Help Please
Question
1 Does the symptoms seem like it may be a vats issue?
2 If they made this for a older gm vehicle with the incorrect ends and mine are different could the wiring on the connectors be wrong is the wiring different between the two.
Thanks for any help not sure were to start or what to look for.
If it was the VAT.. it normally will startup for a second or two and die.
For a test, I would get one of those NOID Light tester and plug it into the Injector conector and and see if it is lighting up when the PCM triggers the injector..
There are other test for both the injectors and the coils.. Are you getting voltage to the coils ? See if you can get a Scanner and plug it into the ODBII connector and crank it over and watch to see if the sensors are outputting a singal.
Have you also check to make sure the grounds are secure on the back of the head going into the harness (usually 3 grounds). Suggest you go over all of the connectors to see if the are secure, lose or broken. Are you getting 12+volts in both the BAT+ and Ing leads into the PCM ?
Do these findings seem OK and is there any way to check for voltage at the coils with meter if so which of the four wires.
Any other suggestions would be much appreciated thank you.

91 Z28 LS2 408CI, LS9 Supercharger, LPE GT7 cam, Yank3000, 3450 raceweight.
Latest numbers: 9.71 ET, 141.42 MPH, 1.40 60' , 610 RWHP Mustang Dyno
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On the injectors ther should be a pink wire at pin A of each injector. This should also be hot in run and start.
Note: on the coils test from the pink wire to a known ground, not just between the two wires. On the coils you can either test between Ground and the pink wire or you can test between the pink wire and the black wire at pin A(The black wire is the ground wire for all the coils)
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I'd look in to what Speartech mentioned about the ignition staying on during cranking. Some ignition switches will give you ignition power when the key is in runso you hear the Pump prime, and then it turns off when in crank. Make sure you have power to that post/wire on both run and crank.
No spark is usually something with the Crank sensor or the wiring to it.






