http://www.skybeamsearchlight.com/Frame/IMG_1414.jpg

http://www.skybeamsearchlight.com/Frame/IMG_1412.jpg

Got the steering components sway bar and engine mounted.

Waiting for a few parts such as a crankshaft dowel and starter bolts, brake lines, fuel lines.

Got the new tank from parts place, it looks very nice.

In the mean time working on odds and ends to finish this up. Can't wait until it goes to the body shop to get finished up.

Thanks for everyones help. I will be posting more pictures as progress goes on.

 

Looking good.. keep up the great work.. and keep the pictures coming..

 

Thanks for the support especially you Brian. I am very thankful that there have been several others before me that have done this swap. Not to mention the aftermarket for A body cars. Could you image fabricating everything from scratch?

 

Brake Lines, Fuel Lines that is about all that is left before it goes back to the body shop.

Got everything together and played around with the exhaust pipes. Have decided to let the muffler shop weld everything together since I don't have the ability to put the flanges like they do.

 

what fuel tank did you get?

 

The one from Parts Place that is just like the stock unit but has a in tank pump.

There are other vendors that have it as well.

 

i tried to pull up their site and its timing out

i've never heard of this tank, how much do they run?

 

$595 plus shipping

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ight=tank+body

Here is the thread. I was going to do a stainless tank but couldn't justify it. Almost twice as much.

 

Finally got many of the parts I was waiting on. Had to put in offset dowel pins to get the run out on the bellhousing below the recommended .005.
Tasks to finish up.

Run 3/8 Hard Fuel Line with quick disconnect ends and the vetter filter/regulator

Have the vette power steering hose modified to fit my chevelle steering box by the hydraulic shop.

Get e-brake cables hooked up. Need a different length main cable because of the TKO.

After these tasks are completed it is frame back to the body shop. (Was supposed to be back at the begining of June, am shooting before August 1st.)

Progress is slow but it is done correctly. Maybe I will have the whole car completed for next summer.

 

Looks very nice! Seeing other people projects make me want to get back to work on mine.

Ron

 

Ben,

Everything is looking good. Is that a stock diameter power steering pulley?

Andrew

 

As far as I know that is the stock power steering pulley. This is the corvette pulley system.

 

My Corvette pulley is solid, not spoked like that. I am a little worried about the angle of your engine. Seems like the transmission is pointing down too much. If your car will be lowered from stock you will have some major driveline alignment issues.

Andrew

 

Are you looking at past pictures in my image shack or past posts? If so I have raised the rear of the transmission at least 2" in the back. I also have a poly transmission mount that will add at least another inch over the rubber one if I change that out.

I also have a spacer I made while running the transmission behind the big chevy before that is not being used.

I actually was pondering this myself today. Worst case scenario I can cut and relocate the perch on the cross member a second time. Better to get it right now.

Here is the pictures of how the engine sits. The car is lowered 1" with springs. I won't ever go lower than this.

 

After Andrew's comments about the driveline and my own opinion I raised up the rear of the transmission.

I changed from the stock rubber mount to a poly one and used a spacer I had made from the previous setup.

It turned out well as the pictures show. Also got the power steering lines completed. Now just waiting to get the hard fuel line back from the fabrication shop. I had them crimp quick disconnect barbs on each end and on the fuel tank I am using.

When I get those parts back I will mount the Fuel filler/regulator and send it back to the body shop. Hooray!

 

Looks good Ben. Just keep in mind that now you will have to worry about the slip yoke hitting the floor pan on the body.

This whole issue is one of those "dirty little secrets" that not many people talk about. A-bodies start getting into all kinds of driveline issues when they are lowered. Since your body is off the frame, now is the time to start thinking about modifying your transmission and driveshaft tunnel to give you more room.

Ben, if you are looking for a good body guy, my friend Brian, who did my car, now lives in Lincoln. PM me if you want his contact information.

Andrew

 

I agree with Andrew.. If you can, You should try and drop the body back on the frame to see what mod's you will need (if any) to the Firewal and Trans Tunnel.

I would also hold off making any final adjustments to the trans crossmember until you have all of the weight on the ground to check how the suspension will take the different load and where it will finally sit. Then check and adjust the Engine/trans angle.

One hint.. if you can't get under the car with it on the ground to measure the angle.. just measure it at the Crank/pully for the 2-5* tilt.. was it is in direct line with your Trans output shaft and should measure the same.

 

If I was building a car from scratch again, I would make the engine level with the frame.

Andrew

 

tja42853 with his TKO and LS3 has done what I am going to do with the body.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hevelle&page=5

That is the body shops job with my oversight, I won't be doing that metal work for the floor.

The only thing now is that with the rear of the transmission so high the end collector on the headers is actually pointing up instead of level. So I don't think I want to raise the rear of the transmission up any higher.

Thanks for your help guys!

 

I would be open to having your friend Brian do the work but I already have a body shop lined up, they are actually storing the body and have for a while now. Thanks for the lead though.