Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/07-08...4818QQtcZphoto

josht

iTrader: (2)

Without the VVT the timing cover should fit, but we have never been fit checked. You would be using the cam sensor location like the LS2 style so the cam sensor in the 4255 would be correct, the bolt pattern for the cover has not changed.

The cam sensor location on the Gen IV engine has not changed for either the 24x or the 58x, the only difference I am aware of is the cam sprocket and cam sensor must match for the 24x or the 58x wheel.

The cam sensor does not come with the cover. Thanks.


So I need to determine if I can reuse the original cam sensor or if I will have to replace it with a LS2 one...

josht

iTrader: (2)

Thanks to Shaun for setting up this sweet engine deal, I now own a 2008 L92 6.2L engine.

I hope to get pictures, hopefully on Sunday. (someone else will be taking them for me)

The 73 400 currently in the 68 GTO might have a buyer so that that is nice to hear.

The 05 LQ4 is going to loose the front drive accessories, the 317 heads and possibly the TB. I will try and sell the truck intake with out the TB. I am selling the 317 heads as the person who wants the 05 LQ4 has a L92 intake and heads he wants to use.

I am hoping that I can use the truck drive by wire TB instead of have to locate a corvette LS1 TB motor. They don't sell just the TB motor and I have not been able to find a used Corvette LS1 TB cheap yet..

Well I have to decide what parts I will be tossing, finalize the engine build plan, get some more part #'s and figure out how I am going to pay for all this stuff I need to buy.

josht

iTrader: (2)

Well I was bored at work today so I tried to track down the ARP bolts I need.

I will be using L92/LS3 heads // port/polish/springs/valves

all the prices are from sdparts a sponsor ::

I have a 2008 L92/LS3 6.2L ::

ARP Rod Bolt Stretch Gauge (new style) 100-9942 $148.95
ARP Assembly Lube 1/2 Pint w brush 100-9906 $18.95

ARP Gen III/LS Valley Cover Bolt Kit 134-8002 $22.99
ARP LS1 Stainless Steel Header Studs 434-1301 $96.95
ARP Gen III/LS Timing Cover Bolt Kit 134-1502 $18.99
ARP Gen III/LS W/P & Thermostat Housing 134-3202 $23.99
ARP Gen III/LS Rear Cover Bolt Kit 134-1504 $19.99
ARP LS1 Balancer Bolt Kit 234-2503 $29.95
ARP LS1/LS2 Oil pan bolt Kit 134-6902 $39.99
ARP GenIII/LS Flexplate Bolt Kit 244-2901 can't find a price
ARP 4L80 Torque Converter Bolts 230-7305 $20.99
ARP Main Studs LS1: 234-5608 $169.95
ARP Rod Bolts: Pro Series 234-6301 $89.95
ARP Water pump bolts Black Oxide 12pt 130-3201 $15.49



I think I need 234-4317 ??? can some one verify this?

ARP Head Studs: Hex nut style 234-4110 $219.95
ARP Head Studs: 12 pt style 234-4316 $239.95
ARP Head Studs: eql lnth studs 2004 Pro Series 234-4317 $244.95


I know this is over kill as it looks like I am replacing every bolt on the block and I should only be replacing the head bolts with studs..

well feel free to post a reply..

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Dude, your throwing money away by getting all that stuff. The only bolts that you need are rod bolts. I recommend going with Katech rod bolts, which also come with lube. They are made by A-1 Technologies. Look it up. The OEM bolts are more than sufficient for every other task on a mild buildup.

Andrew

josht

iTrader: (2)

I don't plan on buying all those bolts:

I don't have Torque Converter Bolts or Flexplate bolts.
I was told that the head bolts are single use and that using head studs would not be a bad idea.

I plan on buying:
ARP Rod Bolt Stretch Gauge (new style) 100-9942 $148.95
ARP Assembly Lube 1/2 Pint w brush 100-9906 $18.95

ARP GenIII/LS Flexplate Bolt Kit 244-2901 $20.99
ARP 4L80 Torque Converter Bolts 230-7305 $20.99
ARP Main Studs LS1: 234-5608 $169.95
ARP Rod Bolts: Pro Series 234-6301 $89.95 vs $199.00

I think I need 234-4317 ??? can some one verify this?

ARP Head Studs: Hex nut style 234-4110 $219.95
ARP Head Studs: 12 pt style 234-4316 $239.95
ARP Head Studs: eql lnth studs 2004 Pro Series 234-4317 $244.95

these are expensive:
KAT-A4963 – Replacement Connecting Rod Bolts
• H-11 high tensile material - 200,000 psi yield strength
• Bolts directly in place, no resizing necessary
• Extended RPM usage
• Now includes LS7

Price: $199.99/set

Josh

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The Katech H11 bolts are worth every penny. Anyway, I gave my opinion.

