My LS1 Miata build
#61
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I got my LS1 Miata fully functional (mostly…) and put the first 30 miles on the conversion just now. My exhaust is ridiculously low (picture like 2 inches at the center of the car) but that not really the fault of the kit but rather the way my exhaust was done. I plan on having it redone whenever I get time. So right now I have to avoid speed bumps, significant crest, large dust bunnies, etc… Hell, that makes this all the more fun right? I think so.
So tomorrow is the 5th Annual Georgia Tech Autoshow (www.gatechautoshow.com) and it’s been my goal to DRIVE my car to it ever since I started back in October. At first I though first of the year it would be done but that quickly changed when I didn’t have the body back from paint til then. Ever since then, I have come home (I’m a student at Gatech) nearly every weekend (fri-sun) and put in a solid 30-40 hours of work each one and now I can actually drive it! Woohoo. Anyways, any Atlanta locals are welcome to come to the show and check out my car. Its from 11-3pm. Our guest speaker is a GT Grad who works for Telsa Motors, the electric “lotus elise” makers. The speech is at 2pm.
Time to put my gauge cluster, center stack and console in…
So tomorrow is the 5th Annual Georgia Tech Autoshow (www.gatechautoshow.com) and it’s been my goal to DRIVE my car to it ever since I started back in October. At first I though first of the year it would be done but that quickly changed when I didn’t have the body back from paint til then. Ever since then, I have come home (I’m a student at Gatech) nearly every weekend (fri-sun) and put in a solid 30-40 hours of work each one and now I can actually drive it! Woohoo. Anyways, any Atlanta locals are welcome to come to the show and check out my car. Its from 11-3pm. Our guest speaker is a GT Grad who works for Telsa Motors, the electric “lotus elise” makers. The speech is at 2pm.
Time to put my gauge cluster, center stack and console in…
#64
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That thing must be a blast. Kudos on getting it done. My next door neighbor owns a Miata and we have been talking lately....car stuff.I gave him the link to this thread and next time I saw him he told me he could not believe the engine would fit in there. He was wowed.
#67
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Ok, i fixed the videos for any of you IE users and added a price list page under Completion. Everyone keeps asking me about prices so maybe this will answer most of the questions.
#68
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So I used my car clubs Traqmate data acquisition system to get a couple raw numbers this evening.
Keep in mind I only have 7/8 throttle as I have not modifed the throttle body cam (the pulley the throttle cable wraps around). I look at it as "training wheels" for learning how to drive with a ls1 miata...haha.
I need some more practice at launches (only have about 4 in the bag as is).
My best 0-60mph (very traction/driver limited): 4.75 secs
My 60-100mph time of 4.85secs best that of the C6 Z06 Road and Track tested (4.9secs 60-100mph). I am quite happy with that as that means I am faster than a Z06 once I get WOT....atleast from a rolling start.
My peak acceleration g's in 1st gear are 0.799 so far. Thats pretty good!
mph : seconds
0-10: 0.875
10-20: 0.625
20-30: 0.70
30-40: 0.65
40-50: 1.05
50-60: 0.86
60-70: 1.15
70-80: 1.16
80-90: 1.16
90-100: 1.375
see accompanying data charts:
Keep in mind I only have 7/8 throttle as I have not modifed the throttle body cam (the pulley the throttle cable wraps around). I look at it as "training wheels" for learning how to drive with a ls1 miata...haha.
I need some more practice at launches (only have about 4 in the bag as is).
My best 0-60mph (very traction/driver limited): 4.75 secs
My 60-100mph time of 4.85secs best that of the C6 Z06 Road and Track tested (4.9secs 60-100mph). I am quite happy with that as that means I am faster than a Z06 once I get WOT....atleast from a rolling start.
