5.3 and TKO500 in a '66 Chevelle
07-15-2007, 03:17 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by LS1MCSS
You don't need the factory computer to run a carb setup. The Edelbrock kit comes with a timing box that fires the coils. MSD makes the box for Edelbrock and they also sell their own version of the timing box. On the Edelbrock version, timing is changed by swapping a pill that plugs into the side of the box.
07-15-2007, 07:10 PM
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from what i've read in the edelbrock catalog and the MSD cat. it's a plug in deal. All you need is the two harnesses on each valve cover for the coils, and the ign. box plugs into that, including the cam pickup and the crank pickup.
07-23-2007, 04:25 PM
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just a quick update. The '57 Chevy cast iron bellhousing went right on, even uses the top middle bolt hole. And I found out for sure today that a Gen 2 flywheel will NOT work on a Gen 3-4. The flywheel slides right on, registers to the crank nicely, but the bolt patterns are different. The Gen 3-4 bolt holes are not semitricle (sp?), and the Gen 2 flywheel is. That makes, Gen 2 flywheel/flexplates all unto themselves, Oh well. That's about all I've done for this week.
07-23-2007, 05:00 PM
#24
Yes, the bolt pattern of the bell housing are the same minus the 2 O'Clock both hole on the LSx block, not a problem and no one has had problem with the missing bolt.
Are you planning on using the 57 Cast bellhousing ? seem that it would be a good idea to upgrade to a lighter and stronger one !?
Are you planning on using the 57 Cast bellhousing ? seem that it would be a good idea to upgrade to a lighter and stronger one !?
07-23-2007, 11:30 PM
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aluminum is lighter yes but stronger? anyway, i like the access from underneath with the open bottom design of the '57 bellhousing. makes clutch changes a bunch easier!! maybe after the car is running and i know everything is good i might change over to an aluminum bellhousing. oh yeah, the other reason to use the '57 housing is the mount for the clutch linkage "Z" bar.........the LSx blocks don't have anywhere to mount the pivot ball.
07-27-2007, 04:40 PM
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I just had a thought. How about using a big block Camaro heater core with the nipples coming out of the heater box on the engine side of the firewall, then use the holes left in the firewall were the original heater hoses came out of for the A/C lines. I'm gonna use an under dash type A/C unit anyway...................thoughts ??..........
08-01-2007, 10:59 AM
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here's a picture of the '55-'57 cast iron bellhousing bolted to the LSx engine. Right above the clutch fork you can see a boss were the clutch ball bracket bolts to. This is getting easier all the time !!!
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2270...Qz?vhost=rides
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2270...Qz?vhost=rides
08-03-2007, 03:54 PM
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OK, some more info for anybody reading this and taking notes. Header flanges, I got mine from Scoggin-Dickey for $17.51 each and they are NICE and thick (1/2"?). These won't warp !!! And the "special" pilot bearing to use a Muncie or Saginaw or, TKO setup like a Muncie, well it ain't so "special" it's a NSK 6302DU. If my memory is still working, that is the same number as the bearing in some CS130 and the 70's early 80's alternators, the one on the front (fan side). Thank you Chevy for making this so easy !!!
08-24-2007, 04:00 PM
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More pictures at my Webshots site. Including a shot from under the car up into the bellhousing area showing the TKO input shaft to back of crankshaft relationship. Everyone can "picture it in their mind", but now there is a real picture of it.
08-24-2007, 04:26 PM
#30
Good going on the project, you seem to have more than enough room between the firewall and block.. it looks like you have the engine up pertty high with a lot of room between the pan and the x-member.. I hope the Alternator and the hood doesn't come into play there..
I think I now see where you were having problem with the steering and the pan. With the engine in the more forward position as yours is, it comes in to contact when the engine is sitting down low .. As compared to mine, which I have move the engine back to the firewall a bit more and the steering center link and ends clears the pan and block. It could also be that the center link is narrower that a later model A-Body and doesn't turn into the pan/block as much.???
I think I now see where you were having problem with the steering and the pan. With the engine in the more forward position as yours is, it comes in to contact when the engine is sitting down low .. As compared to mine, which I have move the engine back to the firewall a bit more and the steering center link and ends clears the pan and block. It could also be that the center link is narrower that a later model A-Body and doesn't turn into the pan/block as much.???
09-13-2007, 02:13 PM
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classic gary, i'm mating a TKO to my LQ9 engine, the pics are great. I'm using a lakewood 15005 bellhousing for my swap. Does that pilot bearing you mentioned sit in the first recess of the crank or all the way back?
09-14-2007, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by classic gary
first recess, the OD is 1.79" (?) (plastic "quickey" caliper) the ID is .575". the bearing number is NSK 6302DU.
12-10-2007, 09:00 PM
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The 2" tall 2" dropped spindles should be here this week, YAHOO !!
Anybody out there got a stock LSx flywheel for sale (cheap) or give?
Anybody out there got a stock LSx flywheel for sale (cheap) or give?
01-09-2008, 08:48 AM
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The 5.3 is going away, eventually, and I've got a 6.0 coming. The spindles are here and i've got one installed to check the geometry, and disc brake caliper adapter fitment. No pics yet. It's coming along, but slowly. It won't be making the trip to Mass. for the 4th-o-July family reunion. Oh well.................
