programing an msd 6010 box
#22
TECH Regular
iTrader: (12)
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team39763
thanks for the heads up on the new software. i kinda fell off the ls1 band wagon after i found out my 3rd gear in my t56 was toast.
i managed to get my usb cable to work!!! i installed the new msd software V.3.18 i also found out my usb cable was disabled in the device manager. all i did was enable it, and switch my msd software to com port 4. keyed the ignition and the graph came to life!!!
i was running pill #1 for the longest. man 26* at idle is a lot of timing. i knocked it down to 17* from 0-1000 then ramped the timing up to 29* total at 3000. im yet to drive it but it did smooth out the idle. im excited to drive it while my dad watches the computer screen.
next goody to buy is a FAST dual O2 wideband for my air fuel ratio.
also my autometer tach is spot on with the computers tach.
thanks for the heads up on the new software. i kinda fell off the ls1 band wagon after i found out my 3rd gear in my t56 was toast.
i managed to get my usb cable to work!!! i installed the new msd software V.3.18 i also found out my usb cable was disabled in the device manager. all i did was enable it, and switch my msd software to com port 4. keyed the ignition and the graph came to life!!!
i was running pill #1 for the longest. man 26* at idle is a lot of timing. i knocked it down to 17* from 0-1000 then ramped the timing up to 29* total at 3000. im yet to drive it but it did smooth out the idle. im excited to drive it while my dad watches the computer screen.
next goody to buy is a FAST dual O2 wideband for my air fuel ratio.
also my autometer tach is spot on with the computers tach.
#23
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How did you set it up? Mine still reads dead wrong. It reads correct when I drive normal, but when racing, it reads slow and it hit the 6800rpm rev limit before the 5500rpm shiftlight comes on. The directions say set it as a 4cyl, but it read 800rpm off after that, so I set it to 6cyl(only 300 off).
#25
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (10)
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How did you set it up? Mine still reads dead wrong. It reads correct when I drive normal, but when racing, it reads slow and it hit the 6800rpm rev limit before the 5500rpm shiftlight comes on. The directions say set it as a 4cyl, but it read 800rpm off after that, so I set it to 6cyl(only 300 off).
an ls1 setting would be incorrect.
#26
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I got an autometer phantom. When I first got my truck going, I hadn't touched the settings. It would read pretty close until I went WOT, then it would read really wrong.
#27
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i havent hooked up my tach yet, but i think i ran a yellow wire inside from the msd box for the sig
i had the car at the cruise down at the beach last weekend, took my laptop and did some recurving-seems to like a lot of timing to get going, really inproves off idle, i guess because of the long runners to the head (vic jr intake) also needed a real agress. pump cam-still trying to understand the map, but think i got it, was getting confused with vac vs. pressure
engine is a little lean, plugs seem to conflict with the lc-1 readings, gonna recalibrate the lc-1, but rely on the plug readings more
i switched my converter to the high stall position, nailed it and blew the tires off thru 1st & 2nd, so its starting to make some power, lol
i had the car at the cruise down at the beach last weekend, took my laptop and did some recurving-seems to like a lot of timing to get going, really inproves off idle, i guess because of the long runners to the head (vic jr intake) also needed a real agress. pump cam-still trying to understand the map, but think i got it, was getting confused with vac vs. pressure
engine is a little lean, plugs seem to conflict with the lc-1 readings, gonna recalibrate the lc-1, but rely on the plug readings more
i switched my converter to the high stall position, nailed it and blew the tires off thru 1st & 2nd, so its starting to make some power, lol
#30
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yea, its an old school setup from BOP in the 60's, they had a dual stall converter, to get the heavy boats moving-guys adapted it to performance setups, mine is 1300/3000, uses's a diff pump and input shaft, sol. to redirect fluid, alter the fins in the converter-not sure how much power it can take, but some of the buick/pontiac guys have run 800 hp with them-they launch in the hi stall mode, then switch to low stall, kind of like the turbo buick guys were locking up their converters after launch
i havent had a chance to really play with it yet, but in slow traffic, hi stall makes it great inching along, low stall it wont hardley burn the tires, but hi stall fries them good, its sort of a fix untill i install my 4l80e, if ever. lol
i havent had a chance to really play with it yet, but in slow traffic, hi stall makes it great inching along, low stall it wont hardley burn the tires, but hi stall fries them good, its sort of a fix untill i install my 4l80e, if ever. lol
#32
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hey i just saw your car in super chevy, man congrats on the ink. anyway, i was thinging of going blow through, and your car motivated me to definitely go this route. my motor is also 6.0 with 317 heads, though i had mine ported out.
#35
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Q#1 : You have to tell the msd 6010 that you are using a 2 bar map sensor. thats what I did and it works perfectly fine (I did use the msd 2 bar map sensor)
Q#2 : The msd 6010 will run fine without any pill installed. with no pill installed it will go back to the last fill it was running. So for ex. if you pull the #1 pill, it will load up next time using the #1 pill curve. Now, when you custom tailor a spark table and load it into the 6010, you can NOT have a pill installed, the pills always take priority and you would lose your custom curve.
Q#3: It might run with the map sensor disconnected, no sure why you would do this though.
I would advise against the distributor conversion. the 6010 has been the best single part I have bought for my project hands down. Have had no problem with it and it seems to be handling boost just fine, and it was only $300!!!!! and I get to use coil on plug technology, which from everything I have heard the GM coils and quite good.
Here is a screenshoot of my timing curves (I have looked for others but no one seems to want to post them
and I know others are out there using the 6010 for boost)
I might add alittle timing on the RPM curve around idle and 1000rpm, make the graph more convex towards 15-16* instead of the little concave dip near 1000rpm.
stock 5.3, mpt70, ~6psi boost
Q#2 : The msd 6010 will run fine without any pill installed. with no pill installed it will go back to the last fill it was running. So for ex. if you pull the #1 pill, it will load up next time using the #1 pill curve. Now, when you custom tailor a spark table and load it into the 6010, you can NOT have a pill installed, the pills always take priority and you would lose your custom curve.
Q#3: It might run with the map sensor disconnected, no sure why you would do this though.
I would advise against the distributor conversion. the 6010 has been the best single part I have bought for my project hands down. Have had no problem with it and it seems to be handling boost just fine, and it was only $300!!!!! and I get to use coil on plug technology, which from everything I have heard the GM coils and quite good.
Here is a screenshoot of my timing curves (I have looked for others but no one seems to want to post them
![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
I might add alittle timing on the RPM curve around idle and 1000rpm, make the graph more convex towards 15-16* instead of the little concave dip near 1000rpm.
stock 5.3, mpt70, ~6psi boost
![](http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r109/v8bug/turbotiming-1.jpg)