cts pan in an "A" body
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
cts pan in an "A" body just to recap, i got the hooker headers for my 69 chevelle, along with their mount adapters, all fit up great-was waiting for a cts pan to arrive, so i got it today-i was ready to break out the tourch/welder and cut the x-member if needed, but after taking off the truck windage tray, the cts pan fit like a glove, cleared all around
the only thing that i encountered was some interference with the tie rods, but i think i can tweak that, worse comes to worse, i will notch the pan, if its close i may weld up the steering arms so they have a little more limit when they hit the control arms
the only thing that i encountered was some interference with the tie rods, but i think i can tweak that, worse comes to worse, i will notch the pan, if its close i may weld up the steering arms so they have a little more limit when they hit the control arms
I have the same problem with my suspension. Same pan.
I made 1/2" adapters to get my oil pan to clear. Now it just makes it with the ATS mount kit.
I took more pics tonight, but I'm too beat to download untill tomorrow.
I made 1/2" adapters to get my oil pan to clear. Now it just makes it with the ATS mount kit.
I took more pics tonight, but I'm too beat to download untill tomorrow.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
anyone ever try one of these dropped draglinks
http://www.howeracing.com/Steering/I...enterlinks.htm
http://www.howeracing.com/Steering/I...enterlinks.htm
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
http://www.howeracing.com/Steering/
They dont make one for the 64-67 .. that sucks .. and it looks like (based on the pics I've seen) that the tierod ends hit the pan before any other part of the draglink ... not sure if this will even help with clearance that much...
They dont make one for the 64-67 .. that sucks .. and it looks like (based on the pics I've seen) that the tierod ends hit the pan before any other part of the draglink ... not sure if this will even help with clearance that much...
Last edited by MCMLXIX; Oct 22, 2007 at 07:53 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
thanks-go to stock steering, then steering centerlinks, second one down for a body-i think you have to chop off the front part below the link to clear
wish i had seen this yesterday, i heated and bent my pitman arm, and idler arm, to lower the centerlink, and cut out the part below the link, and was going to weld a piece in lower
wish i had seen this yesterday, i heated and bent my pitman arm, and idler arm, to lower the centerlink, and cut out the part below the link, and was going to weld a piece in lower
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Yeesh, it cost me $20 to get a set of spacers for my frame mounts made...
I'm not a big fan of heat stressing suspension components like that....
Now that I'm looking at those center links, they wouldn't help. The part that hits the oil pan is still at the stock height. They just drop the center part down a bit, but it looks like the connecting points for the tie rods are the same height. That's where at least my problem is/was.
I'm not a big fan of heat stressing suspension components like that....
Now that I'm looking at those center links, they wouldn't help. The part that hits the oil pan is still at the stock height. They just drop the center part down a bit, but it looks like the connecting points for the tie rods are the same height. That's where at least my problem is/was.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 630
Likes: 1
From: New York City
yeah just raise it up a bit ,the engine that is if you can . i thought i was good for a while until i bolted up the steering, just added plates between the adaptor plate and the engine mount.JOHN
Same problem, different car I'm running into the same center link issue with my Gen 3 install into my '94 BMW 525 wagon. It has the rear steering & I'm using the shortest (back to front) sump pan I could find (Moroso 20140). The front of the pan overlaps the center link by about 2". I tried a GTO pan & it was even worse. I need to lower the motor another 1.5~2" to get my bellhousing to clear, so raising it as mentioned above is not an option. I'm also looking at cutting & rewelding the center link since I can't find a dropped unit that will work- the BMW part is unlike the ones shown on the Howe website, it has an extra set of "ears" on the outside part where the outer tie rods attach:
If one of you has a good pic of the CTS pan I would like to see what this looks like. I know the LS2 pan is a little shallower, but that is another $400+ to change pans again & my plumbing is setup for the Moroso pan.
If one of you has a good pic of the CTS pan I would like to see what this looks like. I know the LS2 pan is a little shallower, but that is another $400+ to change pans again & my plumbing is setup for the Moroso pan.