Andrew

the450r

iTrader: (1)

im new to this site. i might be working backwards i have a 01 camaro LS1 and T56 BUT i dont have the 68 gto YET. i hear you on 3000 dollar pulley kits. i saw vintage air had a pulley set up and was thinking about that route so i could get the other ac parts to connect to the oem ac compressor.
from what ive read the motor mounts are the a biggest challenge. from what ive seen all the "adaptor plates" are about the same and adapt gen 3 to gen 1 mounts. i am trying to get the major stuff i need to get the engine sitting in the car correctly. i saw edelbrock makes a a body lsx kit but its headers exhaust and adaptor plates.

josht

iTrader: (2)

I ordered some parts today:
New water pump gasket for the truck water pump (new part #)
GM balancer bolt
oil pan gasket, pickup tube o-ring, dipstick and tube and windage tray.
SDParts Gen III ported Oil pump
L92 intake bolts
LS2 Front cover including cam sensor
LPE cam conversion Kit

The oil pan gasket for the CTS-V is: 12558760 which has been replaced with 12580672. The replacement part # is listed as the 2007 L92 oil pan gasket. I don't care as long as the right oil pan gasket shows up.

Next up will be ARP & Katech H11 bolts and the Edelbrock headers #65073. I will be getting a cam made as I don't want to bolt on the front drive accessories twice.

I have to figure out if I can use a SD tune and ditch the MAF. That will depend on where I am going next or if my my home of record will change.

It will be June/July before the frame come back powder coated at this point.

I don't have any pictures of the GTO as the body work is almost done.

josht

iTrader: (2)

I finally have most of the parts for the CTS-V oil pan except for:
12577904 Baffle which is on national backorder.

:: 2008 L92 and 2005 4L80e engine/transmission combination ::

I am re-evaluating the engine mounts again for the nth time.

I don't know how unique my install is:
1) no ac (so I don't have to notch the frame)
2) CTS-V oil pan
3) ATS plates (install them upside down ??)
4) Edelbrock 68-72 headers
5) Gen III truck accessories
6) 25% LS1 under drive pulley
7) L92/LS3 intake (bare as the complete one is discontinued)
8) SDPC UCA & GW LCA
9) Lee 670 steering box
10) ATS Tall AFX spindles
11) Chevelle big block engine frame stands
12) Speartech idler pulley relocation bracket
13) Katech LS1/LQ4/LQ9 truck adj tensioner

I am thinking about using the Edelbrock LSx Engine Mount Adapter Plates #6701. Andrew used the adapter plates but I don't know which engine frame stands and which engine mounts he used. Another thing is that his goal was to not change the location of anything, I just want to get the engine and transmission in with out having to create a custom transmission tunnel from scratch or not able to turn the wheels lock to lock due to interference with the steering components.

I do have the polyurethane engine mounts sold by ATS to be used with their plates. Can I use them with the Edelbrock Engine Mount Adapter Plates #6701 ?? Are they the short wide mounts ?? or the tall narrow ones ??

I understand that there is a tall and short polyurethane engine mounts from energy suspension but don't know which ones I need to buy if I can not use the ones I already have.

what am I missing here ???
my options are ::
1) stick with what I have and call it day
2) buy the Edelbrock Engine Mount Adapter Plates #6701 with existing polyurethane engine mounts
3) Edelbrock Engine Mount Adapter Plates #6701 and new existing polyurethane engine mounts

please help me out here...

TIA

josht

iTrader: (2)

can some one chime in and tell me if i should purchase the Edelbrock LSx Engine Mount Adapter Plates #6701?

I do have the ATS plates and can mount them upside down but it did not resolve another persons issue with being able to turn the turn the wheels lock to lock due to interference with the steering components.

I think I have Chevelle big block frame stands, is this going to be a issue?

has anyone resolved the tie rod issue?

any comments or assistance on which polyurethane engine mounts to use?

TIA

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Josh,

You definitely do not want the engine to sit up high enough to clear the tie rods. This will completely alter your driveline angles and you will never be able to adjust for it. A-bodies aren't that great to start with when you start lowering them. As the body goes lower over the suspension the rear end actually goes higher than the output shaft of the transmission. So even with adjustable rear upper control arms your u-joint working angles will be out of whack. If you were to raise the front of the engine more, things get even worse, fast. I don't know what kind of pan you have, but if you have a steel pan the solution is to modify it to clear the tie rods. I am using an AutoKraft pan on my GTO and the tie rods hit the pan. I live with it because I will never encounter those extreme steering angles while driving. Only in parking situation will you turn the wheel that far.

If you have big block frame stands, you need to use the tall/narrow engine mounts.

Andrew

josht

iTrader: (2)

Well I have determined that the ATS plates come with the short/wide which requires the small block engine frames/mounts/stands.

I think I have the big block engine frames/mounts/stands.

so......

