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69 camaro cold air intake?

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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 09:26 AM
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Default 69 camaro cold air intake?

Looking for some advice on a "cold air" intake setup. lets see pics of yours.
What vendor?

Trying to find plastic or rubber, don't really want to use metal...

Thanks
ChrisP
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 09:36 AM
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If you have a Cowl Induction on your 69 Camaro..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/643850-chevelle-cowl-induction.html

Made the new base and got the rubber elbows from Jagsthatrun.com. Created a mount that uses the four fuel rail bolts and the EGR bolt hole. I am thinking of switching over from the Rubber elbows to metal tubing/elbows for a cleaner one piece look.

From what everyone said and searching the forum/web.. I am the only one with a functional Cowl Inductioned CAI LS1 w/OEM EFI.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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I built my own out of 3.5" exhaust tube and had it chrome plated.

https://ls1tech.com/69Camaro/Code/engine.html
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:33 AM
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I bought my plastic elbow at pep boys dirt cheap and i bought the tubes and silicone couplers from a "non sponsored vendor" PM sent.
Attached Thumbnails 69 camaro cold air intake?-ls1.jpg  
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:40 AM
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I would think that with all the 'tuner' stuff at your LAP anymore, you should be able to find a decent tubing kit. If you still have your battery in the engine compartment, take the tube over to the driver side and you should have room to cut a hole in the core support to get the filter behinf the grill. Tons of room on the other side of the radiator.
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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 07:41 PM
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Hmmmmm, I wonder what about 3'' schedule 40 pvc? Anyone tried that?
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 12:51 AM
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I've used 4" schedule 40 pvc L-bends under the hood before... it didn't hold up well being 6 inches from my header with 1700F EGT and pulling 20in-hg of vacuum on it (was running a natural gas carb in a suck-through configuration). It sucked the header-facing side of the bend flat until was completely flat. PVC is only supposed to be used for up to 140F. It'll probably work for non-pressure/non-vacuum, but may get soft and warp when you are sitting in traffic.






The best thing to use IMO is aluminum. I used stainless exhaust tubing for my LS1 swap, but the exhaust tubing is HEAVY. I still need to decide where to get fresh air from and redo the whole thing. I got my stainless tubing from Jegs, and the rubber pieces and T-clamps from intakeelbows.com.

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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 02:41 AM
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I know your looking for plastic/rubber, but I built mine from 3.5" exhaust tubing and had it ceramic coated:
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 11:39 AM
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If you are using a cowl hood, what about this idea????
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../photo_10.html
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 12:23 PM
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Yeah, I've seen that one, it is the Year One 69 Camaro. you can see more of the Camaro on BRP's web site.

It is not realy a cowl induction as it is using the scoop to feed the CAI and more of a ram air scoop as my design is a fully functional Cowl Induction w/flapper that draws air from the low pressure area of the Cowl. But it does work better than just having the CAI being feed from the inside of the engine bay (using just tubes and a cone air cleaner)
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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Hell, we just have the S&P TPI style intake filter right behind the radiator, not the best for power, but simple, and meets our requirements.
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Old Jul 17, 2007 | 01:41 PM
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If your going to just have the Filter in the engine bay, suggest using some sheet metal to isolate the filter from the hot engine and air. Have a hole in the radiator support or ducting in to the boxed off area to allow only fresh and cold air to it.

But in general it shouldn't be a problem for it to just sit in the engine bay.. just not getting optimum performance. When it comes to intake, Colder the better.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by bczee
If your going to just have the Filter in the engine bay, suggest using some sheet metal to isolate the filter from the hot engine and air. Have a hole in the radiator support or ducting in to the boxed off area to allow only fresh and cold air to it.

