rockytopper

Pete, Gary is right I simply used his photo to communicate to you guys what I needed to know. My evil bay Engine and trans is completely assembled with harness and all. Even manifolds. Believe me when (I set- R-in) I'm going to see the issues. I can not begin to thank all of you guys for the info and vast knowledge I have already gained from your help and input. The A/C comp and belt will be removed before first fit. I all ready know the cross member has to be cut out for the factory A/C location on the 2002 F-body configuration. I am going to try as a base line to set the engine & trans interface plane the same as my factory setup to begin with and adjust from there.

Speaking of factory a/c boxes are any of you using the factory box and running the factory system using the Ls1 comp? if so I will need some info on making that work. For now does the engine clear the factory heater tubes and box at the fire wall with out modifing it in the chevelle? Please say yes it will save me a bundle. My factory system is all brand new already.

Check out my thread about ram air design in the making.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

YES, I am using all of my factory Chevelle AC box, Controls, Evap, condensor, etc.. the only part that is not Chevelle Factory is the LS1 AC Compressor. The Chevelle Control panel is used like stock to control the heater, ac, etc..

The only extra part that I added was a later model Heater control vavle that I put on the heater hose to bypass the hot water back to the block instead of being routed to the heater core/box. A vacuum controled one worked.

The Heater/AC box is very close, with the stock coil and wire.. the box is just about touching. The F-Body ex manifold is about a 1 1/2", I have use some of the Cool-It Mats on the box to keep from getting Heated up.

I converted to R134.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Isn't there something about the newer AC compressors that will cause them not to last as long or work as well with the older style systems? Bczee I know you have gotten yours working very well so maybe its more of a theoritical issue than an actual serious problem.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Pete.. I can't comment on these problem that you have are talking about, as I am not sure of which ones they are, I am not a expert on AC, but I know a few things.

One issue is that the R12 and R134 working pressure are different. The R134 has a higher working pressure. You are suppose to use about 75% of the charge of R134 as compared to the R12 (ie. if your R12 car is suppose to use 4 lbs.. you would use 3 lbs of R134).

The R12 system must be flushed of the R12 oil and replaced with the correct oil for a R134 system .(PAC ?). Hoses, seals, o-rings have been noted to brake down and leak due to the differences in oil and R134. They recommend that you do change the seals (compressor), o-ring, dryer, hose and flush the system.

As far as it being a serious problem.. I have heard, see and did convertions to R134 myself. Some have been done correctly and other have just evaculated the system and filled with R134. (I did one like this many years ago and it is still working!)

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

I understand the differences in R12 and R13a naturally. It just seems like I remember reading somewhere about the issues of using a newer style compressor with the older systems and I don't believe it was because of the type of refrigerant used. I could be remembering wrong and even if I am not you are proving the issues to be non-existant every time you turn on your AC.