this is gonna be a chor for me, i can see that now, with my lack of computer skills, lol
not being to visually "see" whats going on (like with a timing light) is pretty hard
my combo is a 69 chevelle, 6.0 with a z06 cam, forged inners, 317 heads,
d1sc procharger, 8 rib conversion-i am starting out with a carb, as i have had a few procharged blowthru cars, so i am familar with them
the car fired right up, using the #4 chip-i had an ls6 fi intake, and i used the map sensor from it-i since switched to a 2 bar map sensor, and switched to the #6 chip, as i thought it needed more timing, untill i could custom tune with the laptop
question #1-just using the supplied chips, does it "see" the map sensor, or is that something it has to be told to do-i thought the motor sounded clean when i first fired it, and wondering if switching to a diff map sensor, it is affecting it (i have an lc-1, so i can monitor the afr's)

question #2-will the car start w/o a chip, because it looks like the chip has to be rem. for any laptop changes to occure

Question #3-will it run with the mad sensor disc.-i almost think i have to much advance cruising, although i have not driven it much
i have to sort of assume driveability is ign. related, as i used this carb on a previous procharged engine, and it ran ok, i just did some minor adjustments for the smaller engine
sorry for the long post, the distributer conversion is looking better all the time, lol
thanks

 

I dont think the procharger will like as much timing as the pills will have. I didnt run the map sensor, yes i think it will run without a pill if i remember right. thats really all the help i can give.

 

you can run a 2-bar map sensor, then you can set it up so when the boost comes on it will take away timing,, none of the chips will work for your combination

install the msd software and set up your main timing table then set up the vacuum portion of the software based off of your map readings under vacuum and boost, there is a switch selection for whatever map sensor you end up using

 

i just used the chips for startup, after talking to a guy at MSD, i found a major problem, i fired it up with a 1 bar map and #3 chip, then installed #6 chip, after installing 2 bar map, thinking it sounded like it needed more timing-the msd box from the factory is set for 1 bar map, so it didnt like the 2 bar, i switched back to the 1 bar and #3 chip to drive it back from my buddys house where we did the headliner, much better-last night i played with the msd program, got a little comfortable with it, the tech from msd said to call him with my laptop on, he will walk me thru programing it, pretty cool he's gonna take the time to do that-he just doesnt know what he's in for, lol

 

with no pill, it defualts to the #3 pill, unless youve programmed it.

can you run a 6010 without a map sensor? id sure like to get rid of it.

 

why not just set the MAP table to zero effectively eliminating the MAP. But why would you want to disable it? just curious..

 

man, im about a heartbeat away from pulling this ls motor out and putting something in with a distributer-i knew dealing with a f&%^$#%g computer would be a real problem for me-it keeps eating plugs, i am leaning on trying another carb, but this one ran perfect on my other blowthru car (of course, it had a distributer) even with a blower, a normal timing setup should at least run ok in a non boosted (idle, low speed) effort
i have 19 lbs vacume at an idle, but afr's are rich, my guess is maybe the edelbrock single plane intake is part of the cause (i sure cant see what the timing is doing) what pisses me off is i have had over 10 blower cars, all ran good out of the gate, ALL had distributers, lol-i used to tinker with the dist., weld up the advance limits, etc, make them work-i tried to hook up to my 6010 with the laptop (windows vista??) nothing happens
in the timing graph with the msd insts., (example) it shows 0 rpms, 12 deg-everytime i try to plot a curve, which i cant relate to a dist., it starts at 0 degs, i cant change it-i need a 12 year old to show me what to do-yea, im pissed, months of bodywork, painting, fabing, engine building, etc, and it comes down to making it run with a stupid computer, and im dead in the water

 

post your msd file here so we can look at it,,



also you keep saying that you can not see what the timing is doing,, if you use a laptop with the msd software you can watch your timing live on your laptop,, it will also show you your vacuum/boost pressure and timing

so until you get your laptop to link up with your msd6010 box there isnt much anyone can do to help you

i would ditch the vista and use a laptop with win200 or xp, my tuning laptop came with vista on it and i realized most of my software would not work with vista so i took vista off my laptop and installed XP, now it works great with all the auto tuning type software

so get the laptop to hook up to the 6010 box, save youe file and post it for us to see.

 

my new vista laptop hates the usb/serial cable i bought, so no custom tuning on my box as of yet.

im running a large cam (MS3), ported heads, mighty demon 750, and a victor jr intake.

my car runs awesome on the #1 pill. i didnt even adjust the carb, just threw it on and drove it. its a tad bit rich but exhibits none of the problems most guys talk about when using a carb.

