First Gen Camero LS1 swap headers
#1
First Gen Camero LS1 swap headers
I know that Hooker and SW make headers (crazy money), has anyone tried truck headers or any others to see if they will fit. If I have to I will get the Hooker long tubes but I would rather spend my money on other things.
#4
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Dude, you aren't going to get a lot of willing help if you insult the guys that know everything.
Unless you are pretty decent at building up headers, I highly recommend buying them premade. The biggest issue with the first gens is the location of the steering box. That is what dictates the routing on the primaries. Most truck headers will make a center dump approach, and try to occupy the exact same location as the steering gear. Long tubes will cost, but there are several mid-lengths on the market that are a bit cheaper, and still make decent power. We used the S&P coated swap headers ($535), and are very happy with them. Your motor mount offset will determine which set of headers you need however.
Unless you are pretty decent at building up headers, I highly recommend buying them premade. The biggest issue with the first gens is the location of the steering box. That is what dictates the routing on the primaries. Most truck headers will make a center dump approach, and try to occupy the exact same location as the steering gear. Long tubes will cost, but there are several mid-lengths on the market that are a bit cheaper, and still make decent power. We used the S&P coated swap headers ($535), and are very happy with them. Your motor mount offset will determine which set of headers you need however.
#5
I wasn't trying to insult him I was just pointing out that I already did a lot of research and I know that company X has a mount that they say will work with just their headers and so does company Y. I was looking to see if anyone has found an alternative. I have a technician for a long time so I know how to fabricate and like to find better ways to do things if it at all possible. It is easy to open your checkbook and buy what a company wants you to buy, that doesn't mean that there isn't a better setup someplace else. Even researching the mounts that people are using from the header companies some people are still having to dimple the tubes to clear the steering gear.
Rodder, no insult intended, your car looks nice and you have a good site with pics for people to look at how you did yours. I looks like you did your swap over a year ago, new products come out and new ideas arise, I was just looking for the newest information I could find.
Rodder, no insult intended, your car looks nice and you have a good site with pics for people to look at how you did yours. I looks like you did your swap over a year ago, new products come out and new ideas arise, I was just looking for the newest information I could find.
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If you can fab, then it shouldn't be hard at all for you to get something together. Buy a set of flanges and one of the universal build your own header sets and get cracking. Everyone is waiting for a cheaper alternative, but not all of us are that confident in our welding skills. I have some good pics of the LS in our 67 if you want them. There really is a lot of room on the passenger side, but on the 1,3,5 you need to clear the steering box (or shafts for someone with a rack). There is not as much room to work on the driver side at all. If you can dump some decent collectors along the trans, at a decent ground clearance, make a jig so you can build them again. You could make some side cash that way. One complaint I have with the S&P setup is the indexing on the O2 sensors, the driver side comes VERY close to the subframe.
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I did my own headers, Hooker announced theirs just after I started with mine.
Adding everything up, GM flanges, Hooker U-pipes, ceramic coating and the time I say that my homemade cost me more than a set from Hooker would have.
Even if you can make them yourself it mightnot be the most economical choice.
Here is one photo of how mine turned out. Note: this is before they got coated.
Jan
Adding everything up, GM flanges, Hooker U-pipes, ceramic coating and the time I say that my homemade cost me more than a set from Hooker would have.
Even if you can make them yourself it mightnot be the most economical choice.
Here is one photo of how mine turned out. Note: this is before they got coated.
Jan
#10
I figured that out too. I guess I will go with the Hooker headers. It would be nice to have access to some GTO, Camaro, truck headers to do some comparisons. I know the ports on the old D port Hedmans I had for my LT1 don't line up but the tubes setup was pretty close, the #3 was still an issue, if they switched the 1 and 3 at the collector it would work. Thats the way it goes.
#12
The stainless ones are nice but they are only 1 5/8" tubes, the Hookers are 1 3/4". I think the flow advantage is worth the difference. With my combination I think the bigger tubes will do some good. Thanks for the info on the Stainless Works. They do look like nice headers.
#14
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The stainless ones are nice but they are only 1 5/8" tubes, the Hookers are 1 3/4". I think the flow advantage is worth the difference. With my combination I think the bigger tubes will do some good. Thanks for the info on the Stainless Works. They do look like nice headers.
#15
Yep, your right, I thought I saw 1 5/8". I also thought they were cheaper the other day too, dang they went up to $841 for the standard finish Camaro ones, my car might get 4-5000 miles a year on it so I am not too concerned about burning the coating off. I have seen a lean tune screw up the coating.
#16
has anyone tried to mod BBC headers?
im thinking about bying a set of 1 3/4 BBC headers for my 72 nova and a set of ls1 headers flanges then a bit of cuting n weilding............it mite just work!!
im thinking about bying a set of 1 3/4 BBC headers for my 72 nova and a set of ls1 headers flanges then a bit of cuting n weilding............it mite just work!!
#17
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Some of the earlier swap guys used Pacesetters from a 4th Gen Camaro. The collectors may need to be cut and rewelded though because they point out but that could be your cheapest and easiest route. I would be careful about the SW headers. Look for my post as to the fit and finish with those. Even if they clear the steering box it does not mean they will clear the idler arm. I was set on going with stainless after going through a set of coated headers in about 4-5 years. Edlebrock is making some stainless headers for about $600. Which is a good price they are coated 409 as opposed to 304 stainless like the others.