First Gen Camero LS1 swap headers
First Gen Camero LS1 swap headers I know that Hooker and SW make headers (crazy money), has anyone tried truck headers or any others to see if they will fit. If I have to I will get the Hooker long tubes but I would rather spend my money on other things.
I already know that, why do you think I asked if there are any alternatives. I can make my own mounts so that is not an issue. BTW I do know how to spell Camaro, geez, you never make typos, must me nice.
Dude, you aren't going to get a lot of willing help if you insult the guys that know everything.
Unless you are pretty decent at building up headers, I highly recommend buying them premade. The biggest issue with the first gens is the location of the steering box. That is what dictates the routing on the primaries. Most truck headers will make a center dump approach, and try to occupy the exact same location as the steering gear. Long tubes will cost, but there are several mid-lengths on the market that are a bit cheaper, and still make decent power. We used the S&P coated swap headers ($535), and are very happy with them. Your motor mount offset will determine which set of headers you need however.
Unless you are pretty decent at building up headers, I highly recommend buying them premade. The biggest issue with the first gens is the location of the steering box. That is what dictates the routing on the primaries. Most truck headers will make a center dump approach, and try to occupy the exact same location as the steering gear. Long tubes will cost, but there are several mid-lengths on the market that are a bit cheaper, and still make decent power. We used the S&P coated swap headers ($535), and are very happy with them. Your motor mount offset will determine which set of headers you need however.
I wasn't trying to insult him I was just pointing out that I already did a lot of research and I know that company X has a mount that they say will work with just their headers and so does company Y. I was looking to see if anyone has found an alternative. I have a technician for a long time so I know how to fabricate and like to find better ways to do things if it at all possible. It is easy to open your checkbook and buy what a company wants you to buy, that doesn't mean that there isn't a better setup someplace else. Even researching the mounts that people are using from the header companies some people are still having to dimple the tubes to clear the steering gear.
Rodder, no insult intended, your car looks nice and you have a good site with pics for people to look at how you did yours. I looks like you did your swap over a year ago, new products come out and new ideas arise, I was just looking for the newest information I could find.
Rodder, no insult intended, your car looks nice and you have a good site with pics for people to look at how you did yours. I looks like you did your swap over a year ago, new products come out and new ideas arise, I was just looking for the newest information I could find.
If you can fab, then it shouldn't be hard at all for you to get something together. Buy a set of flanges and one of the universal build your own header sets and get cracking. Everyone is waiting for a cheaper alternative, but not all of us are that confident in our welding skills. I have some good pics of the LS in our 67 if you want them. There really is a lot of room on the passenger side, but on the 1,3,5 you need to clear the steering box (or shafts for someone with a rack). There is not as much room to work on the driver side at all. If you can dump some decent collectors along the trans, at a decent ground clearance, make a jig so you can build them again. You could make some side cash that way. One complaint I have with the S&P setup is the indexing on the O2 sensors, the driver side comes VERY close to the subframe.
the stainless works arent that much more money and the o2 bungs are in the slip on collecters so you can index them however you want. i have these and they even clear the power box (barely), plus they will never corode or peel.
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On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Stockholm, Sweden
I did my own headers, Hooker announced theirs just after I started with mine.
Adding everything up, GM flanges, Hooker U-pipes, ceramic coating and the time I say that my homemade cost me more than a set from Hooker would have.
Even if you can make them yourself it mightnot be the most economical choice.
Here is one photo of how mine turned out. Note: this is before they got coated.
Jan
Adding everything up, GM flanges, Hooker U-pipes, ceramic coating and the time I say that my homemade cost me more than a set from Hooker would have.
Even if you can make them yourself it mightnot be the most economical choice.
Here is one photo of how mine turned out. Note: this is before they got coated.
Jan
I figured that out too. I guess I will go with the Hooker headers. It would be nice to have access to some GTO, Camaro, truck headers to do some comparisons. I know the ports on the old D port Hedmans I had for my LT1 don't line up but the tubes setup was pretty close, the #3 was still an issue, if they switched the 1 and 3 at the collector it would work. Thats the way it goes.
The stainless ones are nice but they are only 1 5/8" tubes, the Hookers are 1 3/4". I think the flow advantage is worth the difference. With my combination I think the bigger tubes will do some good. Thanks for the info on the Stainless Works. They do look like nice headers.
The stainless ones are nice but they are only 1 5/8" tubes, the Hookers are 1 3/4". I think the flow advantage is worth the difference. With my combination I think the bigger tubes will do some good. Thanks for the info on the Stainless Works. They do look like nice headers.
Yep, your right, I thought I saw 1 5/8". I also thought they were cheaper the other day too, dang they went up to $841 for the standard finish Camaro ones, my car might get 4-5000 miles a year on it so I am not too concerned about burning the coating off. I have seen a lean tune screw up the coating.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Ventura, Ca
Some of the earlier swap guys used Pacesetters from a 4th Gen Camaro. The collectors may need to be cut and rewelded though because they point out but that could be your cheapest and easiest route. I would be careful about the SW headers. Look for my post as to the fit and finish with those. Even if they clear the steering box it does not mean they will clear the idler arm. I was set on going with stainless after going through a set of coated headers in about 4-5 years. Edlebrock is making some stainless headers for about $600. Which is a good price they are coated 409 as opposed to 304 stainless like the others.