 

I have not got mine running yet but I have done an *** load of research already and have my 6010 box mounted. First thing you have to do when you have windows vista (like I do) is buy the correct serial to usb adapter. The part number and stuff is on msd's website. Second, you have to install the software for the serial to usb adapter before you install the msd software or you can have problems. Somebody in this thread asked if you have to use a map sensor the answer is no. In this guys case he does as it will allow the boost reference for the timing to retard. If you know how to set up a distributor than this should be easy for you . If you like 28 deg locked out (no vacu. adv. ) then set it up like that , then you should be able to use the boost reference to pull out how ever many degrees you want per pound of boost. Say you want 2 deg per pound and you are running 28 total then at 5psi it should pull out ten degrees putting you at total of 18. I think this makes sense , if not I hope you at least see my point.

 

as above until you get the msd box talking to the laptop its pointless worrying. once its hooked up the software will show that a 6010 device is present, and away you go.
its very easy to program, its a series of dots on a line. drag and drop it up/down etc to the point you want, ie 18 deg at 1500rpm, 2nd point 23 deg at 2500rpm etc etc. when you are happy let it transfer the data to the msd box and thats it. start the car and you can watch the timing /rpm/batt voltage etc all live.
save any changes to the pc under a new file name as well as the msd box so you have a copy each time you make changes.

 

Also anothe thing that I thought of is it's probably eating plugs because all of the chips that come with the box have a total of 36 deg of timing total in them. This is from what I was told , so you make check with msd to make sure. That would be a ton of timing on a procharged car...

 

agreed, the stock pills have a lot of timing. if you leave one in it overides anything you have programmed in the msd software. take out the pill if its there.

 

i think we hit on the plug problem, i hope-i called Kevin @ CSU carbs, i have him build them for me on the blowthrus-even though this isnt one of his, just one i am using temp., he gave me some great advice-i told him it had 19 lbs of vacume at idle, and he imead. said your prob pulling fuel out of the carb, making it to rich-then i got to thinking, when i first fired this thing, it ran great, something changed, and i think i know what-the p/b's didnt work, and when i read the vacume at the booster, it was only 10 lbs-i had tee'ed into the nipple on the d/s v/c, using that as a pcv valve setup, and it was robbing vacume from the brakes, plus making a lean condition-i plugged the tee, and restored vac. to the brakes, but also took away a lean condition, now the carb needs to be leaned, prob by way of the idle air bleeds, which i will try-i figuered the chips should have allowed it to at least run decent temp, untill i could get it mapped, and since the carb ran well on the other motor, i was blaming the msd, now maybe not-well see now

 

Well , good luck, and if the problem persists remember the other stuff that could be a problem too.

 

I think there is a version of the software that's compatible with Vista. I downloaded it onto my in-law's laptop and I'm running the CD version on my computer.

 

i dont have a laptop. can you do that on the 7550 handheld controller?
as for getting rid of it. i have a 5000 converter, and its more of a track car than street, though i get groceries in it more than i take it to the track right now.
just really dont see a need for it if i can unhook it and everything else be happy.

 

To: forcd ind. Don't know if this will help, but I too was used to working with distributors and I really wanted to "see" what my MSD 6010 box was doing. I solved the problem by marking my crank pully for TDC and degreeing it from TDC to 50* advanced. You don't want to make it permanent because the crank pulley, I've been told, is not keyed. I used a positive stop to find TDC just like you would to degree a cam. Mine is homemade, but you can buy them from Jeg's or Summit,and in case some don't know, this can be done easily without pulling the heads or the crank pulley. I measured the diameter of the pulley and then figured the circumference. I then divided this length by 360 to get the width of a degree and then used that times 10 or 5 or what ever I wanted to mark. After I found TDC on the pulley, I used a piece of masking tape on the center (wide) part of the pulley,and then used a divider to mark it (clockwise, don't forget). After I marked it, I used a very sharp knife to cut slits every 10* and a slit half way across at 35*. I then used an artist brush (kid's little paint brush) to paint the slits with white paint. Pull off tape and you have something you can see with timing light. You also have to make a pointer or tab on the front cover or block. Obviously, this has to be made when you are finding TDC with your positive stop. I made mine with a small strap of 16 guage metal fastened to the lower two bolts on the passenger side of the water pump. You can pretty much put it anywhere that you can see it easily, even underneath I suppose, as long as you use it to find TDC. This may sound complicated, but it is actually very simple, especially to anyone who understands how to degree a cam. While degreeing the crank pulley this way is probably not perfect, it is close enough to use your timing light and actually "see" what your MSD box is doing, or for that matter, not doing!

 

i rigged my desk top up in the car and got the box to work. boy was that fun. i was considering junking windows vista and installing windows xp on my lap top. i hate vista.

 

i called msd today, got hold of a tech named Peter-this guy was great-he walked me thru the whole thing, got my laptop so it would work with the 6010 box(i have vista, and the serial port/usb adapter) i moved the timing around but it made no diff in how it ran, so i have pretty much ruled out the timing as the cause this thing runs like crap