Here are a few photo's on my Cardomain site.. Page #6. just browse down about 1/2 way..
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2353903/6
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2353903/6
Thanks for the pics. I think I would be worse off for my application trying that, so I'm going to look for a used LS2 pan. That should give me about 1.25", the best I can do right now.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
a little update on what i found-i called Howe about the centerlink (68-72 chevelle) and what he told me was it pretty much has stock design, except the ends for idler/pitman have shims, and they can be swapped around to raise or lower the centerlink about 1/2". Its actually designed to correct bump steer
they were around $150, and since i was going to replace mine anyway, i think i might buy one(i already cut out the section below it when i heated/bent the pitman/idler arm anyway) i was looking at some heim joint tie rod ends, but couldnt find any for "A" body
i am puttin off raising the motor, i like the way its setup now, dup's the orig angle, and if i go with a 4l80e, its already set for it(gonna use a switch pitch 400 in the mean time)
they were around $150, and since i was going to replace mine anyway, i think i might buy one(i already cut out the section below it when i heated/bent the pitman/idler arm anyway) i was looking at some heim joint tie rod ends, but couldnt find any for "A" body
i am puttin off raising the motor, i like the way its setup now, dup's the orig angle, and if i go with a 4l80e, its already set for it(gonna use a switch pitch 400 in the mean time)
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
a little more update, got my vette accs. drive parts yesterday, so i stuck the engine/trans back in today (wanted to trial fit the pan/tierods one more time)
i was a little worried about the steering box/pulley, but i have at least 5" from the center of the pump to the box, and only need about 3 1/2", so i am in great shape
with i heated/bent pitman arm and idler, and the frame notched right below, it turns lock to lock, no interference, so tweaking it did the trick
my howe draglink should be here anyday, so i will trial fit it, see how much adjustment it has, and return to a stock pitman arm, need a new idler arm anyway (after trial fitting the 4l80e, it needs a little more "adjustment", just want it fit now in case i use it later)
i have a couple weeks before my procharger/8 rib pulleys arrive, so i'll pull the body back off the frame, paint and clean-still got some time before i decide carb or injection
i was a little worried about the steering box/pulley, but i have at least 5" from the center of the pump to the box, and only need about 3 1/2", so i am in great shape
with i heated/bent pitman arm and idler, and the frame notched right below, it turns lock to lock, no interference, so tweaking it did the trick
my howe draglink should be here anyday, so i will trial fit it, see how much adjustment it has, and return to a stock pitman arm, need a new idler arm anyway (after trial fitting the 4l80e, it needs a little more "adjustment", just want it fit now in case i use it later)
i have a couple weeks before my procharger/8 rib pulleys arrive, so i'll pull the body back off the frame, paint and clean-still got some time before i decide carb or injection
I post mine on both Cardomain and Photobucket... then I use the HTML URL that they are associated with and just insert or link them here.. Use the Advanced option on this site to insert or link picture images.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
i have no idea what you just said-lol
i am computer stupid, i can build a car from scratch, but barely turn on a computer-if you pm me your email, i can email some pics, but i have no idea how to resize, or do photo stuff, spend way too much time in the garage
most of what i download from the camera is over the 100 kb limit-wish i knew how to do that stuff, i have little patience with computers, last one that got coorupted i put 15 shots in it, then bought another one(for real-lol)
i am computer stupid, i can build a car from scratch, but barely turn on a computer-if you pm me your email, i can email some pics, but i have no idea how to resize, or do photo stuff, spend way too much time in the garage
most of what i download from the camera is over the 100 kb limit-wish i knew how to do that stuff, i have little patience with computers, last one that got coorupted i put 15 shots in it, then bought another one(for real-lol)
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
let me try this-here is the tie rod clearing the pan, after a little tweaking of the pitman arm/idler-when the howe link arrives, i will put unaltered arms on and show how it fits, playing with the shims-bump steer should not be a factor