Thanks for the reply! Are their any issues drilling and tapping the GM Muscle Car pan for the relief valve? The casting seems to have a place for the valve, but it is not drilled or tapped.....

 

Holley's pan is now available thru summit for $400...
Before the design was sold to Holley, the RetroLSX guy who was advertising them talked about how the 2nd design of the pan would better address the clearance issues of the steering linkage for the A-body (not on this thread).

So, the million $ question now seems to be... did the steering clearance issue get addressed in Holley's design or not? Anyone know?

Also, has anyone tried this pan in an A-body yet? If so, please provide us with your impressions.

Great thread btw-- very informative.

 

I believe I can answer that question just by seeing close up pictures or better yet a blueprint of the final design.

 

I have no idea how they cast the pan so I can not answer that one.

 

I've got one of each pan (classic RetroLSX and new Holley), will try to answer the question in my '67 chevelle this coming weekend for everyone.

A follow-up question (which I may post as it's own thread), when people space their motors up to clear the steering stuff, how much are they spacing them up exactly? Would a "tall" solid motor mount be enough of a height change to remedy?

 

Here are some pics I snapped tonight, Holley pan on right, RetroLSX on left. Holley pan improved capacity (notice growth along rails and internal rearward depth across the rear of the sump), baffling around pick-up, and some other minor things. The forward corners are a little shorter (about 1/2" on extreme corners), measuring the pickup tube depth inside the front of the engine, I don't know if there's anymore to go..























Will be sticking in the car this weekend hopefully!

 

Awesome pics-- thanks for the reply!

Good luck with the wrenching this weekend-- let us know how it goes

 

what is the cheapest oilpan option i have for a 67 camaro (little welding experience)?

 

To follow up on the new Holley pan, when using the Hooker motor mount adapter plates and Moroso 62515 "tall" motor mounts, there is a TON of inner tie rod clearance. Easily 3/4" on passenger side and probably only 1/2" on driver side. I need to get the engine leveled up, but most likely makes even 5/8" on each side.

This is an LS2 in my '67 malibu using stock SBC frame stands.











That's a manual steering gear and all stock steering. I'm going to stick a power gear in it tonight just to tie up loose ends.

In my personal opinion, a slightly shorter motor mount would still have ample room and would improve firewall/trans tunnel clearance. The 62515 mounts are 3/4" taller (purely vertical gain) than a stock height mount, so tie rods probably just barely touch with a stock height mount. A shim as thin as one or two washers would probably do the trick..

Lastly, it's within a millimeter, but you can stab an LS with T56 attached as one unit as long as you have one of these load leveler deals. ..in a smidge, down a smidge, in a smidge, etc..

 

Last night I tried to put my headers in with these tall motor mounts installed and bad news in the collector to floor pan department. I'm going to try a set of Moroso 62510 solids or 3.1117 energy susp polys (same height). Should still clear tie rods (3/8" shorter), but get the headers away from the floors a bit.

 

Nice work TJ...

Andrew

 

Can you give me the measurements on this oilpan?

Thank you!

 

It's $399 now... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-302-1

 

The very first post in this thread dimensions that pan

 

NOS327, Great info here! I'm just stepping into the same swap into my 67 Chevelle. Did you open up your tunnel for that t56? What hedders are you trying to fit?

 

PMed. Hooker 2289 headers, which are for 68-72, so there are minor issues, but they will work. I'll get a build thread together soon to detail my stuff.

Back to the new Holley oil pan, I'm really happy with it. I've test fit two different sets of motor mounts now, the Moroso 62510 (crosses to 3.1117 poly or OEM 3962748) which measures 2-1/8" tall. Tie rods still clear by a comfortable margin, but I'd still like some more bellhousing clearance behind. The hard plastic T56 vent tube is snug against the tunnel now.





So I dug out my old 62500 solid mounts, which measure about 1-3/4" tall (cross to poly 3.1114 or OEM 3990914). After a couple iterations of in and out, the tie rods clear if I stick one washer between the mount and the Hooker motor mount adapter plates (washer is a 3/8 flat washer, measures 1/16" thick). I think a little jockeying could probably make it clear with no washer/shim. I'll end up with poly mounts in the car, so I'll get a final fit check then..









Those pics are at full lock with the steering limiters tight against the lower a-frames in their respective directions..

Lastly, here's how the sump positions itself vertically with respect to the k-member.

 

I just can't do the solid mounts on a street car personally. The vibration is too much for me.

 

I hear ya. My blue chevelle has solid mounts and it's a bit much. Eventually you get numb to it, but this red car build needs some more creature comfort.

 

Got my F-body oil pan and pickup tube in the mail today. What else do I need for this swap? It's going into an LQ4. I will be replacing the oil pump, also. Do I need a pump that matches the motor or the pan?

Thanks!

This is what I got:

 

"Got my F-body oil pan and pickup tube in the mail today. What else do I need for this swap? It's going into an LQ4. I will be replacing the oil pump, also. Do I need a pump that matches the motor or the pan?"

You will need a dipstick and dipstick tube. I'm not sure about the oil pump. I did not change my oil pump. I converted my lq4 pan to the F body set up.