LS1 Miata
You won't need nitrous in an LSX powered Miata. Rear end, Ford 8.8 is preffered, T-56 transmission. Traction can be improved by opening the wheel wells & installing fender flares. Otherwise 24.6" diameter tires is the limit. This ends up w/ a max. 245 wide tire. My T-56 w/3.55 rear end on 245 tires provides decent traction. Although, tires can be spun in 4 gears if one chose to. Big radiator w/ dual fans works well. My car runs 165-180 F coolant temp. & 200-210 F oil temp w/ a 160 F stat & fans on @ 180 F, regardless of ambient temps..
Suspension, sub-frame bracing, k-frame & big front brakes are the keys to a properly set-up LSX powered Miata. Without all of these, you're waisting your time because the car will not handle as well. Be prepared to spend twice the money & 5 times the time you think you might spend on the build.
Good-luck.
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Hinson stuff is garbage, i'll tell you that first off. Their mounts sit way too high, their headers are overpriced, and i've yet to see anyone truly satisfied with their products (in the Nissan 240 market).
Perhaps you can build it for 10K. I can tell you that IMO, the best k-frame, LCA's, & sub-frame bracing can be aquired from Diamondmotorsports if they still sell to those do it yourselfers. These parts alone will run you 7 to 8k from Diamond. If you are a handy fabricator/mechanic, then it is possible to fab everything yourself & save money, just don't skimp on the important areas or you'll be driving an over powered POS that won't handle well.
Big front brakes = 1K
LSX motor & trans = 3 to 4K
good rear end = 0.5 to 0.7K w/ gear & detroit locker true trac
K-frame, trans mount drive shaft w/ mod's., & diff. mount = 1.5K
sub-frame bracing = 0.5K
Coilovers = 1K
front & rear antisway bars & mounts = 0.3K
front & rear strut tower braces 0.15K
wheels & tires = 1.5K
tune = 0.55K
added gauges & wiring = 0.2K
PCM & combination wiring to Miata = 1K & a huge PITA
after market clutch master & hydraulic lines= 0.1K
Radiator & fans = 0.4K
clutch, flywheel, slave cylinder = 0.7K
headers & exhaust = 1K
Rear brake bias control (proportioning vavle) & lines = 0.1K
Misc. = 2K
Donor Miata = 2.2K min.
Around 17.7K ish
My point about nitrous is that those of us whom have built from the ground up Miatas have found that the 400/400 mark is around the limit of a driveable car; anymore is unuseable power. There are exceptions; if you are building a dragster, then nitrous could be added after the launch to assist the run. I would only suggest using nitrous if the rear wheel wells are tubbed & you are able to mount a 295/315 tire or a similar width slick. Although, if a dragster is your prefference, there are far better platforms to build on. I mean cars w/ a much longer wheel base like an F-body or Mustang. IMO, a high powered, short wheel based, rear wheel drive car is a disaster waiting to happen on the drag strip.
Good-luck, all modified cars a cool. I hope you build it. BTW, there are a few guys in the conversion section of Miata.net who have links to their web pages containing plenty of build pics.


