I am working on some brackets to use an old style compressor that will work with a 4.8, 5.3, or 6.0.
I need to machine one spacer then I can get some pics.
I wouldn't care to make some for you guys if it was something you were interested in for a nominal price.
I hope that within the next few days to post some pics.

 

Man, that would be great. Let me know and if they work I'd like to have one. It would save me looking for an s10 bracket. Would I need another idler pulley?
thanks greg

 

What I am working on has a bracket for compressor, and one idler pulley.
The bracket allows the compressor to hinge at the bottom and a solid turn buckle that will tighten the belt.
Once I get everything finished up (again hopefully this or next week) and gets some pics posted...if you decide you want what I have, I will send the brackets, pulley and turnbuckle. I can also send the belt, or the # so you can pick one up locally.

 

Sound great.

 

Now that I'm awake, I'll be heading to the yard to find a different tensioner........

joy joy

-jason

 

pnhigg, I'm chimming in to see if you will have a bracket done within a couple of weeks. I'm taking my truck in about the middle of March, possibly a little earlier than that.

thanks greg

 

Ok, found a tensioner that applies tension CCW. Everything seemed to be going well, until the belt starts rubbing the tensioner as it applies tension.......

so I'm going to put an idler pulley at the top, where the current tensioner is, then reuse the F-body ls1 tensioner at the bottom side of the bracket..

Hopefully this works

-jason

 

I should have some pics by the weekend.

 

great

 

what is a variable output compressor and how does it work? is it ECM controlled? my 5.3 is from a 2006 Tahoe and I planned on using the stock compressor

 

yeh, somebody, tell us
locrzn

 

this is straight from the GM manual for a 2006 Tahoe, seems it uses a HVAC control module along with a Body comtrol module to operate the compressor. it is still just a compressor and there has to be a way to just keep it engaged. I am working on it


Pressing the A/C button enables the HVAC control module to request A/C compressor engagement and turn on the A/C button LED. The HVAC control module sends a class 2 message to the PCM for A/C compressor engagement. The powertrain control module (PCM) will provide a ground for the A/C compressor relay enabling it to close its internal contacts to send battery voltage to the A/C compressor clutch coil. The A/C compressor diode will prevent a voltage spike, resulting from the collapse of the magnetic field of the coil, from entering the vehicle electrical system when the compressor is disengaged. Defrost and Defog mode selections will request A/C operation but not turn on the A/C LED.

The following conditions must be met in order for the A/C compressor clutch to turn on:

• Ambient air temperature above 4°C (40°F)

• A/C low pressure switch signal circuit is grounded

• A/C refrigerant pressure sensor parameter is less than 2957 kPa (429 psi)

• PCM receives an A/C request from the HVAC control module

• Engine coolant temperature (ECT) is less than 121°C (250°F)

• The engine RPM is more than 550 RPM

• The throttle position is less than 100%

The HVAC control module monitors the A/C low pressure switch signal circuit. If the voltage signal on this circuit has no voltage drop the module will interpret this condition as a low pressure, disabling the A/C request. The A/C low pressure switch will open its internal contacts at 151 kPa (22 psi). Then close the contacts at 275 kPa (40 psi) to resume A/C operation. This switch assists in cycling the A/C compressor and prevents A/C compressor operation if system has a low refrigerant level.

The PCM monitors the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor signal circuit. The voltage signal on this circuit is proportional to the refrigerant pressure inside the A/C high side pressure line. As the pressure inside the line increases, so does the voltage signal. If the pressure is above 2957 kPa (429 psi), the A/C compressor output is disabled. When the pressure lowers to 1578 kPa (229 psi), the PCM enables the compressor to operate.

The sensor information is used by the PCM to determine the following:

• The A/C high side pressure

• An A/C system load on the engine

• An excessive A/C high side pressure

• The heat load at the A/C condenser

Once engaged, the compressor clutch will be disengaged for the following conditions:

• Ambient air temperature is less than 4°C (40°F)

• Throttle position is 100%

• The A/C low pressure switch is open

• A/C high side pressure is more than 2957 kPa (429 psi)

• A/C low side pressure is less than 151 kPa (22 psi)

• Engine coolant temperature (ECT) is more than 121°C (250°F)

• Engine speed is more than 5500 RPM

• Transmission shift

• PCM detects excessive torque load

• PCM detects insufficient idle quality

• PCM detects a hard launch condition

 

I also have the wiring diagram for the compressor if anyone needs it I can e mail it to them. it looks simple enough if you just supply your own 12 volt signal for the clutch to engage. I just need to see if the compressor internals are standard or some sort of magic

 

Round two tonight.... once it dropped below 50* I quit for the night

http://firebirdandcamaro.net/jason/ac_bracket/AC_mount/

I started with an ac bracket from a 3rd gen. This changed a lot of the mounting points.

I used the outer mounting point, but still need to figure out something for the inner mount.

You can see where i cut the snot out of the stock bracket with a sawzall. The 3rd gen mount is definitely a better starting point for this. It took about an hour of test fitting and cutting.

still open to suggestions

-jason

 

WOW, what I would give for it to even be 50*!!!! Hopefully it'll warm up to that this weekend.

 

good job jay.

 

You know how hard it is to be working under a palm tree and shivering! Its tough! LOL

We had frost last night, which is very unusual. It'll be 77* today, so I'll try to do some organization and cleaning on the car.

Locrzn, you still inspired me to try this. Its been fun and a pita all at the same time. Thanks!

-jason

 

Damn Jay, you need to invest $60.00 in an engine stand at Orielly's. Working on the floor is not good. Hard on your knees. I'll be interested to see the final out come of pnhigg, he is building a bracket and may have it done the weekend.
locrzn

 

Te good ole' A/C topic. Man I love hearing everyone's mods they've made. I'll share mine here. I wanted to stay stock so I used a 5.3/6.0 compressor and machined an extra groove in the f-body harmonic balancer of the F-body. I'm using the 97 pressure switches and it works like a charm with no issues. Here's some pics:

 

Motor is in the car! Come on now! LOL

and thats a nice looking setup, but that wouldn't clear the crossmember in my 3rd gen, or most early gm swaps

-jason