Recommended Oil Pump
replace the pump as that seems to be the only other option.
Some say use an LS7????? What is the common consensus
on this subject? Product?
both Texas Speed and TPIS and both of them talked about
my problems with low oil pressure might not be the issue.
You would think they wouldn't care and sell me a pump, but both
said that they still think its the pan/pick up or worse, something
in the engine because of how it gets lower as the engine gets hotter.
They say the pump either works or not? Clearance's opening
up or a spun cam bearing. This sound right?
Street and Performance pan/pick up in a 55 chevy. So S&P really
recommends the removal of the windage tray, because of the
chunk they remove from the pan to make fit in a 55, lowers the over all
oil volume available to the pick and worry about drain back
quickly enough. So I am going under the car AGAIN, to remove
the pan and remove the tray, and verify the o-ring again into
the oil pump.
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IMO.. i don't like the idea of messing with the pan and windage tray, S&P just removesthe tray and hacks and move the oil pickup.
GM researched and designed it to work this way.. messing with it could lead to problem or degraded oiling at higher RPM or high G turns and start/stops.
O-ring has been a major problem for many. Also the Oil Pumps bypass valve can also be a source of problem if it get stuck or sticks open. Could also be a weak spring.
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2002 camaro ls1 4l60e with 15k on it. Looked really
clean and after I got it I bought a harness and hooked
up a mechanical gauge to it and looked to have 40-50
at cold start. That was it for me. Got it into car and as soon
as I could checked the oil pressure again, this time it had
the s&p pan and pick up. Also seemed okay but didn't have
important itms hooked up yet like coolant or tranny, so I
didn't let it run. So I thought I had good pressure with
this set up. 4 months go by and I get to the point where
I can have this thing run for a longer period of time.....
and now hot idle results are low oil pressure, in my book.
10psi. I suppose the spring could be stuck, and I would
be at the tear down stage anyway to check that, to just
replace the whole thing. I'll check the o-ring again I guess.
I seached the forum for answers, some stated to just keep it running for a longer period, like 10 min or longer before pressure returned to normal.. I could not get myself to listen to all of that noise of the valve train and lower eend, so I shut it down and just pulled it and swap.. on the next setup .. all was good !
my guess would be the O-Ring.. make sure that the pickup has clearance from the pan. next I would check the pump bypass valve (but you will have to take the front cover and balancer off.. so you might just as well change the pump to a good LS6 (a stock one at lease, ported is good.)
Oh and change the filter too.
Hope you get it resolved soon. I know now it feels.... I was one of them zero pressure story's.
was a little cheaper, not ported but it is a high volume GM
oil pump with 2 springs. This should be fun. Never had it apart
that far before.....anyway I am going to get the pump off
and of course the pick up tube will be off. I am going to
mate the pump to the pick up off the engine to see if
it goes together correctly, I would think that it should all
reference itself since there is a single bolt and can only
go in one way. Then install the oil pump (if I can)
with the pick up installed. And hopefully it will only
require a small amount of coaxing to get the pick up end
on over the bolt in the back. Thats the plan anyway.
And will show if the tube is tweaked, because it should
line up fairly closely.







