carb vs. efi swap cost?
carb vs. efi swap cost? I'm wondering if anyone has figured out about the difference in cost on a efi or carb swap on a ls1 swap. I don't mean total cost of a swap just on the componets that are need for each. such as harnesses msd ect. I did a search and evryone seems to conclude that a carb swap is cheaper but I haven't seen a hard lisat of cost or part's needed for either ans was wondering if anyone has figured it out yet. thanks
I'm wondering if anyone has figured out about the difference in cost on a efi or carb swap on a ls1 swap. I don't mean total cost of a swap just on the componets that are need for each. such as harnesses msd ect. I did a search and evryone seems to conclude that a carb swap is cheaper but I haven't seen a hard lisat of cost or part's needed for either ans was wondering if anyone has figured it out yet. thanks
Me personally I bought a complete drop out. Sent the PCM off for programming and did the wiring myself.
If what you are starting with is a complete engine with harness and PCM, a carb swap would cost more by far. You would have to spend almost a grand on just the carb and intake/ignition set up, some of the cost could be offset by parting out the intake and harness, but it would still cost more.
If your going to convert a LS1 to carb, you might as well just keep the SB chevy V8 you already have. A lot of the magic of late model V8 engines is in the FI. An engine with a carb will never run as good as a FI motor.
just my 2 cents.
Re'
If your going to convert a LS1 to carb, you might as well just keep the SB chevy V8 you already have. A lot of the magic of late model V8 engines is in the FI. An engine with a carb will never run as good as a FI motor.
just my 2 cents.
Re'
depending on how you buy your motor.... and what it comes with...
A CARB SWAP is easier and more cost effective unless you get a good deal... on the long block with intake and injectors... and MAF THROTTLE body... COMPUTER ...WIRING HARNESS... FUEL PUMP ... and FUEL LINES... then you may need to PROGRAM...
WIth a Carb swap... You cut out most of this stuff...
Me I spent 1500. On heads and short block.. less than 1,000 with carb intake and MSD included conversion for TH350... so I had 2500 in it... with NO HEADACHES... NO HIGH PRESSURE fuel system... no computer programing...less wiring....
and I made a 12.3 pass at 111 !!
A CARB SWAP is easier and more cost effective unless you get a good deal... on the long block with intake and injectors... and MAF THROTTLE body... COMPUTER ...WIRING HARNESS... FUEL PUMP ... and FUEL LINES... then you may need to PROGRAM...
WIth a Carb swap... You cut out most of this stuff...
Me I spent 1500. On heads and short block.. less than 1,000 with carb intake and MSD included conversion for TH350... so I had 2500 in it... with NO HEADACHES... NO HIGH PRESSURE fuel system... no computer programing...less wiring....
and I made a 12.3 pass at 111 !!
Be carefull what you say here. Someone may take it the wrong way. My carbed Lq4 81Z has beaten 420rwhp ls1 4th gens and would make short work of any mildly modified LS1 f-body or vette.
The driveability/economy/emissions is in the EFI. The power is in the heads. Even stock LS1 heads beat the crap out of most good aftermarket smallblock Chevy heads--that's why people upgrade to an LSx and then slap an old carb on it.
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^ Exactly, the heads are a big plus. When I had my 350, I was about to spend a bunch on some iron heads that barely keep up with my stock aluminum 317's. Not only that, but I got 6bolt mains instead of 2 or 4. I got a roller cam instead of a flat tappet. I don't feel like I took a step back by using a carb on my Lq4 especially when you look at all the things I gained. And I agree, the cost depends on what you have when you start and after that it's all in what kind of deals you get on the things you need.
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I think a lot depends on the intended use of the car, and like the others said, what you get with your motor when you buy it. If you plan to drive it on the street a lot and drivability and fuel economy are factors, then the EFI is definitely the way to go. For a track only car, there are advocates in both camps. I think you can make similar power with either one.
Pat
Pat
they also make excellant door stops.I just feel that if I'm going to the expense and trouble to install an LS1, I might as well keep the FI. I could build a carbed SB 350 that makes as much or more power than it would cost to do a carbed LS1(not counting killer deals).
Re'
And I'm sure it starts easily and runs flawless in the dead of winter. There's nothing wrong with carbs. Both my riding tractor and weed eater have one, they also make excellant door stops.
I just feel that if I'm going to the expense and trouble to install an LS1, I might as well keep the FI. I could build a carbed SB 350 that makes as much or more power than it would cost to do a carbed LS1(not counting killer deals).
Re'
they also make excellant door stops.I just feel that if I'm going to the expense and trouble to install an LS1, I might as well keep the FI. I could build a carbed SB 350 that makes as much or more power than it would cost to do a carbed LS1(not counting killer deals).
Re'
In terms of performance we can call it a draw. In terms of drivability the EFI will win. Both catagories fall under the criteria of how well an engine "Runs".
My reasons fro using the carb were simple. The car had already been using an electric fuel pump and carb, and The LQ4 I bought was a long block without any induction or electronics. The carb conversion parts were second hand. I've got about $550.00 into the conversion. I'm still looking for all the parts to convert to factory EFI to gain the cold start and drivability features. I may lose a few ponies at WOT but it's a good trade off.
I wonder how good a riding tractor would go with a double pumper on it?
Iwill take a carb anyday, You dont need a $700 dollar carb, get a good 750dp and go. The fuel system for the fi will cost some bucks, and it will cost every time you do something and need to get it tunded, 200-400 bucks.
Or you can buy a tuner once and forget about it..... Your tune ups will last longer, as will your rings.
Or you can constantly tune a carb for the different seasons, altitudes, etc that you may find..... And do it over, and over, and over again.... because they don't keep their adjustments long..
Or you can constantly tune a carb for the different seasons, altitudes, etc that you may find..... And do it over, and over, and over again.... because they don't keep their adjustments long..
