ls1 efi 2 carb swap!
ls1 efi 2 carb swap! Anybody converted they're ls1 from ehi to carb? What all does the swap call for as far as needed parts and sensors that can be discarded from the engine. I'm looking to put a carb 98' f-body ls1 into my 80' Caprice and I do not have the patience for the fuel injections headaches. I also have the 4l60e trans that came with the motor and I would likw to use it if there is an aftermarket trans controller that will also get the job done with minimal mods required. Any and all replies are welcomed and appreiated as I don't have a clue as to where to start.
The aftermarket tranny controller is going to cost you $1200. It wouldn't be very smart to get rid of the pcm that will control the tranny just to create a bigger headache with an aftermarket controller. Keep the injection. You will be much better off.
If you want to do away with the computer completely this is what you have to do. Call Summit Racing or Pace Performance and tell them what you are doing. You will need the GM Timing Cover and gear for a front mount distributor, then you will need a Ford 302 Distributor from MSD or whichever brand you want, then call WEGNER MOTORSPORTS and get the water pump spacers and bolts. I would suggest using a Mezeire electric water pump with this setup so you don't have to worry about the belts lining up. Then of course you will need a new intake which I would recommend the GMPP carb intake and a carb. Probably a 750 or so.
To fix the tranny issue just buy a shift kit and a manual valve body for a 4l60e and there you go. You will just have to shift it manually but you still have a overdrive auto.
To fix the tranny issue just buy a shift kit and a manual valve body for a 4l60e and there you go. You will just have to shift it manually but you still have a overdrive auto.
I'm confused here. I would like to utilize all the components that are on the ls1 except for the efi. I was under the assumption that the computer only controlled the efi and the trans. Ford distr and water pump spacers are a bit more of a headache than using the oe equip.
edelbrock intake, holley carb, MSD igniton, done with the engine.
deuce4935, i am in the middle of a carb swap. take some advise from people who are doing carb swaps!
get the edelbrock intake, it uses the OEM rubber port seals. the GM intake uses a full length gasket like an older small block.
the ignition for the msd is simple. 12v supply, ground, tach signal, and plug in the cam sensor, crank sensor, and coils. done! you can set your own timing limits with the msd box if you have a lap top, or use one of the 6 pre-set timing pills.
all you need is an electric fuel pump and away you go! i really dont know why people still try to push the front mount dist setup
here is some inspiration! my engine
thats a wegner valley tray. im using that and a 90* pcv fitting in the passenger side valve cover.
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Because a lot of people don't want to run any electronics at all.. Doing away with all the sensors, coil packs, wiring, etc looks a lot cleaner under the hood and that leaves fewer things to go bad. And why not run the front mount distributor? Its easy as hell to use and it makes a street rod so much easier to work with.
That is one heck of a cool looking lift plate, where did you get that?
If you need help with figuring out the conversion feel free to give us a call....
If you need help with figuring out the conversion feel free to give us a call....
Doing away with all the sensors, coil packs, wiring, etc looks a lot cleaner under the hood and that leaves fewer things to go bad.
msd box and victor is just the cheapest at $600. hell i would love to have a mechanical fuel pump! i was dreaming of making some brackets and mounting a belt driven aeromotive fuel pump off of the crank pulley in place of the AC stuff. that would be cool.
All you need is an edelbrock 6010 ls box , use it to run the factory coils and hook it to the cam, crank, and map sensors. then an edelbrock victor jr or dual plane i reccomend the victor jr., as far as the tranny goes sell it and buy a 700r4you will spend a hell of alot more buyin a controller for the 60e as far as the converter and flywheel goes you just need a truck flywheel "they have dual bolt patt. on most 6.0s i know" the converter is also no fregan problem , any converter shop can do a weld on pilot ext. Like DCX said take it from people who have done it!!! the front drive dis. **** is wayyyy over priced !!!, Heck you can buy a ls motor and jet it runnin the way were tellin you for what the front drive and all the stuff to go with it cost!!!
BTW. i have a carbed 6.0 done this way with a glide and 9.5" converter behind it and it runs like Hell!!!
BTW. i have a carbed 6.0 done this way with a glide and 9.5" converter behind it and it runs like Hell!!! 
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 49
Likes: 2
From: Iowa City, IA
Has anyone used the XIM controller that F.A.S.T offers? It looks like it would work well with a carb setup since all it controls is the spark using the cam and crank sensors to control the factory coils. There seems to be a lot of problems lately with the MSD boxes, so I was wondering if this would be a better alternative? Also, Wegner offers a spark controller that uses the larger coils packs similar to the late model Grand Prixs that use the DIS system.
I do like the fast box , just a lil more$$$ Would using the truck flywheel for the 700-r4 also require the use of the trucks starter? I'm not sure if the starters are the same for the cars and trucks. Remember how the gen1 motors had 153 and 162 tooth flywheels and the starters had to be matched to the flywheel.
i think the truck flywheel is flat, and has a spacer bet. the crank and flywheel (if it had a 4l80e trans/also turbo 400) the flywheel that was used for the 4l60e did not use a spacer, and had a diff shape-my guess is this same setup would work for a 7004r
The starters are the same, the truck has a flat flexplate and the spacer behind it places the flexplate in the correct location. The f body uses a dished plate and requires no spacer. You can make the converter work in a few different configurations, I have seen the F-body flexplate used and the Truck spacer installed on the converter side with the longer bolts to support the converter snout. With this method you will still need to elongate the bolt holes in the flexplate. You can also order a converter with a extended snout to work with the F-body flexplate but will still need to elongate the bolt holes in most applications. Or last of all, you find a 6.0 truck plate with spacer and you can use your stock non ls converter with little to no effort.
