relocating fbody alternator to upper driverside for free
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ok first of all this is if you have the fbody acc. and alternator and if you are only wanting to run the waterpump and the alternator.
first take your stock fbody alt. bracket and cut the top tabs off(the upper ones that point out to the driverside). it is very important that you cut the correct tabs off because if you do not the idler pulley will be pointing straight up and will cause the belt to come in contact with belt looping off the top of the alt pulley.
now move the bracket up and with the center bolt in the bracket put that in the highest hole in the block on the driverside, and clock the bottom tabs out towards the driverside.
now you will have to trim the black plastic part on the alternator. just trim off the raised center section.
now put a through bolt in the bottom bracket holes and through the bottom hole in the alternator.
pick the alt up and using the 2 tabs you just cut off for spacers bolt the top of the alt to the head.
this will also allow you to use the stock idler pulley which is going to give you a nice wrap on the crank pulley.
![](http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/th_DSCN0448.jpg)
![](http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/th_DSCN0449.jpg)
![](http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/th_DSCN0451.jpg)
![](http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/th_DSCN0452.jpg)
first take your stock fbody alt. bracket and cut the top tabs off(the upper ones that point out to the driverside). it is very important that you cut the correct tabs off because if you do not the idler pulley will be pointing straight up and will cause the belt to come in contact with belt looping off the top of the alt pulley.
now move the bracket up and with the center bolt in the bracket put that in the highest hole in the block on the driverside, and clock the bottom tabs out towards the driverside.
now you will have to trim the black plastic part on the alternator. just trim off the raised center section.
now put a through bolt in the bottom bracket holes and through the bottom hole in the alternator.
pick the alt up and using the 2 tabs you just cut off for spacers bolt the top of the alt to the head.
this will also allow you to use the stock idler pulley which is going to give you a nice wrap on the crank pulley.
![](http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/th_DSCN0448.jpg)
![](http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/th_DSCN0449.jpg)
![](http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/th_DSCN0451.jpg)
![](http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/th_DSCN0452.jpg)
![](http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i135/s2000z/th_DSCN0453.jpg)
Last edited by SMAX; 02-03-2008 at 10:52 PM.
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Nicely done. Its a darn close fit on my 67 between the alternator and the steering box. If i wasn't running power steering this would solve my problem for sure. However, with some careful grinding the steering box I made it fit.
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Good thinking there.. I like Pist0lPete.. just had to grind a bit on the steering box and I was good..
Have you tried doing the same method on moving it to the top passenger side ?.. If I do my Nova.. I will be looking other low cost mounting of the accessories, but will need both the Alternator and Power Steering Pump.
Have you tried doing the same method on moving it to the top passenger side ?.. If I do my Nova.. I will be looking other low cost mounting of the accessories, but will need both the Alternator and Power Steering Pump.
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i probably could have a little grinding on the steering box, but i have manual steering and i did not like the little amount of crank pulley wrap this would have given me. now i just need to wire the alternator and measure for a belt.