My peak acceleration g's in 1st gear are 0.799 so far. Thats pretty good!
mph : seconds
0-10: 0.875
10-20: 0.625
20-30: 0.70
30-40: 0.65
40-50: 1.05
50-60: 0.86
60-70: 1.15
70-80: 1.16
80-90: 1.16
90-100: 1.375
see accompanying data charts:
#69
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So I finally got a little "action" video today. Enjoy.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/N...nut_157371.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/N...nut_157371.htm
#70
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I uploaded the pictures of my air intake shield that I made. Its simple but has worked fine so far.
http://home.comcast.net/~npartist/engine_bay.html#7
http://home.comcast.net/~npartist/engine_bay.html#7
#71
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I have been down at Racing Concept's Shop the past couple days getting the new kit pieces installed and my car just generally looked over to insure everything is sound. They have used their experience with their car to make improvements to the kit. They have completely redone the front subframe and improved the frame rails/trans brace design and beefed up the rear diff mount. I am tired and not going to spend lots of time describing it ATM but here are some pics (also on the engine page of my site). More pics will come.
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Thanks Doc! Doc was awesome for staying up late to tune my car. I brought it to him after midnight last night and was more than happy to help me out. The car runs awesome!
Yes, the new kit ties the front subframe into the frame rail braces which are bolted horizontally through the frame rails AND vertically into the floor.
The reason for version 2 of the kit was to improve ground clearance, rid of bump steer and even further increase rigidity. The new kit definitely achieves all of those.
I have only driven the car about 2 miles as I am still in Florida and working on it. I should be returning to home late today and will get some more driving over the weekend.
Bump steer was very noticeable before but now is dare I say completely gone. The ground clearance in the front is now very close to the stock scrub line (with the exception of my current exhaust which is getting redone tues and wed). The exhaust can be routed up above the stock scrub line. The only part that sticks down any significant amount below the frame rails is the diff. It is probably 1.5 inches lower. The new kit's added tubes on the frame rails now have bolts that go both horizontal through the frame rails and vertically into the floor. I have pics of it but can't post them atm (i am "borrowing" wifi at a random apt complex in my truck...).
The car feel much more solid than it did before and it already felt a stiffer than stock. I am extremely happy that I not only have a lot more ground clearance but also no bump steer. I will get some pics of the new tie-rod to control alignment today. They are nearly parallel. I still plan on getting the r-package tie rod ends though as I may lower my car more. Right now I am 13.25 F and 13.75 R (I think).
Yes, the new kit ties the front subframe into the frame rail braces which are bolted horizontally through the frame rails AND vertically into the floor.
The reason for version 2 of the kit was to improve ground clearance, rid of bump steer and even further increase rigidity. The new kit definitely achieves all of those.
I have only driven the car about 2 miles as I am still in Florida and working on it. I should be returning to home late today and will get some more driving over the weekend.
Bump steer was very noticeable before but now is dare I say completely gone. The ground clearance in the front is now very close to the stock scrub line (with the exception of my current exhaust which is getting redone tues and wed). The exhaust can be routed up above the stock scrub line. The only part that sticks down any significant amount below the frame rails is the diff. It is probably 1.5 inches lower. The new kit's added tubes on the frame rails now have bolts that go both horizontal through the frame rails and vertically into the floor. I have pics of it but can't post them atm (i am "borrowing" wifi at a random apt complex in my truck...).
The car feel much more solid than it did before and it already felt a stiffer than stock. I am extremely happy that I not only have a lot more ground clearance but also no bump steer. I will get some pics of the new tie-rod to control alignment today. They are nearly parallel. I still plan on getting the r-package tie rod ends though as I may lower my car more. Right now I am 13.25 F and 13.75 R (I think).
#75
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The car is nearly stock miata smooth at cruise (no drivetrain vibrations, bump steer, etc). The only thing that still stick out is the transmission clunkiness but thats the way it come from GM. Right now I am still using the stock GM shifter which is about 6 inches higher than the center console Think but Dan is coming making a batch of short shifter and I am getting one. He is threading it to allow a stock miata shift ****.
I have a list of small things like the short shifter that are my to-do list and plan on getting them all completed over summer. They have been low on my priority list cause they are not needed but nice. That includes A/C, Dan is coming out with a kit option for it that uses the stock miata condenser/evaporator and the ls1 compressor with custom hard lines. My radiator is now available through dan for $250 (he makes no money on it) and he will probably be putting mounting tabs on it for the miata condenser so everything will just bolt up.
