo or sugest something better?
I'm sure it's been covered a jillion times, but what are the two sensors that thread into the lifter valley, my manual doesn't mention anything about them.
Also, I notice there is a fair amount of play in the rocker arms' fulcrum bearings, is this normal????
As it stands right now, it looks like a set of Texas Speed ported 5.3 heads, Compstar crank and 6.125 rods will be used. Pistons will be either JE, Ross or Mahle, depending on what's available off the shelf...
Can anyone point out something wrong with this combo or sugest something better?