I will be purchasing:
The Edelbrock Engine Mount Adapter Plates #6701 and new existing polyurethane engine mounts (tall/narrow) as trial fitment has not been going to well. Not sure if it is the accessories but not running AC for now is going to make it a lot easier.

I am using the 05-07? 6.0L LS2 CTS-V oil pan.

Josh

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Why not just get different frame stands?

Andrew

josht

iTrader: (2)

Andrew, I thought that I had purchased "big block" frame stands.
The auction actually listed them as fitting both small and big blocks but the dimensions don't match either one...

I would need the frame stands for a Chevy small block?

The initial fitting went ok, with a few issues.
I still don't know if the mounts and stands fit.

I could change the polyurethane mounts from the short wide mounts (small block) to the tall narrow ones (big block).

Either way it looks like I have to purchase something, mounts or stands, plus I have to deal with the fact that the bolts provided are too long..

Are the Edelbrock Engine Mount Adapter Plates #6701 thicker then the ATS plates?
I don't want to use a lot of washers to resolve the bolt issue.

I have a bad feeling that there will be a extra set of plates, engine stands and possible polyurethane mounts when I am done...

GM still is not producing the baffle, I should have one soon from a member on pro-touring.
The accessories and headers need to be mocked up, I was waiting for the cam.

I am trying to send off the heads for porting, valves....

josht

iTrader: (2)

I have L92 with VVT, no AFM/DoD. and the LS2 timing cover # 12600325 is this the same as the LS3 timing cover?

is the 58x cam sensor available separately?

I am looking into buying the Edelbrock 2 piece unit but it does not come with the cam sensor.

Does the VVT 5 wire cam sensor fit the LS2 or LS3 timing cover?
Can I use the L92 VVT cam sensor in the Edelbrock 2 piece timing cover?

thanks

josht

iTrader: (2)

I finally have the correct poly mounts the Tall Narrow ones.

I did test fit on the engine frame stands after reading the sticker on them.
I do have the big block non 307 engine frame stands, so one issue is now resolved.

I will try and reuse the VVT timing cover cam sensor, if not I have the sensor from the brand new LS2 timing cover.

I still have to order the following parts:
cam - hopefully with my mid month paycheck
Edelbrock timing cover - will be ordered with the cam
Edelbrock plates - will be ordered with the cam
Katech truck adj tensioner - hopefully before the sale ends Feb 28th.

I am holding off on ordering the L76/LS3 intake since I don't need it at this point.

I should be able to make more progress now that I am 900 miles away and not 14 hours away..

josht

iTrader: (2)

I have to see if the cross member can be reused as it is setup up for a dual exhaust with the original th350...

The Edelbrock LS2/LS3 cover does not come with the sensor so I will be using the parts from the GM LS2/LS3 cover.

I have a new radiator so another needed item is out of the way.

I have a question on converting/installing a EFI system.

I have the fuel rails, with fittings, one section of braided line, the corvette fpr and the three Dorman fittings.

what spectra tank?
Is the 1969 GTO tank part # GM34DF going to fit and is the filler tub in the same location for a 1968 GTO?

What type of hard line, stainless steel or aluminum?
I need 3/8" & 5/16" because of the corvette FPR but how many feet?
Do I need sleeve nuts or AN fittings and which ones?
figure four 3/8" fittings and two 5/16" fittings?

what type of hose to use for fuel?
I need a section -6 AN for either the fuel rails or from the fuel rail to the hard line.

Is there a type of hose I can use for fuel, oil, power steering and transmission?

I want to run a cooler for the power steering and transmission and a remote filter for oil.

What should I run from the corvette fpr to the efi tank?
hardline or some type of braided hose?

TIA

the450r

iTrader: (1)

the Pontiac crossmember is extremely wide my swap was with the T56 and it was easier to just get a chevelle crossmember and modify it. but if you have to raise or lower the rear mount you will have to do alot of modifying to the Pontiac crossmember.

the 68 and 69 gas tanks are the same i think up through 72 they are the same with the exeption of the 70-72s have different and more hoses for venting/evap emissions.

youll need high pressure fuel hose for fuel and oil treated or transmission cooler hose for the oil and oil cooler, power steering lines. Your local parts store should have plenty of this on hand.

most people are running the vette fpr right next to the tank so you only have to run one line up front vs two lines at added cost and material if it was mounted farther forward. Im going to mount mine right above the axle like ive seen in several other posts.

josht

iTrader: (2)

So I can use the 1969 GTO tank part # GM34DFI

what type of fittings are on the fuel tank?
do I need to weld/braze -6an fittings on to it?

3/8" & 5/16" aluminum hard line not stainless steel?

do I use -6an sleeve & nut fittings or -6an to 3/8" to hard line adapters?

The Fuel line is not going to be the same for power steering,transmission and oil.

if I have the Dorman adapters do I still need compression fittings like the ones from Pure Choice Motorsports?

If use a corvette FPR with -6AN fittings do I use hard line adapters or AN male to male couplers?

TIA