I have a list of small things like the short shifter that are my to-do list and plan on getting them all completed over summer. They have been low on my priority list cause they are not needed but nice. That includes A/C, Dan is coming out with a kit option for it that uses the stock miata condenser/evaporator and the ls1 compressor with custom hard lines. My radiator is now available through dan for $250 (he makes no money on it) and he will probably be putting mounting tabs on it for the miata condenser so everything will just bolt up.
#76
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I updated my site with the new kit pictures. I still have to take some more and post them. I also added a FAQ page.
Below are the new frame rail braces. The vertical bolts (with plates) are not installed in the pictures.
This is the beefed up rear diff mount. Check out how think that tube wall is!
Below are the new frame rail braces. The vertical bolts (with plates) are not installed in the pictures.
This is the beefed up rear diff mount. Check out how think that tube wall is!
#77
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Nathan,
Nice job on the install!
Question for you:
I have been thinking about doing this swap and am in the planning phase right now.
I plan on using the Racing Concepts kit into a NA Miata.
What suspension changes would you recomend? I notice you have coilovers installed but would the stock suspension be sufficient with the LS1 or is it too soft?
--Tony
Nice job on the install!
Question for you:
I have been thinking about doing this swap and am in the planning phase right now.
I plan on using the Racing Concepts kit into a NA Miata.
What suspension changes would you recomend? I notice you have coilovers installed but would the stock suspension be sufficient with the LS1 or is it too soft?
--Tony
#78
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The kit adds right around 180lbs according to RC (they weighed everything down to the bolts). Dan also said that its close to a 51/49 weight distribution, I have yet to corner weigh mine to verify.
I don't know if RC still runs the stock suspension but I know they did for a while atleast. It all depends on what you want to do with the car. If you want to drag race, stock suspension is fine as it helps with weight transfer. If you want to auto-x or track it, I would suggest going with something firmer but thats true of any miata.
Basically treat it as a "normal" miata with the exception that you probably want to be on the understeer side since throttle on oversteer will be pronounced. Right now I have 8/6kg F/R springs on my Ohlins. I plan on going to 10/6kg sometime in the future as that is a popular auto-x setup for miata's. I can't speak much about my handling yet since the first batch of the kit's front sway bar mounts are just making their way out of the powder coat shop this week.
I don't know if RC still runs the stock suspension but I know they did for a while atleast. It all depends on what you want to do with the car. If you want to drag race, stock suspension is fine as it helps with weight transfer. If you want to auto-x or track it, I would suggest going with something firmer but thats true of any miata.
Basically treat it as a "normal" miata with the exception that you probably want to be on the understeer side since throttle on oversteer will be pronounced. Right now I have 8/6kg F/R springs on my Ohlins. I plan on going to 10/6kg sometime in the future as that is a popular auto-x setup for miata's. I can't speak much about my handling yet since the first batch of the kit's front sway bar mounts are just making their way out of the powder coat shop this week.
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Basically treat it as a "normal" miata with the exception that you probably want to be on the understeer side since throttle on oversteer will be pronounced. Right now I have 8/6kg F/R springs on my Ohlins. I plan on going to 10/6kg sometime in the future as that is a popular auto-x setup for miata's. I can't speak much about my handling yet since the first batch of the kit's front sway bar mounts are just making their way out of the powder coat shop this week.
I plan on using the car as a weekend driver and do the occasional autox.
It was either this or a LSx Fox body Mustang as the next project.
But this sounds like it would be more fun to do.
Now the hunt for a good (and cheap) Miata donor is on.
#80
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Sounds good. Craigslists shows lots of sub $3k miata in FL. I suggest one that is close to stock with the exception of maybe suspension/brake upgrades which would come in handy. If you find one with a torsen diff, you can make about $1000 selling that to auto-x miata guys ($7-800 for diff alone but for a "torsen swap" which includes the axles and driveshaft you can get about $1000). I have the prices I sold my stuff for on my site.
If you want a second opinion on a car or need some miata knowledge, feel free to contact me.
If you want a second opinion on a car or need some miata knowledge, feel free to contact me.