But in general it shouldn't be a problem for it to just sit in the engine bay.. just not getting optimum performance. When it comes to intake, Colder the better.
I "think" I've decided that going with plastic is out. *(Funny short story about that later)

I bought a few pieces of a modular system from the LAP and it's aluminum with the only rubber/plastic piece bieng a 90deg at the plenum. Basically, when I was done it came out looking just like Rybars xcept my MAF sits right in the middle of the straight section. Looks like his is at the filter.
After modifing it some more I made it look like Rodders, except mine bends to the right.
After looking at the set up I started thinking(maybe too much) that the exhaust from the top fan blowing on the straight section is doing everything it can to heat up that straight metal duct and make sure the air is heated...so whats the big deal with the cold air anyway...maybe its cooler than the air that 67rsss is breathing but is it that big of a deal?
BTW, I'm using LS1 fans adapted to the 69 radiator.
Nothing is final yet still playing around with different combo's. Maybe even a duct that comes straight forward, up over the core support(flatting out and getting wider like the vette) then dumps over in front of the radiator into a filter. Just thinking out loud. But for now it's Rodder style because I want to start her by this weekend.

*I called a few places here in town about the plastic intake. One place in particular had me laughing. I won't even try to place his accent.
ring,ring
May we help you?
Do you sell 3.5'' or 4.0'' plastic cold air intake tubes
No, we only make and sell metal ones, you don't want prastic...prastic catches on fire!!!
....So the benifit would be that if my car were to catch on fire, I would still have my cold air intake tube..?..
Look, do you want to go to a debate with me?
Yeah, I'll go get dressed...hello....click...
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Old Jul 20, 2007 | 12:36 AM
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1% per 10F is the rule thumb I've always heard... so if you've got 200F IAT instead of 80F, that's 12% you're throwing away. For a 325HP LS1, that'd be 39HP you'd lose. No wonder my car feels slow since I put the hood back on....

Oh, better do something about that plastic intake manifold on the LS1.... they're plastic I hear they can catch on fire!!!

BTW, I actually have had a couple of composite intakes explode, but never had one catch on fire. One was on a 97 Rustang GT which blew the cooling jacket due to a manufacturing defect, the rest were on a supercharged ZX6D motorcycle engine. Anything that caused a backfire on the latter would blow apart our hand-made fiberglass manifold. After the 3rd time we pieced it back together, we finally wrapped the whole damn thing in a couple of layers of kevlar and added a blow-off panel. Never had any problems with the air intake tubing on either of them though.
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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Bump, has anyone found a source of plastic tubing yet?

I have schedule 20 4" PVC right now, but I want to move my intake tubing (MAF is currently behind the rad and it gets to 110-120 deg all the time). Anyway the 4" schedule 20 doesn`t work very well B/C the OD is ~4 1/4". I checked into 3" schedule 40 and the OD is only 3.5"

I don`t really know where to look. I don`t want to run metal since it is a horrible insulator and the engine compartment is pretty warm. Plus I don`t like the looks of metal.
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Rodder
1% per 10F is the rule thumb I've always heard... so if you've got 200F IAT instead of 80F, that's 12% you're throwing away. For a 325HP LS1, that'd be 39HP you'd lose.
Is this due to the readings of the IAT seeing the hot engine compartment temp and taking out timing and fuel?

Is the real benifit in placing the IAT in a cooler spot to increase timing and fuel, or does it really matter to the engine (Not the IAT) what temp the air its using is at ?
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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by KC Henry
Is this due to the readings of the IAT seeing the hot engine compartment temp and taking out timing and fuel?

Is the real benifit in placing the IAT in a cooler spot to increase timing and fuel, or does it really matter to the engine (Not the IAT) what temp the air its using is at ?
It's due to decreased volumetric and thermal efficiency.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 03:54 AM
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The radiator is giving away a lot of heat and if your tubing is behind it, it will get hot too.

I have been thinkning about doing a Cowl induction setup like the one described by bczee.

My present setup is like Rybars and the part of the tube behind the radiator gets real hot. One of the fans also contributes by blowing air right on the tube.


Jan
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 10:38 AM
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Try this site www.intakehoses.com

They have all kinds of elbos and straight pipe up to I think 5"

Hope this helps.

Sam
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 11:49 AM
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DeMolet does a lot of Mustang stuff and he uses 1/4" thick ABS for all his intake tubing. The plastic is supposed to dissapate heat alot better than metal, creating a cooler intake charge. They put one of the demolet kits on an '03 cobra and gained 25 rwhp, Of course that was on a blown motor so the effects are a little inflated compared to a N/A motor, but in theory plastic makes more power.

look up tuneable performance.
May be will be able to hook you up with a source.
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