Motor Position 68 Cutlass LS1/A4 HELP!
#1
Staging Lane
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Motor Position 68 Cutlass LS1/A4 HELP!
Motor Position 68 Cutlass LS1/A4.
I finally got to test fit my LS1/A4 this weekend and find myself stuck.
I was thinking that with the right motor position it would fit using the F body alternator and oil pan without notching the frame for the pan. I am not using AC.
Positioning the motor this weekend I can't see how this will fit without either cuting up the trans tunnel to move the tranny up or taking a couple of inches out of the frame to move the motor and tranny forward.
If I notch the fame there will then be an interference with the alternator at the steering gear. Is there an inexpensive way to move the alternator?
I see most of you chevelle guys are running M6 trannies, so I'm not sure if you are help here..
Who is running this arrangement in a similar car that I can compare notes with?
Eric.
I finally got to test fit my LS1/A4 this weekend and find myself stuck.
I was thinking that with the right motor position it would fit using the F body alternator and oil pan without notching the frame for the pan. I am not using AC.
Positioning the motor this weekend I can't see how this will fit without either cuting up the trans tunnel to move the tranny up or taking a couple of inches out of the frame to move the motor and tranny forward.
If I notch the fame there will then be an interference with the alternator at the steering gear. Is there an inexpensive way to move the alternator?
I see most of you chevelle guys are running M6 trannies, so I'm not sure if you are help here..
Who is running this arrangement in a similar car that I can compare notes with?
Eric.
#4
Staging Lane
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I am installing the motor and trans independantly. Trans is blocked up to close to where it needs to be.
With the motor positioned so that the notch of the pan is at the cross member the tranny is about 2" too low due to the trans tunnel.
Someone could really help by letting me know:
1) The dimensison from the top tranny bolt to the top of the fire wall. This would establish elevation
2) How far into the engine bay the trans sits off fire wall this would establish fron to back location
With the motor positioned so that the notch of the pan is at the cross member the tranny is about 2" too low due to the trans tunnel.
Someone could really help by letting me know:
1) The dimensison from the top tranny bolt to the top of the fire wall. This would establish elevation
2) How far into the engine bay the trans sits off fire wall this would establish fron to back location
#5
In my 1965 cutlass I installed the trans & engine together. No way would a f-body pan fit my car. The modified S&P pan barely fits and it has maybe 3 inchs cut out of the oil pan at the cross member. In my case the engine is mounted forward of were most of the chevelles seem to be. I had a mechanical throttle linkage on my firewall so I had to clear that. You can see my set up in my 65 ls1-f85 project thread. I hit the steering box but my a/c is 3 inches infront of the cross frame no issues there. For the altenator I designed and had my own bracket made to relocate it to the other side above the a/c unit. Good luck
#6
TECH Senior Member
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I am using a CTS-V oil pan on my swap.. I had tried to use a F-Body.. and was able to get it in with a shoe horn..!.. but I didn't like the tight clearance around the x-member.. and went with the CTS-V after that. Have you looked into the CTS-V or LH8 pan ? They do hang about 1"+ below the x-member, but if your not lowering it. then no problem.
I am using BRP style plate and have move my Frame mount so that it sit right were it needed to be.. just enough round around the Steering box and from the firewall. I am usig a T56.. I would put the engine where it needs to and if the Trans has to move to match up.. then so be it. it is easy to modify the Trans cross member mounting.
And yes.. the OEM F-Body alternator can be a problem if you move the engine to far forward and keep it low.. but you can only lower the engine some much before the steering becomes a problem anyway.
You can try using Vette accessories, the alternator and steering pump are higher.
I am using BRP style plate and have move my Frame mount so that it sit right were it needed to be.. just enough round around the Steering box and from the firewall. I am usig a T56.. I would put the engine where it needs to and if the Trans has to move to match up.. then so be it. it is easy to modify the Trans cross member mounting.
And yes.. the OEM F-Body alternator can be a problem if you move the engine to far forward and keep it low.. but you can only lower the engine some much before the steering becomes a problem anyway.
You can try using Vette accessories, the alternator and steering pump are higher.
#7
Staging Lane
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I just broke down and ordered the LH8 pan and full mount kit from Phil at BRP. I don't thnk I would be able to get the engine mounted low enough with the mount set-up I have assembled so far. $250 for a pan seems better than cutting up my frame.
Phil was good to work with on the phone, lets hope it fits as he says. The oil pan is out of stock for a couple of weeks but the mount kit should be to me by weeks end. I can continue to mock the motor position with the oil pan off.
Thanks.
Phil was good to work with on the phone, lets hope it fits as he says. The oil pan is out of stock for a couple of weeks but the mount kit should be to me by weeks end. I can continue to mock the motor position with the oil pan off.
Thanks.