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Old 06-27-2007 | 12:18 PM
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Default Recommended Oil Pump

I have a 2002 LS1 with low oil pressure concerns. I am going to
replace the pump as that seems to be the only other option.
Some say use an LS7????? What is the common consensus
on this subject? Product?
Old 06-27-2007 | 01:04 PM
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A ported LS6 Pump from Texas Speed should be good.
Old 06-27-2007 | 04:37 PM
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I'm running an A.R.E. 4-Stage Dry-Sump pump. Is the LS7's dry sump oil pump even compatible with the LS1's wet sump lubrication system?
Old 06-27-2007 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bczee
A ported LS6 Pump from Texas Speed should be good.


+2 have 49x RWHP and have had no problems and good pressure
Old 06-27-2007 | 11:04 PM
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I think I have read that the front of the crank of a LS7 is longer for the pump.. so that would be one problem of using the LS7 system on a LS1. Not sure if there are others.. there is a sticky on the pans...
Old 06-30-2007 | 09:44 PM
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A standard LS6 pump should be fine, ported version good too.
Old 07-03-2007 | 10:48 AM
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My fault I meant LS6......but interestingly enough I have called
both Texas Speed and TPIS and both of them talked about
my problems with low oil pressure might not be the issue.
You would think they wouldn't care and sell me a pump, but both
said that they still think its the pan/pick up or worse, something
in the engine because of how it gets lower as the engine gets hotter.
They say the pump either works or not? Clearance's opening
up or a spun cam bearing. This sound right?
Street and Performance pan/pick up in a 55 chevy. So S&P really
recommends the removal of the windage tray, because of the
chunk they remove from the pan to make fit in a 55, lowers the over all
oil volume available to the pick and worry about drain back
quickly enough. So I am going under the car AGAIN, to remove
the pan and remove the tray, and verify the o-ring again into
the oil pump.
Old 07-03-2007 | 11:49 AM
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Yes.. there are many problem related to in correctly setup oil Pickup and pans. Was there any other work done to the engine or other parts swapped out prior to this problem ? There have been a few threads talking about S&P pans and problem.

IMO.. i don't like the idea of messing with the pan and windage tray, S&P just removesthe tray and hacks and move the oil pickup.
GM researched and designed it to work this way.. messing with it could lead to problem or degraded oiling at higher RPM or high G turns and start/stops.

O-ring has been a major problem for many. Also the Oil Pumps bypass valve can also be a source of problem if it get stuck or sticks open. Could also be a weak spring.
Old 07-03-2007 | 12:46 PM
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nothing done to this engine other that buy it,
2002 camaro ls1 4l60e with 15k on it. Looked really
clean and after I got it I bought a harness and hooked
up a mechanical gauge to it and looked to have 40-50
at cold start. That was it for me. Got it into car and as soon
as I could checked the oil pressure again, this time it had
the s&p pan and pick up. Also seemed okay but didn't have
important itms hooked up yet like coolant or tranny, so I
didn't let it run. So I thought I had good pressure with
this set up. 4 months go by and I get to the point where
I can have this thing run for a longer period of time.....
and now hot idle results are low oil pressure, in my book.
10psi. I suppose the spring could be stuck, and I would
be at the tear down stage anyway to check that, to just
replace the whole thing. I'll check the o-ring again I guess.
Old 07-03-2007 | 01:07 PM
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I have heard story of it taking a few min's to warm up and get the oil pressure up after the engine has sat for a long time... (mine may have been one of these, but I just swapped out the Oil Pump to a stock LS6 one and that resolve my problem). My 99' pull out sat for at lease 9 month before I started it, had swapped out the pan and pickup for a CTS-V pan...

I seached the forum for answers, some stated to just keep it running for a longer period, like 10 min or longer before pressure returned to normal.. I could not get myself to listen to all of that noise of the valve train and lower eend, so I shut it down and just pulled it and swap.. on the next setup .. all was good !

my guess would be the O-Ring.. make sure that the pickup has clearance from the pan. next I would check the pump bypass valve (but you will have to take the front cover and balancer off.. so you might just as well change the pump to a good LS6 (a stock one at lease, ported is good.)

Oh and change the filter too.

Hope you get it resolved soon. I know now it feels.... I was one of them zero pressure story's.
Old 07-03-2007 | 02:12 PM
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I bought the pump from Lingenfelter Performance Engineering,
was a little cheaper, not ported but it is a high volume GM
oil pump with 2 springs. This should be fun. Never had it apart
that far before.....anyway I am going to get the pump off
and of course the pick up tube will be off. I am going to
mate the pump to the pick up off the engine to see if
it goes together correctly, I would think that it should all
reference itself since there is a single bolt and can only
go in one way. Then install the oil pump (if I can)
with the pick up installed. And hopefully it will only
require a small amount of coaxing to get the pick up end
on over the bolt in the back. Thats the plan anyway.
And will show if the tube is tweaked, because it should
line up fairly closely.
Old 07-05-2007 | 09:14 AM
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I would just install the pump then install the pickup. it is easy and it will fit fine. I have done several installs of the pumps ane pickups on the motor stand and if you seat the o ring then bolt the pickup down you will bw fine. The hard part will be doing it in a car. not sure if you can drop the oil pan down, ect...
Old 07-07-2007 | 12:21 PM
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