Where is the best place for a hidden kill switch ??
Where is the best place for a hidden kill switch ?? Hi Guys:
We're building and almost done with swapping an LS1 into a BMW E30. We are keeping the VATS, and have an output module for sending the VATS to the PCM. We'd like to put in an additional cut-off switch for those times we don't want to remove the VATS module.
So, where's a good place for a kill switch:
The coil side of the fuel pump relay?
The coil side of the starter relay?
The power or ground or output wire of the VATS module?
Some other place??
See our swap at:
Thanks Garret & Steve almost done......
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=699289
We're building and almost done with swapping an LS1 into a BMW E30. We are keeping the VATS, and have an output module for sending the VATS to the PCM. We'd like to put in an additional cut-off switch for those times we don't want to remove the VATS module.
So, where's a good place for a kill switch:
The coil side of the fuel pump relay?
The coil side of the starter relay?
The power or ground or output wire of the VATS module?
Some other place??
See our swap at:
Thanks Garret & Steve almost done......
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=699289
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
The starter would be the worst place to put it, you can easily just crawl under and jump it with a screw driver. Spark would be the best place, I would go to the PCM power or the ignition power coils.
I didnt know they had a "vats delete" for passkey 3+. Where did you get yours from?
I didnt know they had a "vats delete" for passkey 3+. Where did you get yours from?
Cut power to the ignition coils they will have to screw with to much stuff to justify the time in stealing it. If you are using an external module for the vats do yourself a favor and tune it out. If it's the module I am thinking of all it does is mimic the vats signal and is not actually a reliable form of theft protection.
Last edited by 01WS6/tamu; Nov 26, 2007 at 10:10 PM.
The starter would be the worst place to put it, you can easily just crawl under and jump it with a screw driver. Spark would be the best place, I would go to the PCM power or the ignition power coils.
I didnt know they had a "vats delete" for passkey 3+. Where did you get yours from?
I didnt know they had a "vats delete" for passkey 3+. Where did you get yours from?
That's what I've done. Except I use a magnetic reed switch that you can hide behind/under the panels/carpet. Then instead of pushing a button you swipe a magnet over the switch.
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Verdad Gallardo I am basically saying your idea isn't the best/easiest route. Why try to cut power to something that draws that kind of current. When you have so many other low votage wires that can be easily switched. The idea is to have a small switch that cant be seen. You also have to take into account that you will have to use this switch often. So, you want it to be a smooth invisible motion that deactivates the disabeling or the switch would be spotted. With a little push who needs a starter anyways?
The other advantage of a fuel cut at least in my honda (haven't done one on my ls1 yet) is that there is enough fuel pressure to power the car for a short time. This may get it out into the street or out of a parking spot before it dies. Then the car will stand out more and make the thief more nervous. Theoretically. I have thought about this quite a bit but luckily none of it has been tested. Going to knock on wood now.
The other advantage of a fuel cut at least in my honda (haven't done one on my ls1 yet) is that there is enough fuel pressure to power the car for a short time. This may get it out into the street or out of a parking spot before it dies. Then the car will stand out more and make the thief more nervous. Theoretically. I have thought about this quite a bit but luckily none of it has been tested. Going to knock on wood now.
Last edited by blacksi; Nov 27, 2007 at 09:39 AM.
I have a mag. reed switch on the 86 I just bought. It requires you to place the little tag JUST right. Or else the car will do nothing. No crank...no nothing. If you are off by just a tiny bit, the switch will not trigger. Also, I tried to trick it with pen magnets. Tried using two at once, tried a big magnet...nothing. Couldnt get it to work. Works really well.
I think Im going to upgrade to the racetronix fuel pump harness...and when I do, Im also going to install a manual switch to kill fuel pump power. That wont get used all the time. Only when I feel its needed.
I tried using the vats bypass module as a security device. Its just not the best solution.
Here is my key tag...And there is NO visual evidence of the receptor. Its hidden behind the dash plastic in an odd, but convenient place. But thats all Im going to say about that
At first it was sort of a pain to unhook the tag, place it, then put it back on my keychain. But Ive since become accustomed to it, and I dont even think about it now. And if I ever loose both of my tags, I know how to manually disable it. Takes some work, but Ide never be stranded. 
J.
Thanks for the replies. I think the reed switch is the ***** -- absolutely no way to figure it out if you don't know what/where it is. I decided to put my switch on the coil-side of the main relay: No PCM, no fuel pump, no key start to the starter.
For added security at car shows, replace a few fuses with blown ones. We have several dissable techniques on our car, but even after shutting off the fuel pump with a hidden switch, and the ignition wire to the starter with a fake connector, we like to also replace the fuel pump fuse with a bad one. An extra layer of security to delay a resourcefull thief. It is much easier to trust your fellow man if you have made it harder for him to be untrustworthy...
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
I saw an idea where you run a ground wire from a fused wire to ground. It is normally Off. For security you flick it On. Then if they try to run the car, the fuse grounds and blows. To start it they have to search the fuses and replace it.
Just remember to switch it off before starting.
Just remember to switch it off before starting.
hook up the seatbelt ground so it grounds a relay that allows the pcm or starter to be enabled.
Most theives will not think about buckling up, and it is something that you can do automatically and not worry about anybody seeing the switch.
Most theives will not think about buckling up, and it is something that you can do automatically and not worry about anybody seeing the switch.
